Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
may come so near as to have them entirely within the reach of their Guns;
but it would require 5 or 6 Sail of the line to insure Success. Between 2
and 3 Miles within the Entrance of the Bay, on the West Side, is the Isle
Borghleone, upon the east point of which is Erected a Battry of Stone,
and Mounted with 17 pieces of Cannon. Besides this, on the highest part
of the Island, is a Battry of 6 Guns mounted on an Open Platform. These
battrys are designed to play upon Shipping in the Bay, and seems not ill
designed for that purpose; yet they would be Obliged to Submit to the
Attack of Shipping or that of a Land force, there being nothing to hinder
the latter from Landing on the Island behind the Battrys. Opposite to
this Island, on the low point on the east side of the Bay, is the Battry
of St. Dominica of 7 Guns. A little without this Battry, on the East side
of the Bay, is a small but high Island, close to the Shore, on the Top of
which is the Church of Bonn Voyage, about half-way down the Cliff. Below
the Church is a Battry of 3 Guns. Neither the one nor the other of these
battry's are of much Consequence. They serve, indeed, to force Shipping
coming into the Bay between 2 Fires, and hinder them from Anchoring on
that side until they are silenced. The next fortification is that on the
Ilha dos Cobras, the east point and North side of which consists of a
Rampart Bastion and a Parrapet faced with Stones and mounted with Cannon,
but no Ditch, which is not much wanting, as the works are built on the
Edge of the rising Ground. The other side next the Town hath no other
inclosure but a plain wall without any Guns. It is said that the works on
this Island are in bad repair, on account of being so Extensive that they
would take more men to Defend them than they could spare, and, placing no
Dependancy on their Strength, let them go to decay. The ground on which
the Monastry of Benedictines Stands Commands the Works on the Island.
Over the South end of the City stands the Castle of St. Sebastian; it is
Seated upon a Hill, and Commands the whole Town; and this is all I know
of it, only that it is not counted a place of any great Strength. For the
Defence of these Forts and the Town the King of Portugal Maintains 7
Regiments of Regular Troops. Those I saw were well cloathed and in good
Condition; but this, as I was told, was not the Case with the whole.
Besides these Troops are 3 Regiments of Militia, 2 of Horse and one of
foot. These consist of the principal inhabitants of the place, who serve
without pay, Muster and Exercise in turns nine Months in the year, on
which account they rank with the Regular Troops.
The City of Rio de Janeiro is in the Latitude of 22 degrees 50 minutes
South and Longitude 42 degrees 15 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* Modern
determination, 22 degrees 54 minutes South, 43 degrees 10 minutes West.)
According to Observations made at Sea it is Seated on a plain close to
the Shore on the West side of the Bay, at the foot of Several high
Mountains. It is neither ill designed nor ill built. The Houses are
mostly stone, generally one and two Storys high, with Balconys to most of
them. The Streets are of a Convenient breadth, and Cross each other at
right Angles, and the whole City may be about 3 miles in Compass. It is
Govern'd by a Governor appointed by the King. The present Governor is Don
Anto Mendoyaz Fastada, who is no Friend to the English. It likewise is
the Residence of the Vice-Roy and Captain General of the States of
Brazil, who is as absolute as any Monarch on Earth, and the people to all
appearance as much Slaves. This City and Adjacent parts about the Bay are
said to contain 100,000 Souls; but not above a twentieth part are Whites.
The rest are blacks, many of whom are free, and seem to live in tolerable
Circumstances.
The city of Rio de Janeiro is supplied with Water from 2 Different parts
of the Adjacent Mountains. That which comes from the Southward is
Convey'd a Cross a Deep Valley by an Acquiduct, which Consists of a great
Number of Arches placed in 2 Rows, one upon the other; from thence in
pipes to a fountain which stands in the Middle of the Square before the
Vice-Roy's Palace. At another part of the City is a Reservoir, to which
the water is conveyed much in the same manner. From these 2 places, but
mostly from the former, the inhabitants fetch all they want, where there
is always a Centinel to keep order: and it is likewise here that the
Ships Water. They land their Casks upon a Smooth sandy beach about 100
yards from the Fountain, and upon application to the Vice-Roy you have a
Centinel to look after them and to clear the way for to come to the
fountain to fill water. Upon the whole, Rio de Janeiro is not a bad place
for Ships to put in at that want refreshments, not only because the
Harbour is safe and Commodious, but that Provision and all manner of
Refreshments may be had in tolerable plenty. Bread and Flour are,
however, Scarce and Dear, being brought hither from Europe, and are never
the better for that Passage. In lieu of these are to be had Yams and
Casada. All sorts of Grain--though it may be the produce of this
Country--is Dear. Fresh Beef (tho' bad) is to be had in plenty at about 2
1/4 pence per pound, and Jurked Beef about the same price. This is cured
with Salt, and dryd in the shade, the bones being taken out, and the Meat
cut into large but very thin slices. It eats very well, and if kept in a
dry place will remain good a long time at Sea. Rum, Sugar, and Molasses
are all good and Cheap. Tobacco is Cheap, but not good. Mutton they have
very little. Hogs and all sorts of Poultry are to be got, tho' in no
great plenty, and of Course rather dear. Garden Stuff and Fruit in
plenty, but none that will keep long at Sea except Pumpkins.
They have a Yard for building Shipping and a small Hulk for heaving down
by, there being no other method to come at a Ship's bottom, as the Tides
doth not rise above 6 or 7 feet. At the New and full Moon it is high
Water at that time about 8 o'clock, when the Land and Sea breezes are
regular, but when they are not the Course of Tides are alter'd. The Sea
breeze begins to blow about 10 or 12 o'clock, and continues until sunset,
when it dies away and is succeeded by the land breeze, which continues
most part of the night. From a little after sunrise until the Sea breeze
sets in it is generally Calm, and is then the Hotest and most
Disagreeable part of the whole day.
CHAPTER 2. RIO JANEIRO TO TAHITI.
REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TOWARDS TERRA DEL FUEGO.
[December 1768. Rio to Strait Le Maire.]
THURSDAY, December 8th. Fore and Middle parts Moderate breezes and
Cloudy; remainder, little wind and Clear weather. At 3 p.m. the Boat
returned from the Island; hoisted her in and made Sail at 6. The Sugar
Loaf at the west Entrance of Rio de Janeiro bore North 1/2 East, distance
7 leagues; it lies from the City of Rio de Janeiro, from which I take my
Departure, South-West 4 miles. Wind East-North-East, North-East, North by
East; course South 7 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 85 miles; latitude
24 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 42 degrees 29 minutes West.
Friday, 9th. Genteel light breezes and Clear weather. At 3 a.m. the Fore
top-gallant Mast broke short by the Cap; the Carpenter employed making
another. Wind North, North-East, South-South-West; course South 22
degrees East; distance 32 miles; latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 16 minutes West.
Saturday, 10th. Moderate breezes with some flying showers of Rain the
first part. Wind southerly; course, South-East 1/2 East; distance 75
miles; latitude 25 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 12
minutes West.
Sunday, 11th. Little wind and Clear weather the Most part of this day.
Serv'd Slops* (* Slops are materials for making clothes.) to the People.
Wind southerly; course South 20 degrees East; distance 9 miles; latitude
25 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 8 minutes West.
Monday, 12th. First part, light Airs; remainder, Genteel breezes and
Clear weather. Found the variation of the Compass by the Evening
Amplitude and an Azimuth in the Morning to be 8 degrees 30 minutes East,
and the Observed Latitude at Noon to be short of that given by the Log 10
Miles. Exercised the People at Great Guns and Small Arms. Wind variable;
course South-South-West; distance 34 miles; latitude 26 degrees 14
minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 23 minutes West.
Tuesday, 13th. First part Gentle breezes and Clear, remainder a Steady
Gale. The weather a little hazey. Variation 8 degrees 23 minutes East.
Wind North-East and North-North-East; course South 19 degrees 40 minutes
West; distance 113 miles; latitude 28 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude
42 degrees 6 minutes West.
Wednesday, 14th. First and latter parts, fresh breezes and Cloudy;
middle, little wind, with Thunder, Lightning and Rain. The Caulkers
employed Caulking the Ship's Decks. Wind, North-West, West, South by
West; course South 16 degrees East; distance 87 miles; latitude 29
degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 55 minutes West.
Thursday, 15th. The first part a fresh Gale and dark Cloudy weather;
Remainder, little wind and clear; a large swell from South-West. Wind
South-West by South, South, East-South-East; course South 14 degrees 15
minutes East; distance 45 miles; latitude 30 degrees 8 minutes South,
longitude 41 degrees 39 minutes West.
Friday, 16th. Genteel breezes and Clear weather. Variation 9 degrees 36
minutes East. Wind East-North-East, North-West, North-East; course South
32 degrees West: distance 86 miles; latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 32 minutes West.
Saturday, 17th. Hazey with frequent Showers of Rain all the Fore and
Middle part; latter, Clear weather with a Gentle breeze of wind. Wind,
variable from North-West, South-West, to South-South-East; course South
14 degrees West; distance 56 miles; latitude 32 degrees 15 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 48 minutes West.
Sunday, 18th. First part, light winds; remainder, fresh breezes and Clear
weather. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. Wind, South-East to
North-East; course South 51 West; distance 43 miles; latitude 32 degrees
42 minutes South, longitude 43 degrees 27 minutes West.
Monday, 19th. A steady fresh breeze and fair weather. At half-past 5 p.m.
Longitude in per Observation of the sun and moon 43 degrees 38 minutes
West from Greenwich. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. The Observed
Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 7 Miles. Wind northerly; course
South-West; distance 116 miles; latitude 34 degrees 4 minutes South,
longitude 45 degrees 6 minutes West.
Tuesday, 20th. A fresh breeze of Wind and hazey. Variation 13 degrees 44
minutes East. Observed Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 11 miles.
Wind north; course South-West 1/4 South; distance 160 miles; latitude 36
degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 47 degrees 14 minutes West.
Wednesday, 21st. Wind and weather Variable. Saw several black sheer
Waters. Sounded twice this 24 Hours but found no ground with 90 fathoms.
The Observed Latitude again ahead of the Log 16 miles. Wind variable;
course South 42 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 90 miles; latitude 37
degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 48 degrees 30 minutes West.
Thursday, 22nd. Little wind the most part of this day. Variation 15
degrees 30 minutes East. Bent a New Suit of Sails. Wind southerly; course
West; distance 40 miles; latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude
49 degrees 1 minute West.
Friday, 23rd. Light Airs and Clear weather. Saw some Turtle upon the
Water but could not catch any. Sounded no ground with 200 fathoms.
Variation 15 degrees 40 minutes East. Wind southerly; course North 48