Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
the Ship's Company's breakfast. At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at
South-East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near
Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not
got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes
South. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape
Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands,* (* The principal settlement
in the Bay of Islands is Russell. A little higher up the Waikare River,
at Opua, coal obtained from mines in the vicinity is shipped. At Russell,
then called Kororarika, the first settlement of missionaries was formed
in 1814 by Samuel Marsden. Here also the Government of the Island was
first established in 1840, but was soon removed to Auckland.) on account
of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several
safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water
sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the
South-West side of South-Westermost Island, that lies on the South-East
side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it
would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it;
besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with
Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment
for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish.
Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by
far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various
sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several
other sorts. Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with
Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large
made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the
same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever
saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this
fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line. The
inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we
have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another,
although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head.*
(* This district was found to be very populous when the missionaries
came.) They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of
Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature
hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people
themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change
of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls
upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I
have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea-Coast, that the flood
comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that
there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to
the South-East or South-South-East, as the Land lays.
[Sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand.]
Wednesday, 6th. P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which
we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the
evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the
tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were
very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air
from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought
ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock* (*
Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour's chart.) and went immediately clear
without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the
Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms,
but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West
from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South-East side
of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9
o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze
springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett
bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34
degrees 59 minutes South.
Thursday, 7th. P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather.
At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean
result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the
Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been
against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the
Westward.
Friday, 8th. Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West,
with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands.
They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7
Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point
Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North. We were
here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of
Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at
South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for
them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to
South-West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening
to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East.
Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 A.M., at
which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues
off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore
South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore
West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in
per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.
Saturday, 9th. P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening
came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us
pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle
Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South-West by West and
West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the
land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance
lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay
I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called
Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this
Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from
us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it
it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up
at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay
becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but
were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came
off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different
sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.
At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues,
and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and
the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the
Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees
44 minutes South.
[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 10th. Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle
breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12
degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the
Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to
the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open
Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other,
being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which
juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West
by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a
high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we
called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186
degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the
bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce
Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren
than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the
Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white
sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel
with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu
Bay.) The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs,
Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it,
which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea.* (* This
is the fact.) As barren as this land appears it is not without
inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on
the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to
the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to
the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes.
The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the
Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore
North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West
by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.
Monday, 11th. Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept
plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the
Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set
yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.
Tuesday, 12th. Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North
and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at
Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude
observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.
Wednesday, 13th. Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and
fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and
stood to the North-East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel
and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10
it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails;
at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and
stood again to North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of
the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to
blow very hard at North-North-West with heavy squalls attended with rain,
this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a
manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard.
At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At
Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the
Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the
Coast.
Thursday, 14th. Strong Gales at West and West-South-West with Squalls at
times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the
Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West,
distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses,
having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and
Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the
North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9
Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since
Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry
and repair the Damaged Sails. At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather,
Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West