Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
hazey with rain. At 1 p.m. 3 Canoes came off from the Main to the Ship,
and after Parading about a little while they darted 2 Pikes at us. The
first was at one of our Men as he was going to give them a rope, thinking
they were coming on board; but the 2nd they throw'd into the Ship; the
firing of one musquet sent them away. Each of these Canoes were made out
of one large Tree, and were without any sort of Ornament, and the people
in them were mostly quite naked. At 2 p.m. saw a large op'ning or inlet
in the land, which we bore up for with an intent to come to an Anchor. At
this time had 41 fathoms, which gradually decreased to 9 fathoms, at
which time we were 1 1/2 Mile from a high Tower'd Rock lying near the
South point of the inlet; the rock and the Northermost of the Court of
Aldermen being in one bearing South 61 degrees East. At 1/2 past 7
Anchor'd in 7 Fathoms a little within the South Entrance of the Bay or
inlet. We were accompanied in here by several Canoes, who stay'd about
the Ship until dark; and before they went away they were so generous as
to tell us that they would come and attack us in the morning; but some of
them paid us a Visit in the night, thinking, no doubt, but what they
should find all hands asleep, but as soon as they found their Mistake
they went off. My reasons for putting in here were the hopes of
discovering a good Harbour, and the desire I had of being in some
convenient place to observe the Transit of Mercury, which happens on the
9th Instant, and will be wholy Visible here if the day is clear. If we be
so fortunate as to obtain this observation, the Longitude of this place
and Country will thereby be very accurately determined. Between 5 and 6
o'Clock in the morning several Canoes came off to us from all parts of
the Bay; in them were about 130 or 140 People. To all appearances their
first design was to attack us, being all Completely Arm'd in their way;
however, this they never attempted, but after Parading about the Ship
near 3 Hours, sometimes trading with us, and at other times Tricking of
us, they dispersed; but not before we had fir'd a few Musquets and one
great gun, not with any design to hurt any of them, but to shew them what
sort of Weapons we had, and that we could revenge any insult they offer'd
to us. It was observable that they paid but little regard to the Musquets
that were fir'd, notwithstanding one ball was fir'd thro' one of their
Canoes, but what Effect the great gun had I know not, for this was not
fir'd until they were going away.
[At Mercury Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]
At 10, the weather Clearing up a little, I went with 2 Boats to sound the
Bay and to look for a more convenient Anchoring place, the Master being
in one Boat, and I in the other. We pull'd first over the North Shore,
where some Canoes came out to meet us, but as we came near them they
retir'd to the Shore and invited us to follow them, but seeing they were
all Arm'd I did not think fit to Except of their Invitation; but after
Trading with them out of the Boat for a few Minutes we left them and went
towards the head of the Bay. I observed on a high Point a fortified
Village, but I could only see a part of the works, and as I intend to see
the whole, shall say no more about it at this time. After having fix'd
upon an Anchoring place not far from where the Ship lay I return'd on
board.
Sunday, 5th. Winds at North-North-West, Hazey weather with rain in the
night. At 4 p.m. weigh'd and run in nearer the South shore and Anchor'd
in 4 1/2 fathoms, a soft sandy bottom, the South point of the Bay bearing
East, distant 1 Mile, and a River (into which the boats can go at low
Water) South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Miles.* (* The bight in which the
Endeavour anchored is now known as Cook Bay.) In the morning the Natives
came off again to the Ship, but their behaviour was very different to
what it was Yesterday morning, and the little traffick we had with them
was carried on very fair and friendly. Two came on board the Ship--to
each I gave a Piece of English Cloth and some Spike Nails. After the
Natives were gone I went with the Pinnace and Long boat into the River to
haul the Sean, and sent the Master to sound the Bay and drudge for fish
in the Yawl. We hauled the Sean in several places in the River, but
caught only a few Mullet, with which we returned on board about Noon.
Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes at North-North-West, and hazey weather with
rain in the night. P.M. I went to another part of the Bay to haul the
Sean, but meet with as little Success as before; and the Master did not
get above 1/2 a Bucket full of Shells with the Drudge. The Natives
brought to the Ship, and sold to our People, small Cockles, Clams, and
Mussels, enough for all hands. These are found in great plenty upon the
Sand Banks of the River. In the morning I sent the Long boat to Trawl in
the Bay, and one Officer with the Marines and a party of men to Cut wood
and haul the Sean, but neither the Sean nor the Trawl meet with any
success; but the Natives in some measure made up for this by bringing
several Baskets of dry'd or ready dress'd fish; altho' it was none of the
best I order'd it all to be bought up in order to encourage them to
Trade.
Tuesday, 7th. The first part moderate and fair; the remainder a fresh
breeze, northerly, with dirty, hazey, raining Weather. P.M. got on board
a Long boat Load of Water, and Caught a dish of fish in the Sean. Found
here a great Quantity of Sellery, which is boild every day for the Ship's
Company as usual.
Wednesday, 8th. P.M. fresh breeze at North-North-West and hazey, rainy
weather; the remainder a Gentle breeze at West-South-West and Clear
Weather. A.M. heeld and Scrubb'd both sides of the Ship and Sent a Party
of Men ashore to Cutt wood and fill Water. The Natives brought off to the
Ship, and Sold us for Small pieces of Cloth, as much fish as served all
hands; they were of the Mackrell kind, and as good as ever was Eat. At
Noon I observ'd the Sun's Meridian Zenith distance, by the Astronomical
Quadrant, which gave the Latitude 36 degrees 47 minutes 43 seconds South;
this was in the River before mentioned, that lies within the South
Entrance of the Bay.
Thursday, 9th. Variable light breezes and Clear weather. As soon as it
was daylight the Natives began to bring off Mackrell, and more than we
well know what to do with; notwithstanding I order'd all they brought to
be purchased in order to encourage them in this kind of Traffick. At 8,
Mr. Green and I went on shore with our Instruments to observe the Transit
of Mercury, which came on at 7 hours 20 minutes 58 seconds Apparent time,
and was observed by Mr. Green only.* (* Mr. Green satirically remarks in
his Log, "Unfortunately for the seamen, their look-out was on the wrong
side of the sun." This probably refers to Mr. Hicks, who was also
observing. It rather seems, however, as if Cook, on this occasion, was
caught napping by an earlier appearance of the planet than was expected.)
I, at this time, was taking the Sun's Altitude in order to Ascertain the
time. The Egress was observed as follows:--
By Mr. Green:
Internal Contact at 12 hours 8 minutes 58 seconds Afternoon.
External Contact at 12 hours 9 minutes 55 seconds Afternoon.
By myself:
Internal Contact at 12 hours 8 minutes 45 seconds Afternoon.
External Contact at 12 hours 9 minutes 43 seconds Afternoon.
Latitude observed at noon 36 degrees 48 minutes 28 seconds, the mean of
this and Yesterday's observation gives 36 degrees 48 minutes 5 1/2
seconds South; the Latitude of the Place of Observation, and the
Variation of the Compass was at this time found to be 11 degrees 9
minutes East. While we were making these observations 5 Canoes came
alongside the Ship, 2 Large and 3 Small ones, in one were 47 People, but
in the other not so many. They were wholy strangers to us, and to all
appearance they came with a Hostile intention, being compleatly Arm'd
with Pikes, Darts, Stones, etc.; however, they made no attempt, and this
was very probable owing to their being inform'd by some other Canoes (who
at this time were alongside selling fish) what sort of people they had to
Deal with. When they first came alongside they begun to sell our people
some of their Arms, and one Man offer'd to Sale a Haahow, that is a
Square Piece of Cloth such as they wear. Lieutenant Gore, who at this
time was Commanding Officer, sent into the Canoe a piece of Cloth which
the Man had agreed to Take in Exchange for his, but as soon as he had got
Mr. Gore's Cloth in his Possession he would not part with his own, but
put off the Canoe from alongside, and then shook their Paddles at the
People in the Ship. Upon this, Mr. Gore fir'd a Musquet at them, and,
from what I can learn, kill'd the Man who took the Cloth; after this they
soon went away. I have here inserted the account of this Affair just as I
had it from Mr. Gore, but I must own it did not meet with my approbation,
because I thought the Punishment a little too severe for the Crime, and
we had now been long Enough acquainted with these People to know how to
Chastise Trifling faults like this without taking away their Lives.
Friday, 10th. P.M., Gentle breezes and Variable; the remainder, a Strong
breeze at East-North-East, and hazey weather. A.M., I went with 2 Boats,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen into the River which
Emptys itself into the head of the Bay, in order to Examine it; none of
the Natives came off to the Ship this morning, which we think is owing to
bad weather.
[Pahs in Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]
Saturday, 11th. Fresh Gales at East-North-East, and Cloudy, hazey weather
with rain. Between 7 and 8 o'Clock p.m. I returnd on board from out the
River, having been about 4 or 5 Miles up it, and could have gone much
farther had the weather been favourable. I landed on the East side and
went upon the Hills, from whence I saw, or at least I thought I saw, the
head of the River. It here branched into several Channels, and form'd a
Number of very low flat Islands, all cover'd with a sort of Mangrove
Trees, and several places of the Shores of both sides the River were
Cover'd with the same sort of wood. The sand banks were well stored with
Cockles and Clams, and in many places were Rock Oysters. Here is likewise
pretty plenty of Wild Fowl, such as Shags, Ducks, Curlews, and a Black
bird, about as big as a Crow, with a long, sharp bill of a Colour between
Red and Yellow; we also saw fish in the River, but of what sort I know
not. The Country especially on the East side is barren, and for the most
part destitute of wood, or any other signs of Fertility; but the face of
the country on the other side looked much better, and is in many places
cover'd with wood. We meet with some of the Natives and saw several more,
and Smokes a long way inland, but saw not the least signs of Cultivation,
either here or in any other part about the Bay, so that the inhabitants
must live wholy on shell and other fish, and Fern roots, which they Eat
by the way of Bread. In the Entrance of this river, and for 2 or 3 Miles
up, it is very safe and Commodious Anchoring in 3, 4, and 5 fathoms, and
Convenient places for laying a Ship aShore, where the Tide rises and
falls about 7 feet at full and Change. I could not see whether or no any
considerable fresh Water Stream came out of the Country into this river,
but there are a number of small Rivulets which come from the Adjacent
hills. [Pahs in Mercury Bay, New Zealand.] A little within the Entrance
of the River on the East side is a high point or peninsula juting out
into the River on which are the Remains of one of their Fortified towns.
The Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not have
Chose a better for a Small Number of men to defend themselves against a