Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
proved to be the Houghton Indiaman from Bengal. In the A.M. it fell
moderate, and we began to water the Ship.
Tuesday, 19th. Variable Gentle breezes. All this day employ'd repairing
Sails, Rigging, Watering, etc.
Wednesday, 20th. In the P.M. Sail'd the Houghton Indiaman, who saluted us
with 11 Guns, which Complement we returned; this Ship, during her stay in
India, lost by sickness between 30 and 40 men, and had at this time a
good many down with the Scurvey. Other Ships suffer'd in the same
proportion. Thus we find that Ships which have been little more than 12
months from England have suffer'd as much or more by Sickness than we
have done, who have been out near 3 Times as long. Yet their sufferings
will hardly, if att all, be mentioned or known in England; when, on the
other hand, those of the Endeavour, because the Voyage is uncommon, will
very probable be mentioned in every News Paper, and, what is not
unlikely, with many Additional hardships we never Experienced; for such
are the disposition of men in general in these Voyages that they are
seldom content with the Hardships and Dangers which will naturally occur,
but they must add others which hardly ever had existence but in their
imaginations by magnifying the most Trifling accidents and circumstances
to the greatest Hardships and unsurmountable dangers without the imediate
interposition of Providence, as if the whole merit of the Voyage
consisted in the Dangers and Hardships they underwent, or that real ones
did not hapen often enough to give the mind sufficient anxiety. Thus
Posterity are taught to look upon these Voyages as hazardous to the
highest degree.
Thursday, 21st. Fine Pleasant Weather. Employ'd getting on board water,
overhauling the rigging, and repairing Sails. Sail'd for Batavia a Dutch
Ship.
Friday, 22nd, Saturday, 23rd, Sunday, 24th, Monday, 25th, Tuesday, 26th.
Mostly Fine pleasant weather. On the 23rd compleated our water, after
which I gave as many of the People leave to go on shore to refresh
themselves as could be spared at one time.
Wednesday, 27th. Winds variable and clear. Pleasant weather. Sailed for
Holland 4 Sail Dutch Ships.
Thursday, 28th, Friday, 29th. Ditto weather. Employ'd fixing new Topmast
and Backstays, repairing Sails, etc.
Saturday, 30th. In the P.M. anchor'd here the Duke of Gloucester, English
East India Ship from China. In the Evening a prodigious hard gale of wind
came on at South-East, which continued till about 3 o'clock in the
Morning. During the Gales the Table Mountains and Adjacent Hills were
cap'd with Extraordinary while Clouds; the remainder of the Day light
Airs and pleasant weather.
Sunday, 31st. Clear pleasant weather all this day. In the Morning we got
on board a whole Ox, which we cut up and salted. I had eat ashore some of
as good and Fat Beef as ever I eat in my life, and was told that I might
have as good to salt; but in this I was very much disappointed. The one I
got was thin and Lean, yet well taisted; it weighed 408 pounds.
[April 1771.]
Monday, April 1st. In the P.M. I observed a dark, dence haze like a Fog
bank in the South-East Horizon, and which clouds began to gather over the
Table Mountain; certain signs of an approaching gale from the same
Quarter, which about 4 o'clock began to blow with great voialance, and
continued more or less so the Remainder of these 24 Hours, the Table
Mountain cap'd with White Clouds all the time. The weather dry and clear.
Tuesday, 2nd. First part fresh Gales at South-East, the remainder little
wind and calms. In the P.M. sail'd for England the Duke of Gloucester
Indiaman, who Saluted us at his departure. In the A.M. anchored here 2
Dutch Ships from Batavia, and a third at Anchor under Penguin Island in
distress. Put on shore some Sick People.
Wednesday, 3rd. Fine, pleasant weather. Some people on shore on Liberty
to refresh; the rest Employ'd repairing Sails and overhauling the
Rigging.
Thursday, 4th. Ditto Weather. Employ'd Painting the Ship and paying her
sides.
Friday, 5th. Var'ble light winds. Sail'd for Holland 3 Dutch Ships.
Employ'd as above, and getting on board Provisions, etc.
Saturday, 6th. Gentle breezes, with some rain in the Night.
Sunday, 7th. Gentle breezes, and fine, pleasant weather; a Signal for
some Ships being in the offing.
Monday, 8th. Gentle Breezes from the Westward. In the Night Anchor'd here
the Europa, an English East Indiaman from Bengal, and in the Morning she
saluted us with 11 Guns, which Complement we return'd.
Tuesday, 9th. Little wind at South-West, with Foggy, hazey weather.
Employ'd making ready for Sea.
Wednesday, 10th. Gentle breezes at South-South-East and fair weather.
Took on board 11 of our people from Sick Quarters.
Thursday, 11th. Ditto weather. Employ'd getting on board various Articles
of Provisions from the Shore.
Friday, 12th. Wind at South-West, fair weather. Set up the Topmast
rigging, and bent the Sails.
Saturday, 13th. Fresh breezes at South-West, and Cloudy, hazey weather,
in the night Anchor'd here a Dutch Ship from Holland; she sail'd about 3
months ago in company with 2 more. The news brought by this Ship is that
a War is dayley expected between England and Spain; Signals out for 4 or
5 Sail more being in the Offing, one of which is said to be a ship from
England; took leave of the Gouvernour, intending to Sail to-morrow.
Sunday, 14th. Wind Westerly, gentle breezes. In the P.M. got all the Sick
on board, many of whom are yet in a very bad state of health; 3 died
here, but this loss was made up by the opportunity we had of compleating
our full complement. In the morning unmoor'd and got ready for Sailing.
Monday, 15th. None of the Ships in the Offing are yet arrived. Desirous
as we must be of hearing news from England, I detemmin'd not to wait the
arrival of these Ships, but took the advantage of a breeze of wind from
the West-South-West; weigh'd and stood out of the Bay, saluted with 13
Guns, which Complement was return'd both by the Castle and Dutch
Commodore. The Europa Saluted us as we passed her, which we return'd.
This Ship was to have sail'd with or before us, but not liking the
opportunity she lay fast. At 5 in the Evening anchor'd under Penguin or
Robin Island in 10 fathoms water, the Island extending from
West-North-West to South-South-West, distant 1 1/2 or 2 miles.
In the Morning saw a Ship standing into Table Bay, under English Colours,
which we took to be an Indiaman; at Noon Latitude observed 33 degrees 49
minutes South; Cape Town South 20 degrees East, distant 7 miles. As we
could not Sail in the Morning for want of wind, I sent a Boat to the
Island for a few Trifling Articles we had forgot to take in at the Cape,
but the people on shore would not permit her to land, so that she
return'd as she went, and I gave myself no further Trouble at it. Mr.
Banks, who was in the Boat, was of opinion that it was owing to a mistake
made respecting the rank of the Officer commanding the Boat; be this as
it may, it seems probable that the Dutch do not admit of Strangers
landing upon this Island least they should carry off some of those people
which, for certain crimes, they Banish here for Life, as we were told was
done by a Danish Ship a few years ago. But they might have a better
reason for refusing our Boat to land, for it is not improbable but what
there might be some English Seamen upon this Island whom they had sent
from the Cape while we lay there, well knowing that if they came in my
way I should take them on board; and this, I am told, is frequently done
when any of His Majesty's Ships are in the Bay, for it is well known that
the Dutch East India Ships are mostly mann'd by Foreigners.
[Remarks on Cape of Good Hope.]
The Cape of Good Hope hath been so often discribed by Authors, and is so
well known to Europeans, that any discription I can give of it may appear
unnecessary. However, I cannot help observing that most Authors,
particularly the Author of Mr. Byron's voyage, have heightened the
picture to a very great degree above what it will bear; so that a
Stranger is at once struck with surprise and disappointment, for no
Country we have seen this voyage affords so barren a prospect as this,
and not only so in appearance, but in reality.
The land over the Cape which constitutes the Peninsula form'd by Table
Bay on the North, and False Bay on the South, consists of high barren
Mountains; behind these to the East, or what may be called the Isthmus,
is a vast extensive plane, not one thousand part of which either is or
can be cultivated. The Soil consists mostly of a light kind of Sea sand,
producing hardly anything but heath; every inch of Ground that will bear
Cultivation is taken up in Small Plantations, consisting of Vineyards,
Orchards, Kitchen Gardens, etc. Hardly any 2 lay together, but are
dispers'd from one another at some Distance. If we may judge from
circumstances, the Interior Parts of this Country is not more fertile;
that is, the fertile land bears a very small proportion to the whole. We
were told that they have settlements 28 days' journey inland, which is
computed at 900 English Miles, and thus far they bring Provisions to the
Cape by land. It is also said that the Dutch Farmers are so dispers'd
about the country that some have no neighbours within 4 or 5 days'
Journeys of them. Admitting these to be facts, and it will at once appear
that the Country in General cannot be very fertile, for it would be
absurd to suppose that they would raise provisions at such an immence
distance, where the trouble and expence of bringing them to Market must
increase, in proportion, could it be done nearer. The Dutch assign
another reason for being obliged to extend their Scattered Settlements so
far in land; which is, they never disturb the Original native, but always
leave them in peaceable possession of whatever lands they may have
appropriated to their own use, which in some places is pretty Extensive,
and that probably none of the worst, by which good Policy the new
Settlers very seldom if ever meet with any Disturbance from the Natives;
on the contrary, many of them become their Servants, and mix among them,
and are useful members to Society.
Notwithstanding the many disadvantages this Country labours under, such
is the industry, economy, and good management of the Dutch that not only
the necessary, but all the Luxuries, of Life are raised here in as great
abundance, and are sold as cheap, if not cheaper, then in any part of
Europe, some few Articles excepted. Naval Stores, however, do not want
for price any more here than they do at Batavia; these are only sold by
the company, who have a certain fix'd exorbitant Price, from which they
never deviate.
The inhabitants of the Cape Town are in General well bred and Extreamly
Civil and Polite to all Strangers; indeed, it is their Interest so to do,
for the whole Town may be considered as one great Inn fitted up for the
reception of all Comers and goers. Upon the whole, there is perhaps not a
place in the known World that can Equal this in Affording refreshments of
all kinds to Shipping. The Bay is Capacious, pretty safe, and Commodious;
it lies open to the North-West winds, which winds, we are told, very
seldom blow very Strong,* (* In the winter months these winds are very
strong, and make the anchorage in Table Bay anything but safe.) but
sometimes sends in a Great Sea, for which reason Ships moor North-East
and South-West, and in such a manner as to have an Open Hawse with
North-West winds. The South-East winds blow frequently with great
Violence; but as this is right out of the Bay it is attended with no
danger. Near the Town is a wharfe built of wood, run out a proper
Distance into the Sea for the Conveniency of landing and Shipping off