Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
greater; it is strong by Nature and made more so by Art. It is only
Accessible on the land Side, and there have been cut a Ditch and a Bank
raised on the inside. From the Top of the Bank to the Bottom of the Ditch
was about 22 feet, and depth of the Ditch on the land side 14 feet; its
breadth was in proportion to its depth, and the whole seem'd to have been
done with great Judgment. There had been a row of Pickets on the Top of
the Bank, and another on the outside of the Ditch; these last had been
set deep in the ground and Sloping with their upper ends hanging over the
Ditch. The whole had been burnt down, so that it is probable that this
place had been taken and destroy'd by an Enemy. The people on this side
of the Bay seem now to have no houses or fix'd habitations, but Sleep in
the open Air, under Trees and in small Temporary shades; but to all
appearance they are better off on the other side, but there we have not
set foot. In the morning, being dirty rainy weather, I did not Expect any
of the Natives off with fish, but thinking that they might have some
ashore I sent a Boat with some Trade, who return'd about noon loaded with
Oysters, which they got in the River which is abreast of the Ship, but
saw no fish among the Natives.
Sunday, 12th. P.M. had Strong Gales at North-East, and hazey, rainy
weather; A.M. a fresh breeze at North-West, and Clear weather. In the
morning got on board a Turn of Water, and afterwards sent the Long boat
into the River for Oysters to take to sea with us; and I went with the
Pinnace and Yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, over to the
North side of the Bay in order to take a View of the Country and the
Fortified Village which stands there. We landed about a mile from it, and
were meet by the inhabitants in our way thither, who, with a great deal
of good nature and friendship, conducted us into the place and shew'd us
everything that was there.
This village is built upon a high Promontory or point on the North side
and near the head of the Bay. It is in some places quite inaccessible to
man, and in others very difficult, except on that side which faced the
narrow ridge of the hill on which it stands. Here it is defended by a
double ditch, a bank and 2 rows of Picketing, the inner row upon the
Bank; but not so near the Crown but what there was good room for men to
Walk and handle their Arms between the Picketing and the inner Ditch. The
outer Picketing was between the 2 Ditches, and laid sloping with their
upper ends hanging over the inner Ditch. The Depth of this Ditch from the
bottom to the Crown of the bank was 24 feet. Close within the inner
Plcketing was erected by strong Posts a stage 30 feet high and 40 in
length and 6 feet broad. The use of this stage was to stand upon to throw
Darts at the Assailants, and a number of Darts lay upon it for that
purpose. At right angles to this Stage and a few paces from it was
another of the same Construction and bigness; this stood likewise within
the Picketing, and was intended for the same use as the other--viz., to
stand upon to throw stones and darts upon the Enemy as they advanc'd up
the side of the Hill where lay the Main way into the place. It likewise
might be intended to defend some little outworks and hutts that lay at
the Skirts and on this side of the Hill. These outworks were not intended
as advanced Posts, but for such of the Inhabitants to live in as had not
room in the Main works, but had taken Shelter under it. Besides the works
on the land side, above described, the whole Villiage was Pallisaded
round with a line of pretty strong Picketing run round the Edge of the
hill. The ground within having not been level at first, but laid Sloping,
they had divided it into little squares and Leveled each of these. These
squares lay in the form of an Amphitheatre, and were each of them
Pallisaded round, and had communication one with another by narrow lanes
and little gateways, which could easily be stoped up, so that if an Enemy
had forced the outer Picketing he had several others to incounter before
the place could be easily reduced, supposing them to defend everyone of
the places one after another. The main way leading into this
fortification was up a very steep part of the Hill and thro' a narrow
passage about 12 feet long and under one of the Stages. I saw no door nor
gate, but it might very soon have been barricaded up. Upon the whole I
looked upon it to be very strong and well choose Post, and where a small
number of resolute men might defend themselves a long time against a vast
superior force, Arm'd in the manner as these People are. These seem'd to
be prepared against a Siege, having laid up in store an immense quantity
of Fern roots and a good many dry'd fish; but we did not see that they
had any fresh Water nearer than a brook which runs close under the foot
of a hill, from which I suppose they can at times get water, tho'
besiged, and keep it in gouards until they use it. Under the foot of the
point on which the Village stands are 2 Rocks, the one just broke off
from the Main and other detatched a little from it. They are both very
small, and more fit for Birds to inhabit than men; yet there are houses
and places of defence on each of them, and about a Mile to Eastward of
these is another of these small Fortified rocks, which communicates with
the Main by a Narrow pathway, where there is a small Villiage of the
Natives. Many works of this kind we have seen upon small Islands and
Rocks and Ridges of hills on all parts of the Coast, besides a great
number of Fortified towns, to all appearances Vastly superior to this I
have described. From this it should seem that the People must have long
and frequent Warrs, and must have been long accustomed to it, otherwise
they never would have invented such strong holds as these, the Erecting
of which must cost them immense labour, considering the Tools they have
to work with, which are only made of Wood and Stone. It is a little
strange that with such a Warlike People, as these undoubtedly are, no
Omissive weapons are found among them, such as bows and Arrows, Slings,
etc., things in themselves so easily invented, and are common in every
other part of the world. The Arms they use are long spears or Lances, a
Staff about 5 feet long. Some of these are pointed at one end like a
Serjeant's Halberd, others are round and Sharp; the other ends are broad,
something like the blade of an Oar. They have another sort about 4 1/2
feet long; these are shaped at one End like an Axe, and the other is made
with a Sharp point. They have short Truncheons about a foot long, which
they call Pattoo Pattoas; some made of wood, some of bone, and others of
Stone. Those made of wood are Variously shaped, but those made of bone
and Stone are of one shape, which is with a round handle, a broadish
blade, which is thickest in the Middle and taper'd to an Edge all round.
The use of these are to knock Men's brains out, and to kill them outright
after they are wounded; and they are certainly well contrived things for
this purpose. Besides these Weapons they Throw stones and Darts; the
Darts are 10 or 12 feet long, are made of hard wood, and are barbed at
one end. They handle all their Arms with great Agility, particularly
their long Pikes or Lances, against which we have no weapon that is an
equal match except a Loaded Musquet.
Monday, 13th. P.M., Gentle Breezes at North-West and Clear weather. After
taking a Slight View of the Country and Loaded both boats with Sellery,
which we found in Great plenty near the Sea beach, we return'd on board
about 5 o'Clock. The Long boat at the same time return'd out of the River
Loaded as deep as she could swim with Oysters. And now I intended to put
to Sea in the morning if wind and weather will permit. In the night had
the wind at South-East, with rainy, dirty, hazey weather, which continued
all day, so that I could not think of Sailing, but thought myself very
happy in being in a good Port. Samuel Jones, Seaman, having been confin'd
since Saturday last for refusing to come upon deck when all hands were
called, and afterwards refused to Comply with the orders of the officers
on deck, he was this morning punished with 12 lashes and remited back to
confinement.
Tuesday, 14th. Fresh Gales, Easterly, and rainy, Dirty weather.
Wednesday, 15th. In the evening I went in the Pinnace and landed upon one
of the Islands that lies off of the South Head of the Bay, with a view to
see if I could discover any sunken rocks or other Dangers lying before
the Entrance of the Bay, as there was a pretty large swell at this Time.
The Island we landed upon was very small, yet there were upon it a
Village, the inhabitants of which received us very friendly. This little
Village was laid out in small Oblong squares, and each pailisaded round.
The Island afforded no fresh Water, and was only accessible on one side:
from this I concluded that it was not choose for any Conveniency it could
afford them, but for its Natural Strength.
[Sail from Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]
At 7 A.M. weigh'd, with a light breeze at West, and clear weather, and
made Sail out of the Bay, steering North-East, for the Northermost of a
Number of Islands lying off the North point of the Bay. These Islands are
of Various extents, and lye Scattered to the North-West in a parallel
direction with the Main as far as we could see. I was at first afraid to
go within them, thinking that there was no safe Passage, but I afterwards
thought that we might; and I would have attempted it, but the wind,
coming to the North-West, prevented it, so that we were obliged to stand
out to Sea. At Noon was in the Latitude of 36 degrees 4 minutes South.
The Northermost Island, above mentioned, bore North, distant half a
League; the Court of Aldermen, South-East by South, distant 6 Leagues;
and the Bay Sail'd from, which I have named Mercury Bay, on account of
the observation being made there, South-West by West, distant 6 Miles.
Mercury Bay* (* At the head of Mercury Bay is a small settlement called
Whitianga.) lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 47 minutes South, and the
Longitude of 184 degrees 4 minutes West, from the Meridian of Greenwich.
It lies in South-West between 2 and 3 Leagues. There are several Islands
lying both to the Southward and Northward of it, and a Small high Island
or Rock in the Middle of the Entrance. Within this Island the depth of
water doth no were Exceed 9 or 8 fathoms; the best Anchorage is in a
sandy Bay which lies just within the South head in 5 and 4 fathoms,
bringing a high Tower Rock, which lies without the head, in one with the
head, or just shut in behind it. Here it is very Convenient Wooding and
Watering, and in the River are an immense quantity of Oysters and other
small Shell fish; and this is the only thing it is remarkable for, and
hath occasioned my giving it the Name of Oyster River. But the Snugest
and Safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay there any time
is in the River at the head of the Bay, and where there is every
conveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the South
shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any
name for this River, I have called it the River of Mangroves,* (* Still
so called.) because of the great quantity of these Trees that are found
in it. The Country on the South-East side of this River and Bay is very
barren, producing little else but Fern, and such other plants as delight
in a Poor Soil. The land on the North-West side is pretty well cover'd
with wood, the Soil more fertile, and would no doubt produce the
Necessarys of Life, was it Cultivated. However, this much must be said
against it, that it is not near so Rich nor fertile as the lands we have