Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
it by that Name. It is a small slender Bird of the Gull kind, and all
white, and not much unlike the small white Gulls we have in England, only
not so big.* (* Terns.) There are also Birds in Newfoundland called
Stearings that are of the same shape and Bigness, only they are of a
Greyish Colour. These Birds were called by the Dolphin Egg Birds on
account of their being like those known by that name by Sailors in the
Gulph of Florida; neither they nor the Man-of-War Birds are ever reckoned
to go very far from Land. Wind North by West to West by North: course
North 13 degrees West; distance 49 miles; latitude 24 degrees 43 minutes
South, longitude 130 degrees 8 minutes West.
[Passing Low Archipelago.]
Friday, 24th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some rain in the forepart of
this day. All the forepart of these 24 hours the Sea was smooth, but at
12 at night it was more so, and about 3 in the Morning one of the people
saw, or thought he saw, a Log of Wood pass the Ship. This made us think
that we were near some land,* (* The Endeavour was now passing to the
northward of the easternmost islands of the Paumotu or Low Archipelago,
though out of sight of them.) but at daylight we saw not the least
appearance of any, and I did not think myself at liberty to spend time in
searching for what I was not sure to find, although I thought myself not
far from those Islands discovered by Quiros in 1606; and very probably we
were not, from the birds, etc., we have seen for these 2 or 3 days past.
Wind West-North-West to North-West; course North-East by North 1/4 East;
distance 99 miles; latitude 22 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 129
degrees 2 minutes West.
Saturday, 25th. First part dark cloudy weather, with rain and a fresh
breeze of wind; remainder fair and Cloudy. Wind North-West by North, to
West by North; course North-East 1/2 North; distance 95 miles; latitude
22 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 55 minutes West.
Sunday, 26th. Squally weather, with rain. At 5 p.m. saw some sea Weed
pass the Ship, and at 7 William Greenslade, Marine, either by Accident or
design, went overboard and was Drowned. The following circumstances makes
it appear as tho' it was done design'dly. He had been Centinel at the
Steerage door between 12 and 4 o'clock, where he had taken part of a Seal
Skin put under his charge, and which was found upon him. The other
Marines thought themselves hurt by one of their party commiting a crime
of this nature, and he being a raw young fellow, and, as very probable,
made him resolve upon commiting this rash Action, for the Serjeant not
being willing that it should pass over unknown to me, was about 7 o'clock
going to bring him aft and have it inquired into, when he gave him the
Slip between Decks, and was seen to go upon the Forecastle, and from that
time was seen no more. I was neither made acquainted with the Theft or
the Circumstances attending it, until the Man was gone. Wind, North-West
to West; longitude 127 degrees 43 minutes West.
Monday, 27th. Variable winds and weather, with frequent showers of rain.
At Noon saw a Bird like a Gannet. Wind variable; course North 1/4 East;
distance 30 miles; latitude 21 degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 127
degrees 38 minutes West.
Tuesday, 28th. Little wind and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees
56 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course North-North-West; distance 37
miles; latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 50
minutes West.
Wednesday, 29th. Little winds and Cloudy weather. Variation per Azimuth 2
degrees 27 minutes East. Saw a Bird like a Dove and several fish about
the Ship. Employed worming the Best Br. Cable, repairing and Painting the
Boats. Wind Easterly; course North 75 degrees West; distance 50 miles;
latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes
West.
Thursday, 30th. First part, Calm and close Cloudy weather; in the night
had Variable winds and weather, with rain. A.M. Genteel Breezes and
Cloudy weather. Between 10 and 11 a.m. took several Observations of the
sun and moon; the mean result of them gave the Longitude of the Ship at
Noon to be 127 degrees 38 minutes, and is 1 degree 49 minutes East of the
Longitude given by the Log; but on the 4th Instant the ship by
Observation was 47 minutes West of the Log, therefore she must have lost
2 degrees 36 minutes of the Log since the last Observation--an Error too
great to be accounted for. Wind calm, variable, South-South-East; course
North 40 degrees West; distance 53 miles; latitude 19 degrees 34 minutes
South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes West.
Friday, 31st. A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. A.M. took
several Observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of them came
within 8 Miles of Yesterday's Observations computed both by Mr. Green and
myself, and yet cannot think so great an error can have been committed in
the ship's run in so short a time as these observations seem to point
out, and therefore I shall abide by the Longitude given by the Log unless
from subsequent Observations this error should be found to be just. Wind
South; course North 75 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 111 miles;
latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 131 degrees 21 minutes
West.
[April 1769.]
Saturday, April 1st. A steady fresh Trade and fine Weather. Variation per
several Azimuths 2 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind South-East to East 1/2
North; course West; distance 122 miles; latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes
South, longitude 133 degrees 28 minutes West.
Sunday, 2nd. A fresh Trade wind and fine pleasant weather. At Noon saw a
Large flock of Birds; they had brown backs and white Bellies. They fly
and make a noise like Stearings, and are shaped like them, only something
larger. Saw likewise some black Sheerwaters and Several Man-of-War birds.
Wind East; course North 86 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 118 miles;
latitude 19 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 135 degrees 33 minutes
West.
Monday, 3rd. First and Latter parts a steady fresh Breeze and cloudy; the
Middle, sometimes squally with rain, at other times little wind. P.M. saw
2 Birds like Albetrosses; they were all white except the Tip of their
wings and Tails. Wind East; course North 82 degrees 45 minutes West;
distance 110 miles; latitude 18 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 137
degrees 29 minutes West.
Tuesday, 4th. A Steady fresh Trade and clear weather. At 1/2 past 10 a.m.
saw land bearing south, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Haul'd up for it, and
soon found it to be an Island of about 2 Leagues in Circuit and of an
Oval form, with a Lagoon in the Middle, for which I named it Lagoon
Island. The Border of land Circumscribing this Lagoon is in many places
very low and narrow, particularly on the south side, where it is mostly a
Beach or Reef of rocks; it is the same on the North side in 3 places, and
these disjoins the firm land and make it appear like so many Islands
covered with wood. On the West end of the Island is a large Tree which
looks like a large Tower, and about the Middle of the Island are two
Cocoa Nutt Trees that appears above all the other wood, which as we
approached the Island looked very much like a flag. We approached the
north side of this Island within a Mile, and found no Bottom with 130
fathoms of line, nor did there appear to be Anchorage about it. We saw
several of the Inhabitants, the most of them men, and these Marched along
the shore abreast of the Ships with long Clubs in their hands as tho'
they meant to oppose our landing. They were all naked except their Privy
parts, and were of a Dark Copper Colour with long black Hair, but upon
our leaving the Island some of them were seen to put on a Covering, and
one or two we saw in the Skirts of the Wood was Cloathed in White; these
we supposed to be Women. This Island lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees
47 minutes and Longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes West from the Meridian of
Greenwich;* (* This island is Vahitahi, one of the Paumotu or Low
Archipelago.) variation 2 degrees 54 minutes East. Wind East, East by
South; course North 88 degrees West; distance 114 miles; latitude 18
degrees 42 minutes South, longitude 139 degrees 29 minutes West.
Wednesday, 5th. A fresh steady gale and fine weather. At 1 p.m. made Sail
to the Westward, and at 1/2 past 3 saw land to the North-West, which we
got up with at Sun sett and proved to be a low woody Island of a Circular
form, and not much above a Mile in Compass. This Island I called Thrum
Cap* (* Akiaki. It is inhabited.); it lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees
35 minutes South and in the Longitude of 139 degrees 48 minutes West from
Greenwich, and North 62 degrees West, 7 Leagues from Lagoon Island. We
saw no inhabitants, nor the appearance of any, and yet we were within 1/2
a Mile of the Shore. I observed by the Shore that it was near low Water,
and at Lagoon Island I observed that it was either high Water or else
there was no Ebbing and flowing of the Sea. From these Circumstances I
infer that a South by East or South Moon makes high Water. Here we caught
a King Fish, being the first fish we have got in these Seas. Wind East;
course North 77 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 79 miles; latitude 18
degrees 25 minutes South, longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes West.
Thursday, 6th. A fresh Trade and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. Saw
land to the Westward, which proved to be an Island of about 12 or 15
Leagues in Compass; is very low and entirely drown'd in the Middle,
forming there a large lake, into which there appeared to be no inlet. The
border of land and Reef surrounding this lake like a wall appeared to be
of a Bow-like figure, for which reason I named it Bow Island. The South
side, along which we sail'd, was one continued low narrow Beach or Reef
like a Causeway for 4 Leagues and upwards, and lies East by North and
West by South. The East and West Ends and North side of this Island are
wooded-in Groves, and the firm Land appeared disjoined and like a Number
of Islands, and very probably is so. The North-West parts of the Island
we only saw aCross the Lake, and not very distinct on account of its
great extent, and night coming on before we had run the whole length of
the Island. This description must be imperfect, and the whole Island may
form a Different figure to what I have here described.* (* Hao. It is a
large atoll, thirty miles in length. Cook only saw a portion of it.) The
east end lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees 23 minutes South, and
Longitude 141 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich. Variation 5 degrees
38 minutes East. This Island is Inhabited; we not only saw smook in
Different Parts, but people also. At Noon saw Land to the Westward. Wind
east; course North 85 degrees West; distance 94 miles; latitude 18
degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 142 degrees 29 minutes West.
Friday, 7th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. got up with the
East end of the Land seen yesterday at Noon, and which proved to be an
assemblage of Islands join'd together by Reef, and extending themselves
North-West by North and South-East by South in 8 or 9 Leagues and of
various breadths; but there appeared to be a total Seperation in the
middle by a Channell of half a Mile broad, and on this account they are
called the two Groups.* (* Marokau and Ravahare. Two atolls close
together.) The South Eastermost of them lies in the Latitude of 18
degrees 12 minutes and Longitude of 142 degrees 42 minutes West from
Greenwich, and West 1/2 North distant 25 Leagues from the West end of Bow
Island. We ranged along the South-West side of this Island, and hauled
into a Bay which lies to the North-West of the Southermost point of them,
and where there appeared to be Anchorage and the Sea was smooth and not