Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
seen to the Southward; and the same may be said of its inhabitants, who,
although pretty numerous, are poor to the highest degree when Compar'd to
others we have seen. They have no Plantations, but live only on Fern
roots and fish; their Canoes are mean, and without ornament, and so are
their Houses, or Hutts, and in general everything they have about them.
This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are Certainly
ingaged; strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who resided
near the place where we wooded, and who Slept every night in the Open
Air, placed themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as
plainly shew'd that it was necessary for them to be always upon their
Guard. They do not own Subjection to Teeratie, the Earadehi,* (* Cook did
not realize that the New Zealanders were divided into independent
tribes.) but say that he would kill them was he to come Among them; they
confirm the Custom of Eating their Enemies, so that this is a thing no
longer to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the People
about this bay had no fix'd habitations, and we thought so then, but have
since learnt that they have strong holds--or Hippas, as they call
them--which they retire to in time of danger.
We found, thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay, a quantity
of Iron Sand, which is brought down out of the Country by almost every
little fresh-water brook. This proves that there must be of that Ore not
far inland. Neither of the Inhabitants of this Place, nor any other where
we have been, know the use of Iron or set the least Value upon it,
preferring the most Trifling thing we could give them to a Nail, or any
sort of Iron Tools. Before we left this bay we cut out upon one of the
Trees near the Watering Place the Ship's Name, date, etc., and, after
displaying the English Colours, I took formal possession of the place in
the Name of His Majesty.
[Off Cape Colville, North Island, New Zealand.]
Thursday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the North-West and South-West, and
fair weather. At 1 P.M., having got within the Group of Islands which
lies of the North head of Mercury Bay, hauld our wind to the Northward,
and Kept plying to windward all the day between these Islands and some
others laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Main
land, the Extream North-West point of which we could see, at Noon, bore
West by North, distant 6 or 8 Leagues; Latitude in Per Observation 36
degrees 33 minutes South.
Note, in speaking of Mercury Bay, I had forgot to mention that the
Mangrove Trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like
Rosin. Something of this kind, I am told, is found in both the East and
West Indies. We found it, at first, in small Lumps upon the Sea Beach,
but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove Trees, and by that means
found out from whence it came.
Friday, 17th. The fore and Middle parts had fresh Gales between the
South-West and West by South, and Squally. Kept plying to windward in
order to get under the land. At 6 A.M. fetched close under the lee of the
Northernmost Island in sight, then Tackd and Stood to the Southward until
11, when we tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At this time the North
head of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, bore South-East by East, distant 3
Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the Main land,
and abreast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour;* (* Probably
Waikawau Bay) but the heavy squalls which we had from the Land would not
permit us to take a nearer View of it, but soon brought us under our
Close reeft Topsails. At Noon Point Mercury bore South-East, distant 4
Leagues, and the weathermost point of the Main land in sight bore North
60 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Over the North-West side of Mercury
Bay is a pretty high round hill, rising sloping from the Shore of the
Bay. This hill is very conspicuous from where we now are.
Saturday, 18th. First part strong Gales at South-West and
South-South-West, with heavy squalls: in the morning had Gentle breezes
at South and South-East, towards noon had Whifling light Airs all round
the Compass. Kept plying to windward under close Reeft Topsails until
daylight, at which time we had got close under the Main, and the wind
coming at South-East we made sail and steer'd North-West by West, as the
land lays, keeping close in shore. At 6 we passed a small Bay* (* Charles
Cove.) wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage, and pretty good Shelter
from the Sea Winds, at the Entrance of which lies a Rock pretty high
above water. 4 Miles farther to the West-North-West is a very Conspicuous
promontory or point of land which we got abreast of about 7 o'Clock; it
lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 26 minutes South and North 48 degrees
West, 9 Leagues from Point Mercury. From this point the Land trends West
1/2 South near one League, then South-South-East as far as we could see.
Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the
South-West as far as North-West, but whether this was the Main or Islands
was not possible for us at this Time to determine; the fear of loosing
the Main land determin'd me to follow its direction. With this View we
hauld round the point* (* Cape Colville.) and Steer'd to the Southward,
but meeting with Whifling light Airs all round the Compass, we made but
little progress untill noon, when we found ourselves by Observation in
the Latitude of 36 degrees 29 minutes South; a small Island* (* Channel
Island.) which lays North-West 4 Miles from the Promontory
above-mentioned bore North by East, distant 6 1/2 Miles, being at this
time about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land 2 large
Canoes came off to us; in one of them were 62 people; they staid about us
some time, then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fir'd a
Musquet ball thro' one of the Canoes. After this they retir'd ashore.
Sunday, 19th. At 1 p.m. a breeze sprung up at East, which afterwards came
to North-East, and with it we steer'd along shore South by East and
South-South-East, having from 25 to 18 fathoms Water. At 1/2 past 7,
having run 7 or 8 Leagues since Noon, we Anchor'd in 23 fathoms, not
choosing to run any farther in the Dark, having the land on both sides of
us forming the Entrance of a Streight, Bay or River, lying in South by
East, for on that point of the Compass we could see no land. At daylight
A.M., the wind being still favourable, we weighed and run under an Easy
sail up the inlet, keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got
under Sail 3 large Canoes came off to the Ship, and several of the people
came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their
having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated
the Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present, and
after about an Hour's stay they went away well Satisfied. After having
run 5 Leagues from the place where we Anchor'd last night our Depth of
Water gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and into less I did not choose to
go, and as the wind blew right up the inlet and tide of flood, we came to
an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell, which is here about 11
Miles over, and after this sent 2 Boats to sound, the one on one side and
the other on the other side.
[At Frith of Thames, North Island, New Zealand.]
Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. At 2
p.m. the boats return'd from sounding, not having found above 3 feet more
water than were we now lay; upon this I resolved to go no farther with
the Ship but to examine the head of the Bay in the Boat, for as it
appeard to run a good way inland, I thought this a good opportunity to
see a little of the interior part of the Country and its produce.
Accordingly at daylight in the morning I set out with the Pinnace and
Long boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. We found the
inlet end in a River, about 9 miles above the Ship, into which we Enter'd
with the first of the flood, and before we had gone 3 Miles up it found
the Water quite fresh. We saw a number of Natives and landed at one of
their Villages, the inhabitants of which received us with open Arms. We
made but a Short stay with them but proceeded up the river until near
Noon, when finding the face of the country to continue pretty much the
same, and no alteration in the Course or stream of the River or the least
probability of seeing the end of it, we landed on the West side in order
to take a View of the lofty Trees which Adorn its banks, being at this
time 12 or 14 Miles within the Entrance, and here the Tide of Flood runs
as strong as it does in the River Thames below bridge.
Tuesday, 21st. After Landing as above-mention'd, we had not gone a
hundred yards into the woods before we found a Tree that girted 19 feet 8
inches, 6 feet above the ground, and having a Quadrant with me, I found
its length from the root to the first branch to be 89 feet; it was as
Streight as an Arrow and Taper'd but very little in proportion to its
length, so that I judged that there was 356 Solid feet of timber in this
Tree, clear of the branches. We saw many others of the same sort, several
of which were Taller than the one we measured, and all of them very
stout; there were likewise many other sorts of very Stout Timber Trees,
all of them wholy unknown to any of us. We brought away a few specimens,
and at 3 o'Clock we embarqued in order to return (but not before we had
named this river the Thames,* (* The flourishing town of Thames now
stands at the eastern entrance of the river: population nearly 5000. Gold
is found in the vicinity.) on account of its bearing some resemblance to
that River in England) on board with the very first of the Ebb. In our
return down the river, the inhabitants of the Village where we landed in
going, seeing that we return'd by another Channell, put off in their
Canoes and met us and Trafficked with us in the most friendly manner
immaginable, until they had disposed of the few Trifles they had. The
tide of Ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the River into the
Sea reach, as I may call it, where meeting with the flood and a Strong
breeze at North-North-West obliged us to come to a Grapnel, and we did
not reach the Ship until 7 o'Clock in the A.M. Intending to get under
Sail at high water the Long boat was sent to take up the Kedge Anchor,
but it blow'd so strong that she could not reach the Buoy, and the gale
increasing soon obliged us to vear away more Cable and Strike Top Gallant
Yards.
Wednesday, 22nd. Winds at North-North-West. The A.M. fresh Gales and
hazey with rain; the remainder, moderate and Clear. At 3 p.m. the Tide of
Ebb making, we took up our Anchors and got under Sail and ply'd down the
River until 8 o'Clock, when we again came to an Anchor in 7 fathoms,
muddy bottom. At 3 a.m. weigh'd with the first of the Ebb and keept
plying until the flood obliged us to anchor again. After this I went in
the Pinnace over to the Western Shore, but found there neither
inhabitants or anything else worthy of Note. At the time I left the Ship
a good many of the Natives were alongside and on board Trafficking with
our people for such Trifles as they had, and seem'd to behave as well as
people could do, but one of them took the 1/2 hour glass out of the
Bittacle, and was caught in the very fact, and for which Mr. Hicks, who
was Commanding Officer, brought him to the Gangway and gave him a Dozen
lashes with a Catt of nine Tails. The rest of the people seem'd not
displeased at it when they came to know what it was for, and some old man
beat the fellow after he had got into his Canoe; however, soon after this
they all went away.
Thursday, 23rd. P.M. Gentle breezes at North-North-West and fair weather.