Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
and on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8
Leagues of the Sea Coast, a strong proof that this part of the Country
must be well inhabited. In the Evening, the Wind came to the Westward of
North, and we Tack'd and stood off North-East until 11 o'Clock, when the
wind coming more favourable we stood again to the Westward. At 8 a.m we
were within a Mile of Groups of Islands lying close under the Mainland
and North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 Miles from Cape Brett. Here
we lay for near 2 Hours, having little or no wind. During this time
several Canoes came off to the Ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us some
fish--Cavallys as they are called--which occasioned my giving the Islands
the same name. After this some others began to Pelt us with Stones, and
would not desist at the firing of 2 Musquet Balls thro' one of their
Boats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small Shott,
after which they retir'd, and the wind coming at North-West we stood off
to Sea. At Noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4
Miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 Leagues, and the Westermost land
in sight, making like Islands, bore West by North; Latitude in per
Observation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.
Tuesday, 28th. A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which being
right in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail we
could Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close in
with the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of Cape
Brett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisaded
in the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-East
by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0
minutes South.
[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand.]
Wednesday, 29th. Fresh Gales at North-West and West-North-West, kept
plying to Windward until 7 A.M., and finding that we lost ground every
board we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for the
Bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this Time not
above 2 Leagues to Leeward of us, for by putting in there we should gain
some knowledge of it, on the Contrary, by Keeping the Sea with a Contrary
wind, we were sure of meeting with nothing new. These reasons induced me
to bear away for the Bay,* (* The Bay of Islands.) and at 11 o'Clock we
Anchor'd under the South-West side of one of the many Islands* (* Motu
Arohia.) that line the South-East side of it, in 4 1/2 fathoms; but as we
fell into this shoald water all at once, we Anchor'd sooner than was
intended, and sent the Master with 2 Boats to sound, who found that we
had got upon a Bank that spitted off from the North-West end of the
Island, and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathoms Water.
Thursday, 30th. P.M., had the winds Westerly, with some very heavy
Showers of Rain. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than between 300 and
400 of the Natives Assembled in their Canoes about the Ship; some few
were admitted on board, and to one of the Chiefs I gave a piece of Broad
Cloth and distributed a few Nails, etc., among some others of them. Many
of these People had been off to the Ship when we were at Sea, and seem'd
to be very sencible of the use of Fire Arms, and in the Trade we had with
them they behaved Tolerable well, but continued so not long, before some
of them wanted to take away the Buoy,* (* The buoy on the anchor.) and
would not desist at the firing of several Musquets until one of them was
hurt by small Shott, after which they withdrew a small distance from the
Ship, and this was thought a good opportunity to try what Effect a Great
Gun would have, as they paid so little respect to a Musquet, and
accordingly one was fir'd over their Heads. This, I believe, would have
sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia, who soon prevail'd on
them to return to the Ship, when their behaviour was such as gave us no
room to suspect that they meant to give us any farther Trouble.
After the Ship was moved into Deeper Water I went with the Pinnace and
Yawl, mann'd and Arm'd, and landed upon the Island, accompanied by Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander. We had scarce landed before all the Canoes left
the Ship and landed at different parts of the Island, and before we could
well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 300 People, and,
notwithstanding that they were all Arm'd, they came upon us in such a
confused, straggling manner that we hardly suspected that they meant us
any harm; but in this we were very soon undeceived, for upon our
Endeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up
the War dance, and immediately some of them attempted to seize the 2
Boats. Being disappointed in this, they next attempted to break in upon
us, upon which I fir'd a Musquet loaded with small Shott at one of the
Forwardest of them, and Mr. Banks and 2 of the Men fir'd immediately
after. This made them retire back a little, but in less than a minute one
of the Chiefs rallied them again. Dr. Solander, seeing this, gave him a
peppering with small Shott, which sent him off and made them retire a
Second time. They attempted to rally several times after, and only seem'd
to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last
intirely dispers'd by the Ship firing a few shott over their Heads and a
Musquet now and then from us. In this Skirmish only one or 2 of them was
Hurt with small Shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as
Possible, and for that reason withheld our people from firing. We had
observed that some had hid themselves in a Cave in one of the Rocks, and
sometime after the whole was over we went Towards them. The Chief who I
have mentioned to have been on board the Ship hapned to be one of these;
he, his wife, and another came out to meet us, but the rest made off.
Those 3 people came and sat down by us, and we gave them of such things
as we had about us. After this we went to another part of the Island,
where some of the inhabitants came to us, and were as meek as lambs.
Having taken a View of the Bay from the Island and Loaded both Boats with
Sellery, which we found here in great plenty, we return'd on board, and
at 4 A.M. hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea, with a light breeze
at East, but it soon falling Calm, obliged us to come too again, and
about 8 or 9 o'Clock, seeing no probability of our getting to Sea, I sent
the Master to Sound the Harbour. But before this I order'd Matthew Cox,
Henry Stevens, and Emanl Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each
for leaving their duty when ashore last night, and digging up Potatoes
out of one of the Plantations.* (* Cook's care to deal fairly with
natives is evinced by this punishment.) The first of the 3 I remitted
back to Confinement because he insisted that there was no harm in what he
had done. All this Forenoon had abundance of the Natives about the Ship
and some few on board. We Trafficked with them for a few Trifles, in
which they dealt very fair and friendly.
[December 1769.]
Friday, 1st December. Winds at North-North-West a Gentle breeze. At 3
p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to
the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The
place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small
Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise
several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and
Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto
met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship.
In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought
us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary,
I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in
the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and
in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the
Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.
Saturday, 2nd. Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the
remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m.
hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace
to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to
blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one
Turn of water and but a very few fish.
Sunday, 3rd. P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle
breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and
one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.
Monday, 4th. Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West;
very fair weather. P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon
one of the Islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua.) on the North side of the one
the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath
upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here
are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as
well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m.
sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut
Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a
point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the
inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed,
which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys
of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles.
After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place,
and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but
these we did not go to. We afterwards went a little way into the Country,
and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of
Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the
Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty
rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay
of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much
incumbered with wood. We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being
the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make
their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the
Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at
their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the
use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the
extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we
had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so
much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few
places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more
than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and
likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the
least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among
them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least
that we have seen.
Tuesday, 5th. P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a
fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited
another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our
Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board
a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I
still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for