Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
were ready to put off we observed several Boats full of People coming off
from the Shore, and for that reason I did not think it prudent to send
our own from the Ship. The first that came were 5 in Number, in them were
between 80 and 90 men. Every Method was tried to gain their Friendship,
and several things were thrown overboard to them; but all we could do was
to no purpose, neither would they accept of any one thing from us, but
seem'd fully bent on attacking us. In order to prevent this, and our
being obliged to fire upon them, I order'd a 4 Pounder Loaded with grape
to be fir'd a little wide of them, letting them know at the same time by
Means of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the desir'd effect, and
not one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship.
Soon after 4 more came off; one of these put what Arms they had into
another Boat, and then came alongside so near as to take what things we
gave them, and I believe might have been Prevailed upon to come on board
had not some of the first 5 came up under our Stern and began again to
threaten us, at which the people in this one Boat seem'd displeased;
immediately after this they all went ashore. At Noon Latitude in per
Observation 39 degrees 37 minutes South. Portland bore by our run from it
East by North, distant 14 Leagues; the Southermost land in sight, and
which is the South point of the Bay, South-East by South, distant 4 or 5
Leagues; and a Bluff head lying in the South-West corner of the Bay South
by West 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluff head is a low narrow
sand or stone beach; between these beaches and the Main land is a pretty
large lake of Salt Water, as I suppose. On the South-East side of this
head is a very large flatt, which seems to extend a good way inland to
the Westward; on this flatt are Several groves of Streight, tall Trees,
but there seems to be a great Probability that the lake above mentiond
extends itself a good way into this flatt Country. Inland are a Chain of
Pretty high Mountains extending North and South; on the Summits and Sides
of these Mountains were many Patches of Snow, but between them and the
Sea the Land is Cloathed with wood.* (* The Endeavour was now off what is
called Ahuriri Bay. The bluff head is known as Ahuriri Bluff, and the
town of Napier, of 8000 inhabitants, lies at the back of it. The large
sheet of salt water is called Manganui-o-rotu. There was no sheltered
harbour for a vessel in the Endeavour's situation, but at present,
harbour works have improved the entrance to the lagoon into which vessels
drawing 12 feet can enter. Produce of the value of over a million pounds
per annum is now exported from Napier.)
[In Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 15th. P.M. stood over for the Southermost Land or South point of
the Bay, having a light breeze at North-East, our soundings from 12 to 8
fathoms. Not reaching this point before dark, we stood Off and on all
night, having Variable light Airs next to a Calm; depth of water from 8
to 7 fathoms; Variation 14 degrees 10 minutes East. At 8 a.m., being
abreast of the South-West point of the Bay, some fishing Boats came off
to us and sold us some stinking fish; however it was such as they had,
and we were glad to enter into Traffick with them upon any Terms. These
People behaved at first very well, until a large Arm'd boat, wherein were
22 Men, came alongside. We soon saw that this Boat had nothing for
Traffick, yet as they came boldly alongside we gave them 2 or 3 pieces of
Cloth, Articles they seem'd the most fond off. One Man in this Boat had
on him a black skin, something like a Bear Skin, which I was desirous of
having that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the first
Owner was. I offer'd him for it a piece of Red Cloth, which he seem'd to
jump at by immediately putting off the Skin and holding it up to us, but
would not part with it until he had the Cloth in his possession and after
that not at all, but put off the Boat and went away, and with them all
the rest. But in a very short time they return'd again, and one of the
fishing Boats came alongside and offer'd us some more fish. The Indian
Boy Tiata, Tupia's Servant, being over the side, they seiz'd hold of him,
pull'd him into the Boat and endeavoured to carry him off; this obliged
us to fire upon them, which gave the Boy an opportunity to jump
overboard. We brought the Ship too, lower'd a Boat into the Water, and
took him up unhurt. Two or 3 paid for this daring attempt with the loss
of their lives, and many more would have suffer'd had it not been for
fear of killing the Boy. This affair occasioned my giving this point of
land the name of Cape Kidnapper. It is remarkable on account of 2 White
rocks in form of Haystacks standing very near it. On each side of the
Cape are Tolerable high white steep Cliffs, Latitude 39 degrees 43
minutes South; Longitude 182 degrees 24 minutes West; it lies South-West
by West, distant 13 Leagues from the Island of Portland. Between them is
a large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 days past; this Bay I have
named Hawkes Bay in Honour of Sir Edward, first Lord of the Admiralty; we
found in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathoms, everywhere good Anchoring. From
Cape Kidnapper the Island Trends South-South-West, and in this direction
we run along shore, keeping about a League off, having a steady breeze
and Clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us North 9 degrees
East, distant 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight South 25
degrees West Latitude in Per Observation 39 degrees 50 minutes South.
Monday, 16th. First and latter part, fresh breezes, Northerly; in the
night, Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 p.m. passed by a Small but a
Pretty high white Island lying close to the Shore. On this Island we saw
a good many Houses, Boats, and Some People. We concluded that they must
be fishers, because the Island was quite barren; we likewise saw several
people upon the Shore in a small Bay on the Main within the Island. At 7
the Southermost land in sight bore South-West by South, and Cape
Kidnapper North 3/4 East, distant 8 leagues, being then about 2 Leagues
from the Shore, and had 55 fathoms. At 11 brought too until daylight,
then made Sail along shore to the Southward. At 7 passed a pretty high
point of Land, which lies South-South-West, 12 Leagues from Cape
Kidnapper. From this point the Land Trends 3/4 of a point more to the
Westward. At 10 saw more land appear to the Southward, at South-West by
South. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore South 39 degrees West,
distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high Bluff head with Yellowish Cliffs bore
West, distant 2 miles, Latitude observed 40 degrees 34 minutes South;
depth of water 32 fathoms.
[Returning North from Cape Turnagain.]
Tuesday, 17th. P.M. winds at West, a fresh breeze; in the night, Variable
light Airs and Calm; a.m. a Gentle breeze between the North-West and
North-East. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a Harbour, and the face
of the Country Visibly altering for the worse, I thought that the
standing farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuable
discovery, but would be loosing of Time, which might be better employ'd
and with a greater Probability of success in examining the Coast to the
Northward. With this View, at 1 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Northward,
having the Wind at West, a fresh breeze.* (* If Cook had known the exact
shape of New Zealand, he could scarcely have taken a better resolve, in
view of saving time, than to turn northward again when he did.) At this
time we could see the land extending South-West by South, at least 10 or
12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off at
Noon I have called Cape Turnagain because here we returned. It lies in
the Latitude of 40 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 182 degrees 55
West, and 18 Leagues South-South-West and South-South-West 1/2 West from
Cape Kidnapper. The land between them is of a very unequal height; in
some places it is high, with White Cliffs next the Sea--in others low,
with sandy beaches. The face of the Country is not nearly so well
Cloathed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay, but for the most part looks
like our high Downs in England, and to all appearance well inhabited, for
we saw several Villages as we run along shore, not only in the Vallies,
but on the Tops and sides of the Hills, and Smokes in other places. The
ridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southward farther than
we could see, and are every where Checquer'd with Snow. This night saw 2
Large fires up in the inland Country, a sure sign that it must be
inhabited. At Noon Cape Kidnapper bore North 56 degrees West, distant 7
Leagues; latitude observed 39 degrees 52 minutes South.
Wednesday, 18th. Variable light winds and fine weather. At 4 a.m. Cape
Kidnapper bore North 32 degrees West, distant 2 Leagues. In this
situation had 62 fathoms; and when the said Cape bore West by North,
distant 3 or 4 Leagues, had 45 fathoms; Midway between the Isle of
Portland and Cape Kidnapper had 65 fathoms. At Noon the Isle of Portland
bore North-East 1/2 East, distant 4 Leagues; latitude observ'd 39 degrees
34 minutes South.
Thursday, 19th. The first part had Gentle breezes at East and
East-North-East; in the night, fresh Gales between the South and
South-West; dark, Cloudy weather, with Lightning and rain. At 1/2 past 5
P.M. Tack'd and stood to the South-East: the Isle of Portland bore
South-East, distant 3 Leagues. Soon after we Tacked a boat or Canoe came
off from the Shore, wherein were 5 People. They came on board without
shewing the least signs of fear, and insisted upon staying with us the
whole night; indeed, there was no getting them away without turning them
out of the Ship by force, and that I did not care to do; but to prevent
them playing us any Trick I hoisted their Canoe up alongside. Two
appear'd to be Chiefs, and the other 3 their Servants. One of the Chiefs
seem'd to be of a free, open, and Gentle disposition; they both took
great notice of everything they saw, and was very thankful for what was
given them. The 2 Chiefs would neither Eat nor Drink with us, but the
other 3 Eat whatever was offer'd them. Notwithstanding that these people
had heard of the Treatment the others had meet with who had been on board
before, yet it appear'd a little strange that they should place so much
Confidence in us as to put themselves wholy in our power wether we would
or no, especially as the others we had meet with in this bay had upon
every occasion behaved in quite a different manner. At 11 brought too
until daylight (the night being dark and rainy), then made sail. At 7
a.m. brought too under Cape Table, and sent away the Indian Canoe. At
this Time some others were putting off from the Shore, but we did not
wait their coming, but made sail to the Northward. At Noon the
Northermost land in sight North 20 degrees East, and Young Nicks head, or
the South point of Poverty Bay, West-Northerly, near 4 Leagues. Latitude
observed 38 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds South.
Friday, 20th. P.M. a fresh breeze at South-South-West; in the night,
variable light breezes, with rain; A.M. a fresh breeze at South-West. At
3 p.m. passed by a remarkable head, which I called Gable end Foreland on
account of the very great resemblance the white cliff at the very point
hath to the Gable end of a House. It is made still more remarkable by a
Spir'd Rock standing a little distance from it. This head land lies from
Cape Table North 24 degrees East, distant 12 Leagues. Between them the
Shore forms a Bay, wherein lies Poverty Bay, 4 Leagues from the former
and 8 Leagues from the Latter. From Gable end Foreland the land trends
North by East as far as we could see. The land from Poverty Bay to this