Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
everywhere, tho' the latter is not very convenient to come at.
[Off Bolabola.]
Wednesday, 26th. Winds at West by North and West by South, but very
Variable towards the Latter part. At 4 p.m. the North End of Ulietea
South 75 degrees West, distance 2 leagues, and the south end of Otaha
North 77 degrees West. About a League to the Northward of the South end
of Otaha, on the East side of the Island, a mile or more from the Shore,
lies 2 Small Islands. Between these Islands Tupia says there is a
Channell into a very good harbour which lies within the Reef and it had
all the appearance of such. Keept plying to Windward all night without
getting any ground. At Noon the Peak on Bolabola West by South. Latitude
observed 16 degrees 26 minutes South.
Thursday, 27th. Variable light Airs of wind in the South-West Quarter,
and fair weather. Seeing that there is a broad Channell between Otaha and
Bolabola, I intend to go through that way and not run to the Northward of
all; but as the wind is right an end, and very Variable withall, we get
little or no ground. Between 5 and 6 o'Clock p.m., as we were standing to
the Northward, we discover'd a small low Island lying North by West or
North-North-West distant 4 or 5 Leagues from Bolabola. This Island is
called Tubai. Tupia says it produces nothing but a few Cocoa Nuts, that
there are only 3 families live upon it, but that the people from these
Islands resort thither to Catch fish. At Noon the peak of Bolabola bore
North 25 degrees West, and the north end of Otaha North 80 degrees West,
distant 3 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 38 minutes South.
Friday, 28th. Little wind and Variable between the South-West and
North-West. At 6 a.m., being near the Entrance of the Harbour which lies
on the East side of Otaha before mentioned,* (* Hamene Bay.) and finding
that it might be examin'd without loosing time, I sent away the Master in
the Long boat, with orders to sound the Harbour, and if the wind did not
shift in our favour to land upon the Island and to Traffick with the
Natives for such refreshments as were to be got. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander went along with him.
Saturday, 29th. Little wind and Variable. Kept plying on and off this
day, waiting for the return of the Long boat. At 1/2 past 5 not seeing
anything of her, fir'd a Gun for her to return, and as soon as it was
dark hoisted a light. At 1/2 past 8 heard the report of a musquet, which
we answered with a Gun; and soon after the Boat came on board with 3
small Hogs, a few Fowls, and a large Quantity of Plantains, and some
Yams. They found the Natives very Sociable and ready to part with
anything they had, and the Harbour safe and Commodious, with a good
Anchorage in 25, 20, and 16 fathoms clear ground. As soon as the Boat was
hoisted in we made Sail to the Northward, and at 8 o'Clock a.m. were
close under the Peak of Bolabola, but as we could not weather the Island,
we Tack'd and stood off until near Noon, then Tack'd again and stood to
the South-West. At Noon the Peak of Bolabola bore South 75 degrees West;
we were then distant from the Shore under it 2 or 3 miles, and from the
Peak about 5 miles. Latitude observed 16 degrees 29 minutes South.
Sunday, 30th. Wind in the South-East Quarter. At first a Gentle breeze,
but afterwards freshned upon us. P.M. made several Trips before we could
weather the South end of Bolabola, which at last we accomplished between
7 and 8 o'Clock, and stood off South-South-West until 12 at night, then
Tack'd and stood in until 4 a.m., then stood off again; but meeting with
a large swell from the Southward, against which the Ship made little or
no way, at 8 we tack'd and stood in Shore again. At this time we
discovered an Island which bore from us North 63 degrees West, distant
about 8 Leagues: at the same time the Peak of Bolabola bore North 1/2
East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. This Island Tupia calls Maurua, and
according to his account it is but small, and surrounded by a Reef of
Rocks, and hath no Harbour fit for Shipping. It is inhabited, and its
produce is the same as the other Islands we have touched at. It riseth in
a high round hill in the middle of the Island, which may be seen 10
Leagues. At noon the South end of Otaha bore North 80 degrees East,
distance 4 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 39 minutes South.
Monday, 31st. Fresh Gales in the South-East Quarter, and close, cloudy
weather. Plying to windward all this day, on the South-West side of
Otaha, without gaining little or anything. In the middle watch was
obliged to double reef our Topsails, but in the morning it fell moderate,
and we crowded all the sail we could. At Noon the South end of Otaha bore
East, distance 2 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 40 minutes South.
Tupia told us there was a very good Harbour within the Reef which lies on
this side of Otaha; but this Harbour I shall discribe in another place.
[August 1769. At Raiatea.]
Tuesday, August 1st. A fresh Gale at South-East the most part of this
day. Keept plying to windward all the afternoon and night, and in the
morning found ourselves nearly the length of the South end of Ulietea,
and to windward of some Harbours that lay on the West side of this
Island. Into one of them I intended to go with the Ship, in order to stop
a Leak in the Powder room, which could not be easily done at Sea, and to
take in more Ballast, as I found her too light to carry sail upon a wind.
At Noon plying off one of the Harbour's mouth, the wind being right out.
Wednesday, 2nd. Moderate breezes at South-East and East, with some
Showers of Rain. At 3 p.m. anchor'd in the Entrance of the Channell
leading into the Harbour* (* Rautoanui.) in 14 fathoms water; found a
tide setting pretty strong out, which was the reason that we could not
work in; carried out the Kedge Anchor in order to warp into the Harbour,
but after this was done we could not Trip the Bower Anchor with all the
purchass we could make, and was therefore obliged to lay still all night,
but in the morning we did it with Ease, and warped the Ship into a proper
birth, and moor'd in 28 fathoms, a sandy bottom. A great many of the
Natives came off to us both last night and this morning, and brought with
them Hogs, Fowls, Plaintains, etc., which they parted with at a very easy
rate.
Thursday, 3rd. Winds from East-South-East to North-East; very Hot weather
this afternoon. I went ashore to look for a place to get stones for
Ballast, and a watering place, both of which I found very convenient; and
in the morning sent an Officer a Shore to Superintend the getting off the
Ballast and Water, and I went in the Pinnace to the Northward to survey
that part of the Island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while
the Carpenters were employ'd on board stopping the Leaks of the Powder
room and Foresail room.
Friday, 4th. First and Latter parts, moderate breezes, at
East-North-East; in the night, Calm, Hot, and sultry. In our rout to the
Northward this afternoon we were entertained at one place with Musick and
Dancing. The Musick consisted of 3 Drums, and the Dancing was mostly
perform'd by 2 Young Women and one Man, and this seem'd to be their
profession. The dress of the women was such as we had not seen before; it
was neat, decent, and well chose, and in many respects not much unlike a
European dress; only their Arms, Necks, and Shoulders were bare, and
their headdress was the Tomow stuck with Flowers. They made very little
use of their feet and Legs in Dancing, but one part or another of their
bodies were in continual motion and in various postures, as standing,
setting, and upon their Hands and knees, making strange Contorsions.
Their Arms, hands, and Fingers they moved with great Agility and in a
very Extraordinary manner, and altho' they were very exact in observing
the same motion in all their movements, yet neither their Musick or
Dancing were at all Calculated to please a European. There were likewise
some men, who acted a kind of a Farce; but this was so short that we
could gather nothing from it, only that it shew'd that these People have
a Notion of Dramatick performances, and some of our Gentlemen saw them
act a Farce the next day, wherein was 4 Acts, and it seem'd to them to
represent a War between the Bolabola men and those of Ulietea, wherein
the former triumph'd over the latter; but what might help them to draw
this Conclusion was the knowing that such a thing has not long ago hapned
between these 2 People, and that the Bolabola men at present possess most
of the Lands on this Island. This is their grand Dramatick Heiva, and I
believe is occasionally performed in all the Islands. Upon my return to
the Ship in the evening I found that they had got on board 20 Tuns of
Ballast, and this I thought would be sufficient. In the morning we sent
all our water Casks on shore, and got them all off full by Noon. This
morning I received a present from Opoony, the Eare dehi of Bolabola, who
at this time was upon this Island. It consisted of 3 Hogs, some pieces of
Cloth, Plantains, Cocoa Nuts, etc. These were sent by his Servants, and I
was told that he would come the next day himself.
Saturday, 5th. This evening we bought as much Fish as the whole Ship's
Company could destroy while good. In the morning I sent the Master to the
North End of the Island with the Long boat to Traffick with the Natives
for Provisions, as they did not bring it to the Ship, as they had
hitherto done; and myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander,
went in the Pinnace to the Southern part of the Island, partly on the
same account and partly to Examine that part of the Island. In our rout
we passed thro' 2 Harbours equally as good as the one in which the Ship
lays, but the Country about them is poorer and but thinly inhabited, and
we got no one thing worth bringing home with us, but the Master succeeded
something better.
Sunday, 6th. Variable light Airs and fair weather. A.M. I sent the Master
again to the Northward to procure refreshments, who return'd not
unsuccessfull. Opoony, the Chief, sent some of his people this morning to
me to get something in return for the present he sent the other day; he
not choosing, as I suppose, to trust himself on board, or perhaps he
thought the persons he sent (who were 3 very pretty young Girls) would
succeed better than he should do. Be this as it may, they went away very
well satisfied with what they got, altho' I believe that they were
disappointed in some things.
Monday, 7th. Variable light Airs. P.M. some Showers of rain. Being
desirous to see King Opoony, we made a party this afternoon and I went
ashore for that purpose, carrying along with us a small present. Upon our
landing he did not receive us setting, as all the other Chiefs had
hitherto done, or in any manner of Form; this we attributed to his
Stupidity, for such he appeared to be. However, he gave me a Hog in
return for the present I made him, and this was paying us full as great a
Complement. Before we took our leave we let him know that we should go to
Otaha in the morning in our Boats, and would be glad to have him along
with us, and he accordingly promised to accompany us thither.
Accordingly, very early in the morning, I set out with both Pinnace and
Long boat for Otaha, and some of the Gentlemen along with me; and in our
way called upon Opoony, who was in his Canoe ready to set out. As soon as
we landed on Otaha I made him a present of a Axe; this I thought would
induce him to incourage his Subjects to bring us such Provisions as we
wanted, but I believe we had already got all they intended us, for after
staying with him until Noon we were obliged to go away without geting any
one thing.
Tuesday, 8th. After leaving Opoony we proceeded towards the North point