Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Surprise of everybody became at once as cheerful and as merry as if they
had been with their own Friends. They were all 3 Young, the eldest not
above 20 years of Age, and the youngest about 10 or 12. I am aware that
most Humane men who have not experienced things of this nature will
Censure my Conduct in firing upon the People in their Boat, nor do I
myself think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will at all
justify me; and had I thought that they would have made the Least
Resistance I would not have come near them; but as they did, I was not to
stand still and suffer either myself or those that were with me to be
knocked on the head.
In the morning, as I intended to put our 3 Prisoners ashore, and stay
here the day to see what effect it might have upon the other Natives, I
sent an Officer ashore with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood,
and soon after followed myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,
and Tupia, taking the 3 Natives with us, whom we landed on the West side
of the River before mentioned. They were very unwilling to leave us,
pretending that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, who
would kill and Eat them. However, they at last of their own accord left
us and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover'd
several bodys of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retir'd
aCross the River, and joind the wooders; and with us came the 3 Natives
we had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go to
their own people. We had no sooner got over the River than the others
assembled on the other side to the Number of 150 or 200, all Arm'd. Tupia
now began to Parly with them, and the 3 we had with us shew'd everything
we had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the Body of the
Man that was Kill'd the day before. These things seem'd so far to
Convince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us,
while all the others sat down upon the Sand. We everyone made this man a
present, and the 3 Natives that were with us likewise presented him with
such things as they had got from us, with which, after a short Stay, he
retir'd aCross the River. I now thought proper to take everybody on
board, to prevent any more Quarrels, and with us came the 3 Natives, whom
we could not prevail upon to stay behind; and this appear'd the more
strange as the man that came over to us was Uncle to one of them. After
we had return'd on board we saw them Carry off the Dead Man; but the one
that was Kill'd the first evening we Landed remain'd in the very spot
they had left him.
[Leave Poverty Bay.]
Wednesday, 11th. In the P.M., as I intended to sail in the Morning, we
put the 3 Youths ashore, seemingly very much against their inclination;
but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us, or the
fear of falling into the hands of their Enemies, as they pretended, I
know not. The latter, however, seemed to be ill-founded, for we saw them
carried aCross the River in a Catamaran, and walk Leasurely off with the
other Natives. At 6 a.m. we weighed and stood out of the Bay, which I
have named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted
(Latitude 38 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes
West).* (* Latitude correct. Longitude is 181 degrees 57 minutes West.)
It is in the form of a Horse Shoe, and is known by an Island lying close
under the North-East point. The 2 points which forms the Entrance are
high, with Steap white Cliffs, and lay a League and a half or 2 Leagues
from Each other, North-East by East and South-West by West. The Depth of
Water in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms, a sandy bottom and good
Anchorage, but you lay open to the winds between the South and East.
Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of Tide
in fine weather; but as there is a Bar at the Entrance, on which the Sea
Sometimes runs so high that no Boat can either get in or out, which
hapned while we laid here; however, I believe that Boats can generally
land on the North-East side of the river. The shore of this Bay, from a
little within each Entrance, is a low, flat sand; but this is only a
Narrow Slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hills
and Vallies, all cloathed with woods and Verdure, and to all appearance
well inhabited, especially in the Vallies leading up from the Bay, where
we daily saw Smoke at a great distance inland, and far back in the
Country are very high Mountains. At Noon the South-West point of Poverty
Bay, which I have named Young Nicks head (after the Boy who first saw
this land),* (* In Mr. Molineux's Log, his name is given as Nicholas
Young, but no such name appears in the official lists.) bore North by
West, distance 3 or 4 leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from the
Shore, and had 25 fathoms Water, the Main Land extending from North-East
by North to South. My intention is to follow the direction of the Coast
to the Southward, as far as the Latitude of 40 or 41 degrees, and then to
return to the Northward, in case we meet with nothing to incourage us to
proceed farther.
[Off Portland Island, North Island, New Zealand.]
Thursday, 12th. Gentle breezes at North-West and North, with frequent
Calms. In the Afternoon, while we lay becalm'd, several Canoes came off
to the Ship, but keept at a distance until one, who appeared to come from
a different part, came off and put alongside at once, and after her all
the rest. The people in this boat had heard of the Treatment those had
met with we had had on board before, and therefore came on board without
hesitation; they were all kindly treated, and very soon entered into a
Traffick with our People for George's Island Cloth, etc.; giving in
Exchange their Paddles, having little else to dispose of, and hardly left
themselves a sufficient number to paddle ashore; nay, the people in one
Canoe, after disposing of their Paddles, offer'd to sell the Canoe. After
a stay of about 2 hours they went away, but by some means or other 3 were
left on board, and not one boat would put back to take them in, and, what
was more surprizing, those aboard did not seem at all uneasy with their
situation. In the evening a light breeze springing up at North-West, we
steer'd along Shore, under an easy sail, until midnight, then brought
too. Soon after it fell Calm, and continued so until 8 o'Clock a.m., when
a breeze sprung up at North, with which we stood along shore
South-South-West. At and after sunrise found the variation to be 14
degrees 46 minutes East. About this time 2 Canoes came off to the Ship,
one of which was prevailed upon to come along side to take in the 3
people we had had on board all night, who now seem'd glad of the
opportunity to get ashore. As the People in the Canoe were a little shy
at first, it was observed that one Argument those on board made use on to
intice the others alongside, was in telling them that we did not Eat men;
from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom among
them. At the time we made sail we were abreast of the Point of Land set
yesterday at Noon, from which the Land trends South-South-West. This
point I have named Cape Table, on account of its shape and figure. It
lies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay, in the Latitude of 39
degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West, it is of
a moderate height, makes in a sharpe Angle, and appears to be quite flat
at Top. In steering along shore to the Southward of the Cape, at the
distance of 2 or 3 miles off, our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathoms,
having a Chain of Rocks that appears at different heights above water,
laying between us and the Shore. At Noon, Cape Table bore North 20
degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being the
Southermost land in sight) bore South 70 degrees West, distant 3 miles.
This Island I have named Isle of Portland, on account of its very great
resemblance to Portland in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from
a Point on the Main, but there appears to be a ledge of Rocks extending
nearly, if not quite, aCross from the one to the other. North 57 degrees
East, 2 Miles from the South point of Portland, lies a sunken rock
whereon the sea breaks; we passed between this Rock and the land having
17, 18, and 20 fathom Water. We saw a great Number of the Natives
assembled together on the Isle of Portland; we likewise saw some on the
Main land, and several places that were Cultivated and laid out in square
Plantations.
Friday, 13th. At 1 p.m. we discover'd land behind or to the Westward of
Portland, extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In hauling
round the South end of Portland we fell into Shoal Water and broken
ground, which we, however, soon got clear of. At this time 4 Canoes came
off to us full of People, and keept for sometime under our stern
threatning of us all the while. As I did not know but what I might be
obliged to send our Boats ahead to sound, I thought these Gentry would be
as well out of the way. I order'd a Musquet shott to be fir'd close to
one of them, but this they took no notice of. A 4 Pounder was then fir'd
a little wide of them; at this they began to shake their Spears and
Paddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire.
Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the Land North-West, having a
Gentle breeze at North-East, which died away at 5 o'Clock and obliged us
to Anchor in 21 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom: the South Point of Portland
bore South-East 1/2 South distant about 2 Leagues, and a low Point on the
Main bore North 1/2 East. In this last direction there runs in a deep bay
behind the Land on which is Table Cape, which makes this Land a
Peninsula, joined to the Main by a low, narrow neck of land; the Cape is
the North Point of the Peninsula, and Portland the South. While we lay at
Anchor 2 Boats came off to us, and so near as to take up some things we
throw'd them out of the Ship, but would not come alongside. At 5 a.m. a
breeze springing northerly we weigh'd and steer'd in for the Land. The
shore here forms a very large Bay, of which Portland is the North-East
Point, and the Bay above mentioned is an Arm of it. I would gladly have
examin'd this Arm, because there appear'd to be safe Anchorage in it, but
as I was not certain of this, and the wind being right an End, I did not
care to spend time in Turning up to it. At Noon Portland bore South 50
degrees East, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West,
distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about 3 miles from the Shore, and in this
situation had 12 fathoms water--24 fathoms have been the most Water we
have had since we have been within Portland, every where clear ground.
The land near the Shore is of a moderate height, with white Cliffs and
Sandy beaches. Inland are several Pretty high Mountains, and the whole
face of the Country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the most
part Covered with wood, and hath all the appearances of a very pleasant
and fertile Country.
Saturday, 14th. P.M. had Gentle breezes between the North-East and
North-West. Kept running down along shore at the distance of 2 or 3 miles
off. Our sounding was from 20 to 13 fathoms, an even sandy bottom. We saw
some Canoes or Boats in shore, and several houses upon the Land, but no
harbour or Convenient watering place--the Main thing we were looking for.
In the night had little wind, and Sometimes Calm with Dirty, rainy
weather. A.M. had Variable light Airs next to a Calm and fair weather. In
the morning, being not above 2 Leagues from the South-West corner of the
great Bay we have been in for the 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boat
were hoisted out in order to search for Fresh Water; but just as they