Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
mentioned Tuburi being sorry to see Jeffs punished."
It is evident, from what Cook himself tells us (above), and from what is
now well known of the laxity of Tahitian morals, that this punishment
would seem excessive to the natives, and especially to the women, who
were accustomed themselves to bear whatever blame was bestowed.
Note. For full description of original Tahitian manners and customs, see
"Polynesian Researches," by W. Ellis (London, H.G. Bohn, 1853); "Iles
Taiti," par MM. Vincendon-Dumoulin et Chas. Desgraz (Paris, 1844).
CHAPTER 4. TAHITI TO NEW ZEALAND.
REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES AT SEA.
[July 1769.]
FRIDAY, July 14th. Gentle breezes at North-East and Clear weather. I have
before made mention of our departure from Royal Bay on the preceeding
forenoon, and likewise that I had determined to run down to Huaheine and
Ulietea* (* Raiatea.) before we stood to the Southward; but having
discovered, from the Hills of George's Island, an Island laying to the
Northward, we first stood that way to take a nearer View of it. This
Island is called Tethuroa.* (* Tetiaroa.) It lies North 1/2 West, distant
8 Leagues from Point Venus, and is a small, low, uninhabited Island,
frequented by the people of George's Island for fish, with which it is
said to abound. At 6 A.M. the Westermost part of York Island bore
South-East 1/2 South and the body of George's Island East 1/2 South.
Punished the 2 Marines who attempted to desert from us at George's Island
with 2 Dozen lashes each, and then released them from Confinement. At
Noon the body of York Island* (* Eimeo, or Murea.) bore East by South 1/2
South, Royal Bay South 70 degrees 45 minutes East, distant 61 Miles; and
an Island which we took to be Saunder's Island, discovered by Captain
Wallace (called by the Natives Topoamanan),* (* Tubuai Manu.) bore
South-South-West Latitude observed, 17 degrees 9 minutes South. Saw land
bearing North-West 1/2 West, which Tupia calls the Island of Huaheine.
Saturday, 15th. Light airs and Variable between the North and
West-South-West. Clear weather. At 6 p.m. York Island bore South-East,
and Huaheine West-North-West, and at 7 a.m. it bore West. Latitude
observed at Noon 16 degrees 50 minutes South. Royal Bay South 37 degrees
30 minutes East, distant 22 Leagues.
[At Huaheine.]
Sunday, 16th. Winds at South and South-South-East. A Gentle Breeze, with
some few showers of rain. At 6 p.m. the Island of Huaheine West 1/2
South, distant 7 or 8 leagues. At 8 a.m., being close in with the
North-West part of the Island, sounded, but had no ground with 80
fathoms. Some of the Natives came off to the Ship, but they were very shy
of coming near until they discover'd Tupia; but after that they came on
board without hesitation. Among those who came on board was the King of
the Island, whose name is Oree. He had not been long on board before he
and I exchanged Names, and we afterwards address'd each other
accordingly.* (* The Tahitians called Cook Tootee, which was their idea
of the sound of his name, with a vowel termination, none of their words
ending in a consonant.) At noon the North end of the Island bore South by
East 1/2 East, distant 72 Leagues. Latitude observed, 16 degrees 40
minutes South. Three other Islands in sight, namely, Ulietea, Otaha, and
Bolabola,* (* Tahaa and Borabora.) so called by the Natives.
Monday, 17th. Winds Southerly, fine pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. anchored
in a small Harbour on the West side of the Island called by the Natives
Owarhe, in 18 fathoms water, clear ground, and secure from all winds.
Soon after, I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and
Dr. Monkhouse, Tupia, the King of the Island, and some others of the
Natives, who had been on board since the morning. The Moment we landed
Tupia stripped himself as low as his waist, and desir'd Mr. Monkhouse to
do the same. He then sat down before a great number of the Natives that
were collected together in a large Shed or House, the rest of us, by his
own desire, standing behind; he then begun a long speach or prayer, which
lasted near a Quarter of an Hour, and in the Course of this Speech
presented to the People two Handkerchiefs, a black silk Neckcloth, some
beads, and two very small bunches of Feathers. These things he had before
provided for that purpose. At the same time two Chiefs spoke on the other
side in answer to Tupia, as I suppose, in behalf of the People, and
presented us with some young Plantains plants, and 2 small bunches of
Feathers. These were by Tupia order'd to be carried on board the Ship.
After the Peace was thus concluded and ratified, every one was at liberty
to go where he pleased, and the first thing Tupia did was to go and pay
his Oblations at one of the Mories. This seem'd to be a common ceremony
with this people, and I suppose always perform'd upon landing on each
other's Territories in a peaceable manner. It further appear'd that the
things which Tupia gave away was for the God of this People, as they gave
us a Hog and some Cocoanuts for our God, and thus they have certainly
drawn us in to commit sacriledge, for the Hog hath already received
sentence of Death, and is to be dissected to-morrow. A.M. I set about
Surveying the Island, and Dr. Monkhouse, with some hands, went ashore to
Trade with the Natives, while the Long boat was employ'd compleating our
Water.
Tuesday, 18th. Gentle breezes at South and South-South-West. Clear
weather. The Trading party had no Success to-day. The Natives pretend
that they have not had time to collect their provisions from the
Differant parts of the Island, but that on the Morrow we should have
some; and as I had not seen so much of the Island as I desir'd, I
resolved to stay one day longer to see if anything was to be got.
Wednesday, 19th. P.M. Variable light Airs and clear weather. The Trading
party had better success to-day than Yesterday. A.M. a Gentle breeze at
South-East. As it was known to the Natives that we intended to sail
to-day, Oree, the Chief, and several more, came on board to take their
leave of us. To the Chief was given a small plate on which was Stamp'd
the following inscription--viz., "His Britannick Majesty's Ship,
Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine." This
was accompanied with some Medals, or Counters, of the English Coins,
struck 1761, together with some other Presents. All these, but more
particularly the Plate, the Chief promised never to part with. This we
thought would prove as lasting a Testimony of our having first discover'd
this Island as any we could leave behind. After this was done they were
dismissed, and we began to prepare to leave the place. But as that falls
out on the following day, I shall conclude this with a Discription of the
Island, which is situated in the Latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes South,
and Longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes West from Greenwich and North 58
degrees West, distance, 31 leagues, from King George's Island, or
Otaheite. It is about 7 Leagues in compass, and of a Hilly and uneven
surface. It hath a safe and commodious Harbour, which lies on the West
side, under the Northermost high land and within the North end of the
Reef which lays along that side of the Island. Into this Harbour are 2
inlets, or openings in the Reef, about 1 1/2 Miles from each other. The
Southermost is the Broadest, on the South side of which is a very small
sandy Island. This Harbour is called by the Natives Ohwarhe. The produce
of this Island is in all respects the same as King George's Island, and
the Manner and Customs of the inhabitants much the same, only that they
are not addicted to Stealing; and with respect to colour they are rather
fairer than the natives of George's Island, and the whole more Uniformly
of one Colour.
[At Raiatea.]
Thursday, 20th. Moderate breezes at East and East-North-East. Fair
weather. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. weighed and made Sail for the Island of
Ulietea, which lies South-West by West, Distance 7 or 8 leagues from
Huaheine. At 1/2 past 6 we were within 3 Leagues of it, then shortened
sail and stood off and on all night, and at daylight made Sail in shore,
and soon after discover'd an opening in the Reef that lies along this
side of the Island, within which, Tupia said, was a good Harbour. Upon
this I hoisted out the Pinnace, and sent the Master in to Examine it, who
soon made the Signal for the Ship to follow. Accordingly we stood in and
Anchor'd in 22 fathoms, soft ground. Soon after we Anchor'd some of the
Natives came on board the Ship with very little invitation.
Friday, 21st. Winds variable, and dark, cloudy weather, with frequent
Showers of rain. At 1 p.m. I landed in Company with Mr. Banks and the
other gentlemen. The first thing done was the performing of Tupia's
ceremony in all respects as at Huaheine. I then hoisted an English jack,
and took possession of the Island and those adjacent in the name of His
Britannick Majesty, calling them by the same names as the natives do.
A.M. sent the Master in the Long boat to examine the coast of the South
part of the Island, and one of the Mates in the Yawl to sound the Harbour
where the Ship lay, while I was employ'd in the Pinnace surveying the
Northern part of the Island, and Mr. Monkhouse went ashore to trade with
the Natives for such refreshments as were to be got.
Saturday, 22nd. P.M. the wind Variable with Showers of rain. A.M. strong
Gales at South and hazey with rain, and which continued the most part of
Sunday, 23rd, in so much that I did not think it safe to break the Ship
loose and put to sea as I intended.
Monday, 24th. Winds variable from South-South-East to North-East. At 8
a.m. got under sail and plyed to the Northward within the Reef, in order
to go out at the Northern Channell, it being the broadest; but being
little wind and meeting with Shoals we had not before discovered, we
turned down but slowly.
Tuesday, 25th. First part, little wind at North-East; in the night calm,
A.M. a fresh breeze at West-North-West, fair weather. At 3 p.m. Anchor'd
in 22 fathoms Muddy bottom, the North Channell open bearing North-East
1/2 East, at 5 a.m. a breeze sprung up at North-West, weighed and put to
Sea, and hauled to the Northward in order to take a View of the Island
and Ataha and Bolabola; but before I proceed farther, I shall describe
the Harbour we have been in.* (* It has no particular name, but extends
the whole of the eastern side of Raiatea.) This Harbour, taken in its
greatest Extent, is capable of holding any number of Shipping in perfect
security, as it extends almost the whole length of this side of the
Island, and is defended from the Sea by a reef of Coral rocks; the
Southermost opening* (* Teava Moa Pass.) in this reef or Channell into
the Harbour, which is not more than a Cable's length wide, is off the
Eastermost point of the Island, and may be known by a small woody Island,
which lies a little to the South-East of it. Between 3 and 4 miles
North-West from this Island lies 2 other small Islands, and in the same
direction as the reef, of which they are a part. Between these 2 Islands
is another Channell* (* Iriru Pass.) into the Harbour that is a full
Quarter of a Mile broad; still further to the North-West are some other
small Islands, where, I am informed, is another small inlet, but this I
did not see; but, as to the other 2, we enter'd the Harbour by the one
and came out by the other.
The principal refreshments we have got here consists in Plantains, Cocoa
nuts, some Yams and a few Hogs and fowls. This side of the Island is
neither Populous nor Rich in Produce, if compared to George's Island, or
even Huaheine; however, here is no want of refreshments for a ship who
may put in here and stay but a short time; and wood and water may be got