Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Between 3 and 4 o'Clock got under Sail with the first of the Ebb and
ply'd to windward until 9 when we anchor'd in 16 fathoms over upon the
East shore. In the night had light Airs and Calm; at 3 A.M. weighed but
had little or no wind until near noon, when a light breeze sprung up at
North-North-West. At this time we were close under the West shore in 7
fathoms Water; Latitude 36 degrees 51 minutes South.
[Description of Frith of Thames, New Zealand.]
Friday, 24th. P.M., Fresh Gales and dark, Cloudy, squally weather, with
Thunder, Lightning, and rain. Winds from the North-West to the
South-West, and this last carried us by 7 o'Clock without the North-West
point of the River, but the weather being bad and having land on all
sides of us, and a Dark night coming on, I thought it most adviseable to
Tack and stretch in under ye Point where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms. At 5
a.m. weighed and made Sail to the North-West under our Courses and double
Reef'd Topsails, the wind being at South-West by West and
West-South-West, a strong Gale and Squally blowing right off the land,
which would not permit us to come near it, so that from the time of our
getting under Sail until' Noon (during which time we ran 12 Leagues) we
had but a slight and distant View of the Coast and was not able to
distinguish wether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islands
laying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main Land.* (* The
Endeavour was now in Hauraki Gulf and had passed the harbour where
Auckland now stands, which is hidden behind a number of islands.) At noon
our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds South,
being at this time not above 2 Miles from a Point of Land on the Main and
3 1/2 Leagues from a very high Island* (* Little Barrier Island, now
(1892) about to be made a reserve to protect native fauna.) which bore
North-East by East of us; in this Situation had 26 fathoms Water. The
farthest point we could see on the Main bore from us North-West, but we
could see several small Islands laying to the Northward of that
direction. The point of land we are now abreast off, I take to be the
North-West Extremity of the River Thames, for I shall comprehend under
that Name the Deep Bay we have been in for this week past, the North-East
point of which is the Promontory we past on Saturday morning last, and
which I have named Cape Colvill in honour of the Right hon'ble the Lord
Colvill;* (* Cook had served under Rear Admiral Lord Colville in
Newfoundland.) Latitude 36 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude 184
degrees 27 minutes West. It rises directly from the Sea to a Considerable
height, but what makes it most remarkable is a high Rock standing close
to the pitch of the point, and from some points of view may be
distinguished at a very great distance. From the South-West point of this
Cape the river Extends itself in a direct line South by East, and is no
where less than 3 Leagues broad until' you are 14 Leagues above the Cape,
there it is at once Contracted to a Narrow stream. From this place it
still continues the same South by East Course thro' a low flat Country or
broad Valley that lies Parrallel with the Sea Coast, the End of which we
could not see. The land on the East side of the Broadest part of this
river is Tollerable high and hilly, that on the West side is rather low,
but the whole is cover'd with woods and Verdure and looks to be pretty
fertile, but we saw but a few small places that were Cultivated. About
the Entrance of the narrow part of the River the land is mostly Cover'd
with Mangroves and other Shrubs, but farther in are immense woods of as
stout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part of the
world. In many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of the
River, but where it does not the land is Marshey such as we find about
the Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in the River
to set nets for Catching of fish; from this we immagin'd that there must
be plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not for we saw none. The
Greatest Depth of Water we found was 26 fathoms and decreaseth pretty
gradually as you run up to 1 1/2 and 1 fathom. In the mouth of the
fresh-water Stream or narrow part is 3 and 4 fathoms, but before this are
sand banks and large flatts; Yet, I believe, a Ship of a Moderate draught
of Water may go a long way up this River with a flowing Tide, for I
reckon that the Tides rise upon a perpendicular near 10 feet, and is high
water at the full and Change of the Moon about 9 o'Clock. Six Leagues
within Cape Colvill, under the Eastern Shore, are several small Islands,
these Islands together with the Main seem'd to form some good Harbours.*
(* Coromandel Harbour.) Opposite to these Islands under the Western Shore
lies some other Islands, and it appear'd very probable that these form'd
some good Harbours likewise.* (* Auckland Harbour is one of them.) But
even supposing there were no Harbours about this River, it is good
anchoring in every part of it where the depth of Water is Sufficient,
being defended from the Sea by a Chain of Large and Small Islands which I
have named Barrier Isles, lying aCross the Mouth of it extending
themselves North-West and South-East 10 Leagues. The South end of these
Islands lies North-East 4 1/2 Leagues from the North-West point of the
River, which I have named point Rodney; it lies West-North-West 9 leagues
from Cape Colvill, Latitude 36 degrees 15 minutes; Longitude 184 degrees
58 minutes West. The Natives residing about this River do not appear to
be very numerous considering the great Extent of Country; at least not
many came off to the Ship at one Time, and as we were but little ashore
ourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a Strong,
well made, active People as any we have seen yet, and all of them Paint
their Bodys with Red Oker and Oil from Head to foot, a thing that we have
not seen before. Their Canoes are large, well built and Ornamented with
Carved work in general as well as most we have seen.
Saturday, 25th. P.M., had fresh Gales at South-West, and Squally weather.
We kept standing along Shore to the North-West, having the Main land on
the one side and Islands on the other; our Soundings were from 26 to 12
fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we Anchor'd in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandy
bottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than we caught between 90 and
100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place the
Name of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay.) The 2 points which forms this Bay
lie North and South 5 Leagues from each other. The Bay is every where
pretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep; at the bottom of it their
appears to be a fresh water River.* (* Whangarei River. The district is
very fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported.) The
North head of the Bay, called Bream head, is high land and remarkable on
account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; it
lies in the Latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degrees
West, distant 17 1/2 Leagues from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise be
known by some Small Islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens,
one of which is pretty high and terminates at Top in 2 peaks. The land
between Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 Leagues, is low and
wooded in Turfs, and between the Sea and the firm land are white sand
banks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the Night, a proof that the
Country is not uninhabited. At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directed
our Course along shore to the northward, having a Gentle breeze at South
by West and Clear weather. A little after sunrise found the Variation to
be 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At Noon, our Latitude by observation
was 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream head bore South distant 10 Miles;
some small Islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North distant 3
Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, being
at this Time 2 miles from the Shore, and in this Situation had 26
fathoms; the land here about is rather low and pretty well cover'd with
wood and seems not ill inhabited.
[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 26th. P.M., Gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North,
kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5
Miles off saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands; towards evening
several Canoes came off to us, and some of the Natives ventur'd on board;
to 2, who appear'd to be Chiefs, I gave presents. After these were gone
out of the Ship, the others became so Troublesome that in order to get
rid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls, and one 4
pound Shott, but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unless
they hapned to over heat themselves in pulling on shore. In the Night had
variable light Airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, and
afterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward.
At 6 a.m. several Canoes came off from the place where they landed last
night, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had at
one time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside;
their behaviour was Tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail upon
them to Traffic with us. At noon, the Mainland Extending from South by
East to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant
4 or 5 miles. Latitude Observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.
Monday, 27th. P.M., Gentle breezes Easterly, and Clear weather. At 3
passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brett
in honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one of
the Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed.) The land of this
Cape is considerable higher than any part of the Adjacent Coast. At the
very point of the Cape is a high round Hillock, and North-East by North,
near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a hole
pierced thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge, and this was one reason why I
gave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seem'd very proper for that
of the Island. This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by the
Natives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South,
Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett is
a large and pretty deep Bay* (* The Bay of Islands.) lying in South-West
by West, in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The point
that forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it lies
West 1/4 North, 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Brett. On the South-West side of
this Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Main
land, from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of People,
but, like those that had been alongside before, would not Enter into a
friendly Traffick with us, but would Cheat whenever they had an
opportunity. The people in these Canoes made a very good appearance,
being all stout well-made men, having their Hair--which was black--comb'd
up and tied upon the Crown of their heads, and there stuck with white
feathers; in each of the Canoes were 2 or 3 Chiefs, and the Habits of
these were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The Cloth they wore
was of the best sort, and cover'd on the outside with Dog Skins put on in
such a manner as to look Agreeable enough to the Eye. Few of these people
were Tattow'd or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther to
the South, but several had their Backsides Tattow'd much in the same
manner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics. In the
Course of this day, that is this afternoon and Yesterday forenoon, we
reckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongside