Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
cabage. The Country abounds with a great Number of Plants, and the woods
with as great a variety of beautiful birds, many of them unknown to us.
The soil of both the hills and Valleys is light and sandy, and very
proper for producing all kinds of Roots, but we saw only sweet potatoes
and Yams among them; these they plant in little round hills, and have
plantations of them containing several Acres neatly laid out and keept in
good order, and many of them are fenced in with low paling which can only
serve for Ornament.
Monday, 30th. P.M. little wind and cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd and stood
in shore; at 7 o'Clock Tolaga Bay bore West-North-West, distant one
League. Tack'd and lay her head off; had it calm until 2 a.m., when a
breeze sprung up at South-West, and we made Sail to the Northward. At 6,
Gable end Foreland bore South-South-West, and Tolaga bay South-South-West
1/4 West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, being about 2 Miles from the shore,
some Canoes that were fishing came after the Ship; but we having a fresh
of wind they could not come up with us, and I did not chuse to wait for
them. At Noon, Latitude per observation 37 degrees 49 minutes South, a
small Island lying off the Northernmost land in sight, bore North 16
degrees East, distant 4 Miles; course from Tolaga bay North by East 1/2
East, distance 13 Leagues. The Land from thence is of a moderate but
unequal height, forming several small bays wherein are sandy beaches.
Hazey, cloudy weather prevented us from seeing much of the inland
country, but near the Shore we could see several Villages and Plantations
of the Natives. Soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms.
[Off Cape Runaway, North Island, New Zealand.]
Tuesday, 31st. At half-past one p.m. hauled round the Island above
mentioned, which lies East 1 Mile from the North-East point of the land.
The lands from hence Trends North-West by West, and West-North-West, as
far as we could see. This point of Land I have called East Cape, because
I have great reason to think that it is the Eastermost land on this whole
Coast; and for the same reason I have called the Island which lays off
it, East Island. It is but of a small circuit, high and round, and
appears white and barren. The Cape is of a moderate height with white
cliffs, and lies in the Latitude of 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds
South, and Longitude 181 degrees 00 minutes West from the Meridian of
Greenwich. After we had rounded the East Cape we saw, as we run along
shore, a great number of Villages and a great deal of Cultivated land;
and in general the country appear'd with more fertility than what we had
seen before; it was low near the Sea, but hilly inland. At 8, being 8
leagues to the Westward of Cape East, and 3 or 4 miles from the shore,
shortned sail and brought too for the night, having at this Time a fresh
Gale at South-South-East and squally weather; but it soon fell moderate,
and at 2 a.m. made Sail again to the South-West as the land now Trended.
At 8 saw land which made like an Island bearing West. At the same time
the South-Westermost part of the Main bore South-West. At 9, five Canoes
came off to us, in one of which were upwards of 40 Men all Arm'd with
Pikes, etc.; from this and other Circumstances it fully appear'd that
they came with no friendly intentions; and I at this Time being very
buisey, and had no inclination to stay upon deck to watch their Motions,
I order'd a Grape shot to be fir'd a little wide of them. This made them
pull off a little, and then they got together either to consult what to
do or to look about them. Upon this I order'd a round shott to be fir'd
over their heads, which frightend them to that degree that I believe they
did not think themselves safe until they got ashore. This occasion'd our
calling the Point of land off which this hapned, Cape Runaway. Latitude
37 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 50 minutes West, and
17 or 18 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape. 4 Leagues to the Westward
of East Cape is a bay which I have named Hicks's bay, because Lieutenant
Hicks was the first who discover'd it.
[November 1769.]
Wednesday, 1st November. P.M., as we stood along shore (having little
wind, and Variable), we saw a great deal of Cultivated land laid out in
regular inclosures, a sure sign that the Country is both fertile and well
inhabited. Some Canoes came off from the shore, but would not come near
the Ship. At 8 brought to 3 Miles from the Shore, the land seen yesterday
bearing West, and which we now saw was an Island, bore South-West,* (*
This should evidently be North-West.) distant 8 leagues. I have named it
White Island,* (* White Island is an active volcano. It was evidently
quiescent at the time of the Endeavour passing.) because as such it
always appear'd to us. At 5 a.m. made Sail along shore to the South-West,
having little wind at East-South-East and Cloudy weather. At 8 saw
between 40 and 50 Canoes in shore. Several of them came off to the Ship,
and being about us some time they ventur'd alongside and sold us some
Lobsters, Muscels, and 2 Conger Eales. After these were gone some others
came off from another place with Muscels only, and but few of these they
thought proper to part with, thinking they had a right to everything we
handed them into their Canoes without making any return. At last the
People in one Canoe took away some linnen that was towing over the side,
which they would not return for all that we could say to them. Upon this
I fir'd a Musket Ball thro' the Canoe, and after that another musquet
load with Small Shott, neither of which they minded, only pulled off a
little, and then shook their paddles at us, at which I fir'd a third
Musquet; and the ball, striking the Water pretty near them, they
immediately apply'd their Paddles to another use; but after they thought
themselves out of reach they got altogether, and Shook their Paddles
again at us. I then gave the Ship a Yaw, and fir'd a 4 Pounder. This sent
them quite off, and we keept on our course along shore, having a light
breeze at East-South-East. At noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees
55 minutes, White Island bearing North 29 degrees West, distant 8
Leagues.
Thursday, 2nd. Gentle breezes from North-West round Northerly to
East-South-East and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw a pretty high Island
bearing West from us, and at 5 saw more Islands and Rocks to the Westward
of it. Hauld our wind in order to go without them, but, finding that we
could not weather them before dark, bore up, and run between them and the
Main. At 7 was close under the first Island, from whence a large double
Canoe full of People came off to us. This was the first double Canoe we
had seen in this Country. They staid about the Ship until it was dark,
then left us; but not before they had thrown a few stones. They told us
the name of the Island, which was Mowtohora.* (* Motuhora, called also
Whale Island.) It is but of a small Circuit, but high, and lies 6 Miles
from the Main. Under the South side is Anchorage in 14 fathoms.
South-West by South from this Island on the Main land, seemingly at no
great distance from the Sea, is a high round Mountain, which I have named
Mount Edgcombe. It stands in the middle of a large Plain, which make it
the more Conspicuous. Latitude 37 degrees 59 minutes South, Longitude 183
degrees 07 minutes West. In standing to the Westward we Shoalded our
Water from 17 to 10 fathoms, and knowing that we were not far from some
Small Islands and Rocks that we had seen before dark, after Passing of
which I intended to have brought too for the night, but I now thought it
more prudent to tack, and spend the Night under the Island of Mowtohora,
where I knew there was no danger. And it was well we did, for in the
morning, after we had made Sail to the Westward, we discovered Rocks
ahead of us Level with and under the Water.* (* Rurima Rocks.) They lay 1
1/2 Leagues from the Island Mowtohora, and about 9 Miles from the Main,
and North-North-East from Mount Edgecumbe. We passed between these Rocks
and the Main, having from 7 to 10 fathoms. The double Canoe which we saw
last night follow'd us to-day under Sail, and keept abreast of the Ship
near an hour talking to Tupia, but at last they began to pelt us with
stones. But upon firing one Musquet they dropt aStern and left us. At 1/2
past 10 Passed between a low flat Island and the Main, the distance from
one to the other being 4 Miles; depth of Water 10, 12, and 15 fathoms. At
Noon the flat Island* (* Motunau.) bore from North-East to East 1/2
North, distance 5 or 6 Miles; Latitude in per Observation 37 degrees 39
minutes South, Longitude 183 degrees 30 minutes West. The Main land
between this and the Island of Mowtohara, which is 10 Leagues, is of a
moderate height, and all a level, flat Country, pretty clear of wood and
full of Plantations and Villiages. These Villiages are built upon
Eminences Near the Sea, and are Fortified on the land side with a Bank
and a Ditch, and Pallisaded all round. Besides this, some of them
appear'd to have out-works. We have before now observed, on several parts
of the Coast, small Villiages inclosed with Pallisades and works of this
kind built on Eminences and Ridges of hills, but Tupia had all along told
us that they were Mories, or places of worship; but I rather think they
are places of retreat or strong hold where they defend themselves against
the Attack of an Enemy, as some of them seem'd not ill design'd for that
Purpose.* (* In the contests with the Maories in after years, these Pahs,
or forts, proved to be no despicable defences.)
[In Bay of Plenty, North Island, New Zealand.]
Friday, 3rd. P.M. Fresh Gales at North-East by East and hazey weather. At
2 pass'd a small high Island lying 4 Miles from a high round head on the
Main* (* The island was Moliti; the high round head was Maunganui, which
marks the entrance to Tauranga harbour, a good port, where now stands a
small town of the same name.) from this head the land Trends North-West
as far as we could see, and appeared to be very rugged and hilly. The
weather being very hazey, and the Wind blowing fresh on shore, we hauled
off close upon a wind for the weathermost Island in sight, which bore
from us North-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Leagues. Under this Island we
spent the Night, having a fresh gale at North-East and North-East by
East, and hazey weather with rain; this Island I have called the Mayor.
At 7 a.m. it bore South 47 degrees East, distant 6 Leagues, and a Cluster
of small Islands and Rocks bore North 1/2 East, distant one League. At
the time had a Gentle breeze at East-North-East and clear weather. The
Cluster of Islands and Rocks just mentioned we named the Court of
Aldermen; they lay in the Compass of about half a League every way, and 5
Leagues from the Main, between which and them lay other Islands. The most
of them are barren rocks, and of these there is a very great Variety,
some of them are of as small a Compass as the Monument in London, and
Spire up to a much greater height; they lay in the Latitude of 36 degrees
57 minutes, and some of them are inhabited. At Noon they bore South 60
degrees East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, and a Rock like a Castle lying not
far from the Main, bore North 40 degrees West, one League. Latitude
observed 36 degrees 58 minutes South; Course and distance since Yesterday
noon is North-North-West 1/2 West, about 20 Leagues. In this Situation
had 28 fathoms water, and a great many small Islands and Rocks on every
side of us. The Main land appears here with a hilly, rugged, and barren
surface, no Plantations to be seen, nor no other signs of its being well
inhabited.
Saturday, 4th. The first and middle parts, little wind at East-North-East
and Clear weather; the Latter had a fresh breeze at North-North-West and