Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
4 of the heads of the Men they had lately kill'd; both the Hairy Scalps
and Skin of the faces were on. Mr. Banks bought one of the 4, but they
would not part with any of the other on any account whatever. The one Mr.
Banks got had received a blow on the Temple that had broke the Skull.
This morning I set out in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander, in order to Survey the West Coast of the Bay; we took our rout
towards the head of the Bay, but it was near noon before we had got
beyond the place we had been before.
Sunday, 21st. P.M., a Gentle breeze of Wind Southerly, the remainder
light Airs and Calm with clear, settled weather. P.M., the people
employ'd as usual, and at 8 o'Clock we return'd on board the Pinnace from
surveying the bay, in the doing of which I met with an Excellent Harbour,
but saw no inhabitants or any Cultivated land. In the A.M. after hauling
the Sean for fish, I gave every body leave to go ashore at the Watering
place to amuse themselves as they thought proper.
Monday, 22nd. P.M., and in the night had variable light Airs and Calms.
A.M., had a fresh breeze Southerly and Cloudy weather. In the morning the
people were set about the necessary business of the Ship, and I set out
in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with a view of
examining the head of the inlet, but after rowing between 4 and 5 Leagues
up it, and finding no probability of reaching it, or even seeing the
end,* (* The head of Queen Charlotte's Sound is 20 miles from where the
Endeavour was lying.) the wind being against us and the day already half
spent; we landed at Noon on the South-East side in order to try to get
upon one of the Hills, to view the inlet from thence.
Tuesday, 23rd. P.M., Winds Southerly, a fresh breeze. Agreeable to what
is mentioned above I took one hand with me and Climbed up to the Top of
one of the Hills, but when I came there I was hindered from seeing up the
inlet by higher hills, which I could not come at for impenetrable woods,
but I was abundantly recompensed for the trouble I had in assending the
Hill, for from it I saw what I took to be the Eastern Sea, and a Strait
or passage from it into the Western Sea; a little to the Eastward of the
Entrance of the inlet in which we now lay with the Ship. The Main land
which lies on the South-East side of this inlet appeared to me to be a
narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form a part of the South-West
side of the Strait;* (* Cook's Strait, which divides the two islands of
New Zealand.) the land on the opposite side seem'd to tend away East, as
far as the Eye could see. To the South-East appeared an Open Sea, and
this I took to be the Eastern. I likewise saw some Islands lying on the
East side of the inlet, which before I had taken to be a part of the main
land. As soon as I had desended the hill and we had refreshed ourselves,
we set out in order to return to the Ship, and in our way passed through
and Examin'd the Harbours, Coves, etc., that lay behind the Islands above
mentioned. In this rout we met with an old Village in which were a good
many Houses, but no Body had lived in them lately; we likewise saw
another that was inhabited, but the day being so far spent, that we had
not time to go to it, but made the best of our way to the Ship, which we
reached between 8 and 9 o'Clock. In the night had much rain with Cloudy,
Hazey weather, which continued by intervals until Noon.
Wednesday, 24th. P.M., had a fresh breeze southerly and cloudy weather.
After dinner I employ'd myself in carrying on the survey of the place,
and upon one of the Islands where I landed were a number of houses but no
inhabitants, neither had any been there lately. In the morning the Gunner
was sent ashore with the remainder of the powder to-day, and the Long
boat was sent with a Gang of hands to one of the Islands to cut Grass for
our Sheep, and the rest of the people were employ'd about the usual work
of the Ship. This forenoon some of us visited the Hippa which is situated
on the point of the Island mentioned on our first arrival;* (* Motuara.)
the inhabitants of this place shew'd not the least dislike at our coming,
but, on the contrary, with a great deal of seeming good nature shew'd us
all over the place. We found among them some human bones, the flesh of
which they told us they had eat; they likewise informed us that there was
no passage into the Sea thro' this inlet, as I had imagined their was,
because above where I was in the Boat it turn'd away to the Westward.
Leaving these people, we Travelled to the other end of the Island, and
there took Water and Crossed over upon the Main, where we met with
several Houses that were at present, or had very lately been, inhabited,
but we saw but very few of the inhabitants, and these were in their Boats
fishing; after Viewing this place we returned on board to Dinner.
Thursday, 25th. Winds at North West, a Gentle breeze and fair weather.
P.M. the Long boat having return'd with a Load of Grass, she was employ'd
bringing on board Wood and Water, and the Caulkers having finished
Caulking the Ship's sides (a thing they have been employ'd upon ever
since we came here), they were pay'd with Tar. Early in the A.M. the Long
boat was sent again for Grass, and return'd at Noon with a Load.
Friday, 26th. Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. In the P.M. I made a
little Excursion in the pinnace along shore towards the Mouth of the
inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We found in a small
Cove several of the Natives, of whom we purchased a quantity of fresh
fish; and upon our return to the Ship found that the Sean had been
equally as Successfull, which we generally haul morning and evening, and
seldom fail of getting fish sufficient for all hands. In the A.M. I made
an Excursion into one of the Bays which lye on the East side of the
inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. Upon our landing we
assended a very high hill, from which we had a full View of the passage I
had before discovered, and the land on the opposite shore, which appeared
to be about 4 Leagues from us; but as it was hazey near the Horizon we
could not see far to the South-East. However, I had now seen enough of
this passage to Convince me that there was the Greatest probability in
the World of its running into the Eastern Sea, as the distance of that
Sea from this place cannot Exceed 20 Leagues even to where we where. Upon
this I resolved after putting to Sea to Search this passage with the
Ship. We found on the Top of the Hill a parcel of loose stones, of which
we built a Pyramid, and left in it some Musquet balls, small Shott,
beads, and whatever we had about us that was likely to stand the test of
Time; after this we descended the hill, and found along with Tupia and
the boat's Crew several of the Natives, setting in the most free and
friendly manner imaginable. Tupia always accompanies us in every
Excursion we make, and proves of infinate Service. In our return to the
Ship we visited the Hippa we had seen on Tuesday last, which is situated
on a small Island, or rather a Rock. The inhabitants of this place
invited us ashore with their usual Marks of Friendship, and shew'd us all
over the place; which indeed was soon done, for it was very small, yet it
contain'd a good number of people, and they had in it, Split and hanging
up to dry, a prodidgious quantity of various sorts of small fish, a part
of which they sold to us for such Trifles as we had about us.
Saturday, 27th. Fresh gales, Westerly. This day we got the Tiller
properly secured, which hath been the Employment of the Armourers and
part of the Carpenters since we Anchor'd at this place; the former in
repairing and making new Iron work, and the Latter in fixing a Transom,*
(* A transom is a curved piece of wood which supports the end of the
tiller.) for the want of which the Tiller has often been in danger of
being broke; the Iron braces that supply'd the want of a Transom have
broke every time they have been repair'd. Coopers still employ'd
repairing the Casks; some hands with the Long boat getting on board
Stones to put into the bottom of the bread room to bring the Ship more by
the Stern; while others were employ'd cutting wood, repairing the
rigging, and fishing.
Sunday, 28th. Strong Gales westerly. P.M. fair and Cloudy, the remainder
thick, hazey weather, with much rain.
Monday, 29th. Winds as yesterday. P.M. rainy weather, the remainder fair
and Cloudy. Pretty early in the A.M. an old man, who had made us several
visits upon our first Arrival here, came on board, and told us that one
of our boats had fir'd upon and wounded 2 of their people, one of which
was dead of his wounds. This affair hapned on Sunday was a week, and
never before now came to my Knowledge; on that day the Master and 5 Petty
officers desir'd to have a small boat to go a fishing; but instead of
Keeping within the usual bounds and under the protection of the Ship,
they went over to the Hippa on the Island, from which some of the
inhabitants put off in 2 Canoes, as they thought to attack them; this
Caused the Master to fire, and, according to the report of the old Man,
wounded 2, one of which is since dead; but this last circumstance was
soon after contradicted by another of the Natives, who Mr. Green and
Tupia saw ashore, and I wish this last report may be true, because I find
the reasons for firing upon them are not very Justifiable. This morning I
went out to the Mouth of the Inlet and landed upon the West point, and
from the Top of a pretty high hill which is there I had a view of this
Coast to the North-West. The farthest land I could see in that Quarter
was an Island* (* Stephens Island. Cape Stephens, off which it lies,
forms the western termination of the strait, Cook's, between the two
islands of New Zealand. The Coast between this and Cape Jackson, where
Cook was standing, is thickly indented with inlets of great extent. The
two Capes were named after the Secretaries of the Admiralty.) about 10
Leagues off, and lying pretty near the Main, and is the same as hath been
before mentioned. Between this Island and the place where I was lay some
other Islands close under the Shore, which forms several Bays, where
there appears to be safe Anchorage for Shipping. After I had set the
different points, etc., we Erected upon the Top of the Hill a Tower or
Pile of Stones, in which we left a Piece of Silver Coin, some Musquet
Balls, Beads, etc., and left flying upon it a piece of an old Pendant.
After this we return'd to the Boat, and in our way to the Ship visited
some of the Natives we met with along shore, and purchased of them a
small quantity of fish.
Tuesday, 30th. Winds at North-West, Gentle breezes, and fair weather.
Early in the A.M. a boat was sent to one of the Islands to get Sellery to
boil for the People's breakfasts. While our people were gathering it near
some empty huts about 20 of the Natives landed there--Men, Women, and
Children. They had no sooner got out of their Canoe than 5 or 6 Women set
down together, and cut and sacrificed themselves--viz., their Legs,
Shins, Arms, and Faces, some with Shells, and others with pieces of
Jaspar. So far as our people could understand them, this was done on
account of their husbands being lately killed and devoured by their
Enemies. While the women was performing this Ceremony, the Men went about
repairing the Huts without showing the least Concern. The Carpenter went
with part of his people into the Woods to cut and Square some Timber to
saw into boards for the use of the Ship, and to prepare two Posts to be
set up with inscriptions on them.
Wednesday, 31st. Little wind and Variable. In the P.M. the Carpenters
having prepared the 2 Posts with inscriptions upon them, setting forth