Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
place is of a moderate but very unequal height, distinguished by Hills
and Vallies that are Cover'd with woods. We saw, as we run along shore,
several Villages, cultivated lands, and some of the Natives. In the
evening some Canoes came off to the Ship, and one Man came on board to
whom we gave a few Trifles and then sent him away. Stood off and on until
daylight, and then made sail in shore in order to look into 2 Bays that
appear'd to our view about 2 Leagues to the Northward of the Foreland.
The Southermost we could not fetch, but in the other we Anchor'd about 11
o'Clock in 7 fathoms, a black sandy bottom. The North point bore
North-East 1/2 North, distant 2 Miles, and the South Point South-East by
East, distant one Mile, and about 3/4 of a Mile from the Shore. This Bay
is not so much Shelter'd from the Sea as I at first thought it was; but
as the Natives, many of whom came about us in their Canoes, appear'd to
be of a friendly disposition, I was willing to try if we could not get a
little water on board, and to see a little into the Nature of the Country
before we proceeded further to the Northward.
Saturday, 21st. We had no sooner come to an Anchor, as mentioned above,
than perceiving 2 old Men in the Canoes, who from their Garbe appear'd to
be Chiefs, these I invited on board, and they came without Hesitation. To
each I gave about 4 Yards of linnen and a Spike Nail; the linnen they
were very fond of, but the Nails they seem'd to set no Value upon. Tupia
explain'd to them the reasons of our Coming here, and that we should
neither hurt nor Molest them if they did but behave in the same peaceable
manner to us; indeed, we were under very little apprehension but what
they would, as they had heard of what hapned in Poverty Bay. Between 1
and 2 p.m. I put off with the Boats mann'd and Arm'd in order to land to
look for fresh Water, these 2 Men along with us; but the surf running
very high, and it begun to blow and rain at the same time, I returned
back to the Ship, having first put the 2 Chiefs into one of their Canoes.
In the evening it fell moderate, and we landed and found 2 Small Streams
of Fresh Water, and the Natives to all appearance very friendly and
peaceable; on which account I resolved to Stay one day at least, to fill
a little water and to give Mr. Banks an opportunity to Collect a little
of the Produce of the Country. In the morning Lieutenant Gore went on
shore to superintend the Watering with a Strong party of Men, but the
getting the Casks off was so very difficult, on account of the Surf, that
it was noon before one Turn came on board.
[At Tegadoo Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 22nd. P.M. light breezes and Cloudy. About or a little after Noon
several of the Natives came off to the Ship in their Canoes and began to
Traffick with us, our people giving them George's Island Cloth for
theirs, for they had little else to dispose of. This kind of exchange
they seem'd at first very fond of, and prefer'd the Cloth we had got at
the Islands to English Cloth; but it fell in its value above 500 p. ct.
before night. I had some of them on board, and Shew'd them the Ship, with
which they were well pleased. The same friendly disposition was observed
by those on shore, and upon the whole they behaved as well or better than
one could expect; but as the getting the Water from the Shore proved so
very Tedious on account of the Surf, I resolved upon leaving this place
in the morning, and accordingly, at 5 a.m., we weighed and put to Sea.
This Bay is called by the Natives Tegadoo;* (* Anaura Bay.) it lies in
the Latitude of 38 degrees 16 minutes South, but as it hath nothing to
recommend it I shall give no discription of it. There is plenty of Wild
Sellery, and we purchased of the Natives 10 or 15 pounds of sweet
Potatoes. They have pretty large plantations of these, but at present
they are scarce, it being too Early in the Season. At Noon the Bay of
Tegadoo bore West 1/2 South, distant 8 Leagues, and a very high double
peak'd Mountain some distance in land bore North-West by West. Latitude
observed 38 degrees 13 minutes South; Wind at North, a fresh Gale.
Monday, 23rd. P.M. fresh Gales at North, and Cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd
and stood in shore; at 6 Sounded, and had 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom;
the Bay of Tegadoo bore South-West 1/2 West, distance 4 Leagues. At 8
Tack'd in 36 fathoms, being then about 2 Leagues from land; stood off and
on all night, having Gentle breezes. At 8 a.m., being right before the
Bay of Tegadoo and about a League from it, some of the Natives came off
to us and inform'd us that in a Bay a little to the Southward (being the
same that we could not fetch the day we put into Tegadoo) was fresh Water
and easey getting at it; and as the wind was now against us, and we
gain'd nothing by beating to windward, I thought the time would be better
spent in this Bay* (* Tolaga.) in getting on board a little water, and
forming some Connections with the Natives, than by keeping the Sea. With
this view we bore up for it, and sent 2 Boats in, Mann'd and Arm'd, to
Examine the Watering Place, who returned about noon and conform'd the
account the Natives had given. We then Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, fine sandy
bottom; the North point of the Bay North by East and the South point
South-East, and the watering place, which was in a Small Cove a little
within the South point of the Bay, distance one Mile.
Tuesday, 24th. Winds Westerly and fine weather. This afternoon, as soon
as the Ship was moor'd, I went ashore to Examine the watering place,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. I found the Water good and the
Place pretty Convenient, and plenty of Wood close to high Water Mark, and
the Natives to all appearance not only very friendly but ready to
Traffick with us for what little they had. Early in the morning I sent
Lieutenant Gore ashore to Superintend the Cutting wood and filling of
Water, with a Sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the
Marines as a Guard. After breakfast I went myself, and remain'd there the
whole day; but before this Mr. Green and I took several observations of
the Sun and Moon. The mean result of them gave 180 degrees 47 minutes
West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich; but as all the
observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down this Coast
agreeable to the means of the whole. At noon I took the Sun's Meridian
Altitude with the Astronomical Quadrant, and found the Latitude 38
degrees 22 minutes 24 seconds South.
Wednesday, 25th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M. set up the
Armourer's Forge to repair the Tiller braces, they being broke. By night
we had got on board 12 Tons of Water and two or 3 Boats' loads of Wood,
and this I looked upon to be a good day's work. The Natives gave us not
the least disturbance, but brought us now and then different sorts of
Fish out to the Ship and Watering place, which we purchased of them with
Cloth, beads, etc.
Thursday, 26th. P.M. had the winds from between the South and South-West,
fair weather; the remainder, rainy, dirty weather. Notwithstanding we
continued getting on board Wood and Water.
Friday, 27th. Winds at South-West; first part rainy weather, the
remainder fair. A.M. sent the Pinnace to drudge, but she met with no
success; after this, I went and sounded the Bay. I made a Shift to land
in 2 Places, the first time in the bottom of the bay, where I went a
little way into the Country, but met with nothing extraordinary. The
other place I landed at was at the North point of the Bay, where I got as
much Sellery and Scurvy grass as loaded the Boat. This day we compleated
our Water to 70 Tons, but not wood Enough.
Saturday, 28th. Gentle breezes Southerly and fine weather. Employ'd
wooding, cutting, and making of Brooms, there being a Shrub here very fit
for that purpose; and as I intended to sail in the morning some hands
were employ'd picking of Sellery to take to Sea with us. This is found
here in great plenty, and I have caused it to be boiled with Portable
Soup and Oatmeal every morning for the people's breakfast; and this I
design to continue as long as it will last, or any is to be got, and I
look upon it to be very wholesome and a great Antiscorbutick.
[At Tolaga Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]
Monday, 29th. P.M. Gentle breezes with Thunder and Lightning up the
Country; in the night had light Airs off the land and very foggy; in the
forenoon had a gentle breeze at North-North-East and Clear weather. At 4
a.m. unmoor'd, and at 6 weigh'd and put to Sea. At Noon the bay sail'd
from bore North 63 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. This bay is called by
the Natives Tolaga;* (* It still goes by this name.) it is moderately
large, and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathoms, clean sandy bottom and
good Anchorage, and is shelterd from all winds except those that blow
from the North-East Quarter. It lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 22
minutes South, and 4 1/2 Leagues to the Northward of Gable end Foreland.
Off the South point lies a small but high Island, so near to the Main as
not to be distinguished from it. Close to the North end of this Island,
at the Entrance into the Bay, are 2 high Rocks; one is high and round
like a Corn Stack, but the other is long with holes thro' it like the
Arches of a Bridge. Within these rocks is the Cove, where we cut wood and
fill'd our Water. Off the North point of the Bay is a pretty high rocky
Island, and about a Mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The
variation of the Compass is here 14 degrees 31 minutes East, and the Tide
flows at full and change of the Moon about 6 o'Clock, and rises and falls
upon a Perpendicular 5 or 6 feet, but wether the flood comes from the
Southward or Northward I have not been able to determine.
During our stay in this bay we had every day more or less Traffick with
the Natives, they bringing us fish, and now and then a few sweet Potatoes
and several trifles which we deemd Curiosities; for these we gave them
Cloth, Beads, Nails, etc. The Cloth we got at King George's Island and
Ulietea, they valued more than anything we could give them, and as every
one in the Ship were provided with some of this sort of Cloth, I suffer'd
every body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation; for by
this means I knew that the Natives would not only sell but get a good
Price for every thing they brought. This I thought would induce them to
bring to Market whatever the Country afforded, and I have great reason to
think that they did, yet it amounted to no more than what is above
mentioned. We saw no 4 footed Animals, either Tame or Wild, or signs of
any, except Dogs and Rats,* (* Cook's powers of observation are here
evident. There were no other quadrupeds in New Zealand.) and these were
very Scarce, especially the latter. The flesh of the former they eat, and
ornament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs, etc.
While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to View the
Country, but when I came there I could see but very little of it, the
sight being interrupted by still higher hills. The Tops and ridges of the
Hills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them but
fern; but the Valleys and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriously
clothed with woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Natives
lying dispers'd up and down the Country. We found in the Woods, Trees of
above 20 different sorts; Specimens of each I took on board, as all of
them were unknown to any of us. The Tree which we cut for firing was
something like Maple and yeilded a whitish Gum. There was another sort of
a deep Yellow which we imagin'd might prove useful in dying. We likewise
found one Cabage Tree* (* Palm.) which we cut down for the sake of the