Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
anchor with the Dome of the Great Church, bearing about South in 7, 6, or
5 fathoms water, about 1 1/2 or 2 miles from the Shore; and nearer you
cannot come with Large Ships, by reason of a Mud bank which lines all the
Shore of the Bay. The ground that you Anchor in is of such a nature that
the Anchors buries themselves so deep that it is with difficulty they are
got out; for this reason Ships always lays at Single Anchor, being in no
manner of danger of fouling them. You lay apparently open to the winds
from the North-West to the East-North-East; but the Sea that is caused by
these winds is a good deal broke before it reaches the Road by the small
Islands and Shoals without. These Shoals have all of them either Buoys or
Beacons upon them; but if these Guides should be moved, there is a very
good Chart of this Bay and the Coast of Java as far as the Straits of
Sunda, bound up in the English East India Pilot, sold by Mount & Page. In
this Chart everything seems to be very accurately delineated.
Fresh water and wood for fuel must be purchased here. The water is put on
board the Ship in the Road at a Spanish Dollar, or 5 shillings a Leager,
containing 150 Gallons; but if sent to Onrust, which is one League from
the Road, it cost a Duccatoon, or 6 shillings 8 pence. The supplying
shipping with water, especially Foreigners, is a perquisite of the
Commodore, who is always an Officer in the State's Service, but acts here
under the Company. He takes care to tell you that the Water is very good,
and will keep sweet at Sea; whereas everybody else tells you that it is
not so.
Be this as it will, Batavia is certainly a place that Europeans need not
covet to go to; but if necessity obliges them, they will do well to make
their stay as short as possible, otherwise they will soon feel the
effects of the unwholesome air of Batavia, which, I firmly believe, is
the Death of more Europeans than any other place upon the Globe of the
same extent. Such, at least, is my opinion of it, which is founded on
facts. We came in here with as healthy a Ship's Company as need go to
Sea, and after a stay of not quite 3 months left it in the condition of
an Hospital Ship, besides the loss of 7 men; and yet all the Dutch
Captains I had an opportunity to converse with said that we had been very
lucky, and wondered that we had not lost half our people in that time.*
(* Batavia bears an evil reputation for health to this day; but it must
be remembered that the Endeavour lay there during the rainy or most
unhealthy season.)
CHAPTER 10. BATAVIA TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
[December 1770.]
THURSDAY, 27th. Moderate breezes at West and North-West, with fair
weather. At 6 a.m. weighed, and stood out to Sea; at Noon the Island of
Edam bore North by East, distant 3 miles.
Friday, 28th. Winds variable between the North and West. At 6 in the
Evening anchored in 13 fathoms, Edam Island bearing East, distant 1 1/2
miles. At day light in the morning weighed again, and keept plying to
windward between Edam and Duffin's Island, but gained very little owing
to the variableness of the winds.
Saturday, 29th. In the P.M. anchored in 12 fathoms water in the Evening
until daylight, when we got again under Sail, with the wind at
West-South-West, and stood out North-West for the Thousand Islands.
Before noon the wind veer'd to North-West, and we endeavour'd to turn
through between Pulo Pare and Wapping Island.
Sunday, 30th. After making a short trip to the North-East, we tacked, and
weather'd Pulo Pare, and stood in for the Main, having the wind at
North-West, a fresh breeze. We fetched Maneaters Island (a small island
laying under the Main midway between Batavia and Bantam) after making a
trip to the North-East, and finding that we lost ground, we stood in
shore again and anchored in 13 fathoms, the above mentioned Island
bearing South-West by West, distant 1 mile, and in one with Bantam Hill.
At 7 A.M. weighed, with the wind at West-South-West, and stood to the
North-West, and weather'd Wapping Island, having the current in our
favour.
Monday, 31st. At 1 P.M. the wind veer'd to the Northward; we tack and
stood to the Westward, and weather'd Pulo Baby. In the Evening Anchor'd
between this Island and Bantam Bay, the Island bearing North, distant 2
miles, and Bantam Point West; at 5 a.m. weighed with the wind at West by
South, which afterwards proved variable; at noon Bantam Point South-West
1/2 West, distant 3 Leagues.
JANUARY, 1771.
Tuesday, 1st. In the P.M. stood over for the Sumatra Shore, having the
wind at South-South-West, a fresh breeze, and the current in our favour;
but this last shifted and set to the Eastward in the Evening, and obliged
us to Anchor in 30 fathoms, under the Islands which lay off Verekens
point, which point constitutes the narrowest part of the Straits of
Sunda. Here we found the current set to the South-West the most part of
the night; at 5 a.m. weigh'd with the wind at North-West, and stood to
the South-West between the Island Thwart-the-way and Sumatra; the wind
soon after coming to the westward we stood over for the Java Shore. At
noon the South point of Peper Bay bore South-West by South, and Anger
Point North-East 1/2 East, distant 2 Leagues; tacked and stood to the
North-West.
Wednesday, 2nd. First and middle parts fresh breezes at South-West, and
fair the remainder, squally with rain; plying to windward between
Cracatoa and the Java shore without gaining anything.
Thursday, 3rd. In the P.M. had it very squally, with heavy showers of
rain; at 1/2 past 7 anchor'd in 19 fathoms, Cracatoa Island South-West,
distance 3 Leagues. In the morning came to sail, having very squally
variable weather; at Noon Cracatoa West 2 Leagues.
Friday, 4th. Most part of these 24 hours squally, rainy weather, winds
variable between the North-North-West and South-South-West; at 5 p.m.
anchor'd in 28 fathoms water, Cracatoa West, distant 3 miles. Some time
after the wind veer'd to North-West, with which we got under sail, but
the wind dying away we advanced but little to the South-West before noon,
at which time Princes Island bore South-West, distance 8 or 9 Leagues.
Saturday, 5th. Had fresh breezes at South-West, with squally, rainy
weather until the evening, when it clear up, and the wind veer'd to South
and South-East, with which we stood to the South-West all night. In the
morning the wind veer'd to North-East, which was still in our favour; at
noon Princes Island bore West 1/2 South, distant 3 Leagues.
[At Anchor. Princes Island, Sunda Strait.]
Sunday, 6th. At 3 o'clock in the P.M. anchor'd under the South-East side
of Princes Island in 18 fathoms water, in order to recruite our wood and
water, and to procure refreshments for the people, which are now in a
much worse state of health than when we left Batavia. After coming to an
anchor I went on shore to look at the watering place, and to speak with
the Natives, some of whom were upon the Beach. I found the watering place
convenient, and the water to all appearance good, Provided proper care is
taken in the filling of it. The Natives seemed inclined to supply us with
Turtle, Fowls, etc.; Articles that I intended laying in as great a stock
as possible for the benefit of the Sick, and to suffer every one to
purchase what they pleased for themselves, as I found these people as
easy to traffick with as Europeans. In the morning sent the Gunner ashore
with some hands to fill water, while others were empboy'd putting the
whole to rights, sending on shore Empty Casks, etc. Served Turtle to the
Ship's Company. Yesterday was the only Salt meat day they have had since
our arrival at Java, which is now near 4 months.
Monday, 7th. From this day till Monday 14th we were employ'd wooding and
watering, being frequently interrupted by heavy rains. Having now
compleated both we hoisted in the Long boat, and made ready to put to
Sea, having on board a pretty good stock of refreshments, which we
purchased of the natives, such as Turtle, Fowls, Fish, two species of
Deer, one about as big as a small sheep, the other no bigger than a
Rabbit; both sorts eat very well, but are only for present use, as they
seldom lived above 24 hours in our possession. We likewise got fruit of
several sorts, such as Cocoa Nutts, plantains, Limes, etc. The Trade on
our part was carried on chiefly with money (Spanish Dollars); the natives
set but little value upon any thing else. Such of our people as had not
this Article traded with Old Shirts, etc., at a great disadvantage.
[Batavia to Capetown.]
Tuesday, 15th. Had variable light airs of wind, with which we could not
get under sail until the morning, when we weighed with a light breeze at
North-East, which was soon succeeded by a calm.
Wednesday, 16th. Had it calm all P.M., which at 5 o'clock obliged us to
Anchor under the South Point of Princes Island, the said Point bearing
South-West by West, distance 2 miles. At 8 o'clock in the A.M. a light
breeze sprung up at North, with which we weigh'd and stood out to Sea. At
noon Java Head bore South-East by South, distance 2 Leagues, and the West
Point of Princes Island North-North-West, distance 5 Leagues; Latitude
Observed 6 degrees 45 minutes South. Java Head, from which I take my
departure, lies in the Latitude of 6 degrees 49 minutes South, and
Longitude 255 degrees 12 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich,
deduced from several Astronomical Observations made at Batavia by the
Reverend Mr. Mohr.* (* The true longitude of Java Head is 254 degrees 49
minutes West.)
Thursday, 17th. Little wind and fair at 6 p.m. Java head bore
East-North-East, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; at 6 a.m. it bore
North-North-East, 12 Leagues. Wind North-East; course South 27 degrees 15
minutes West; distance 48 miles; latitude 7 degrees 32 minutes South;
longitude 255 degrees 35 minutes West.
Friday, 18th. Light Airs and Calms, with Showers of Rain. Wind Variable;
course South-West 1/2 South; distance 30 miles; latitude 7 degrees 55
minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 54 minutes West.
Saturday, 19th. For the most part of these 24 hours had little wind and
fair weather. Wind Westerly; course South 3 degrees East; distance 53
miles; latitude 8 degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 51
minutes West.
Sunday, 20th. Light Airs and Calms, with some Showers of Rain. Saw 2 Sail
in the North-West Quarter standing to the South-West; one of them shew'd
Dutch Colours. Wind North Westerly; course South 44 degrees West;
distance 36 miles; latitude 9 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 256
degrees 15 minutes West.
Monday, 21st. First part Little wind, the remainder a Gentle breeze; the
2 Sail in sight. Wind Easterly; course South 57 degrees West; distance 58
miles; latitude 9 degrees 46 minutes South; longitude 257 degrees 5
minutes West.
Tuesday, 22nd. Little wind and fair weather. Wind South-Westerly; course
North 10 degrees West; distance 17 miles; latitude 9 degrees 29 minutes
South; longitude 257 degrees 8 minutes West.
Wednesday, 23rd. Ditto weather; a swell from the Southward, and which we
have had ever since we left the Straits of Sunda. Wind Ditto; course East
Southerly; distance 18 miles; latitude 9 degrees 30 minutes South;
longitude 256 degrees 50 minutes West.
Thursday, 24th. First part Light Airs, the remainder Calm. In the A.M.
died John Trusslove, Corporal of Marines, a man much esteem'd by every
body on board. Many of our people at this time lay dangerously ill of
Fevers and Fluxes. We are inclinable to attribute this to the water we
took in at Princes Island, and have put lime into the Casks in order to
purifie it. Wind South-West by South to South-South-East; course South;
distance 4 miles; latitude 9 degrees 34 minutes South; longitude 256
degrees 50 minutes West.