Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
expect the Wind from the same quarter, we keept plying from 7 to 15
Leagues from the land, depth of Water 44 to 70 fathoms; at Noon our
Latitude, by Observation, was 44 degrees 40 minutes South; Longitude made
from Banks's Island 1 degree 31 minutes West.
Saturday, 24th. Calm until 6 p.m., at which time a light breeze sprung up
at East-North-East, with which we steer'd South-South-East all night,
edging off from the Land because of a hollow swell which we had from the
South-East; depth of water from 60 to 75 fathoms. At daylight the wind
began to freshen, and before noon blowed a fresh Gale, and veer'd to
North-North-East; at 8 a.m. Saw the land extending as far as South-West
by South, which we steer'd directly for, and at Noon we were in the
Latitude of 45 degrees 22 minutes South; the land in sight extending from
South-West 1/2 South to North-North-West making high and hilly. Course
and distance run since Yesterday at Noon is South 15 degrees West, 47
Miles. In the P.M., while we lay becalm'd, Mr. Banks, in a small Boat,
shott 2 Port Egmont Hens, which were in every respect the same sort of
Birds as are found in great Numbers upon the Island of Faro; they are of
a very dark brown plumage, with a little white about the under side of
their wings, and are as large as a Muscovy Duck. These were the first
that we have seen since we arrived upon the Coast of this Country, but we
saw of them for some days before we made land.
[Off Otago, Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 25th. In the P.M. Steer'd South-West by South and South-West,
edging in for the land, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale at North,
which I was over desirous of making the most of, and by that means
carried away the Maintop Gallant Mast and Foretopmast Steering Sail Boom;
but these were soon replaced by others. Altho' we keept at no great
Distance from the Shore, yet the weather was so Hazey that we could see
nothing distinct upon the land, only that there were a ridge of Pretty
high Hills lying Parrallel with, and but a little way from, the Sea
Coast, which lies South by West and North by East, and seem'd to End in a
high Bluff point to the Southward, which we run the length of by 8
o'Clock, when, being dark, and not knowing which way the Land Trended, we
brought too for the night, having run 15 Leagues upon a South-West 1/2
West Course since Noon. The point bore at this time West, distant about 5
Miles, depth of Water 37 fathoms, the bottom small pebble stones. At 4
A.M. we made Sail, but by this time the Northerly wind was gone, and was
succeeded by one from the Southward, which proved very Var'ble and
unsteady. At day light the point above mention'd bore North, distant 3
Leagues, and we found that the land trended away from it South-West by
West, as far as we could see. This point of land I have Named Cape
Saunders, in Honour of Sir Charles* (* Admiral Sir Charles Saunders was
First Lord of the Admiralty in 1766. He commanded the fleet at the
capture of Quebec in 1759, in which Cook served.) (Latitude 45 degrees 55
minutes South; Longitude 189 degrees 4 minutes West). It requires no
discription to know it by, the Latitude and the Angle made here by the
Coast will be found quite sufficient; however, there is a remarkable
saddle hill laying near the Shore, 3 or 4 Leagues South-West of the Cape.
From 1 to 4 Leagues North of the Cape the Shore seem'd to form 2 or 3
Bays, wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage and Shelter from South-West,
Westerly, and North-West winds.* (* One of these is Otago Harbour, where
lies Dunedin, perhaps the most important commercial city in New Zealand.)
I had some thoughts of bearing up for one of these places in the morning
when the Wind came to South-West, but the fear of loosing time and the
desire I had of pushing to the Southward, in order to see as much of the
Coast as possible, or, if this land should prove to be an Island, to get
round it, prevented me. Being not far from the Shore all this morning, we
had an Opportunity of Viewing the Land pretty distinctly; it is of a
Moderate height, full of Hills, which appear'd green and Woody, but we
saw not the least signs of inhabitants. At Noon Cape Saunders bore North
30 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. Latitude per Log, for we had no
Observation, 46 degrees 0 minutes South.
Monday, 26th. In the P.M. had the wind Whifling all round the Compass,
sometimes blowing a fresh Gale, and at other times almost Calm. At 5
o'Clock it fixed at West-South-West, and soon blow'd so hard as to put us
past our Topsails, and to split the foresail all to pieces. After getting
another to the Yard, we continued standing to the Southward under 2
Courses. At 1 A.M. the wind Moderating, set the Topsails with one Reef
out; but soon after day light the Gale increased to a Storm, with heavy
Squalls, attended with rain. This brought us again under our Courses, and
the Main Topsail being Split we unbent it and bent another. At 6 o'Clock
the Southermost land in sight bore West by North, and Cape Saunders bore
North by West, distant 8 Leagues; at Noon it bore North 20 minutes West,
distant 14 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 35 minutes.
Tuesday, 27th. A very hard gale at South-West by West, and
West-South-West, with heavy squalls attended with Showers of rain, and a
large hollow sea, without the least intermission the whole of this 24
Hours. We continued under our Courses from Noon until 7 P.M., when we
handed the Mainsail, and lay too under the Foresail with the head to the
Southward. Latitude at Noon 46 degrees 54 minutes; Longitude made from
Cape Saunders 1 degree 24 minutes East.
Wednesday, 28th. Strong Gale at South-West, with a large Sea from the
Same quarter. At 7 p.m. made sail under the Courses; at 8 a.m. set the
Topsails close reefed. At Noon, being in the Latitude of 47 degrees 43
minutes South, and Longitude East from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 10
minutes, wore and stood to the Northward.
[March 1770.]
Thursday, March 1st. Winds between the South-West and North-North-West, a
fresh gale. In the P.M. found the Variation to be 16 degrees 34 minutes
East. At 8 Tack'd and Stood to the Southward, with the wind at West,
which before the morning veer'd to North-West, accompanied with hazey
weather and drizzling rain; at day light loosed a reef out of Each
Topsail, and set some of the small sails. At Noon our Latitude by account
was 47 degrees 52 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1
degree 8 minutes East.
Friday, 2nd. Strong Gales from the West, with heavy Squalls, attended
with showers of rain. In the P.M. Stood to the Southward till half-past
3, when being in the Latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South and Longitude
188 degrees 00 minutes West, and seeing no Visible signs of Land, we
Tack'd and Stood to the Northward, having a very large swell from the
South-West by West. Soon after we tack'd we close reef'd the Topsails,
and in the night were obliged to hand them, but at day light set them
again. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 46 degrees 42 minutes
South, Cape Saunders bearing North 46 degrees West, distant 68 Miles.
Saturday, 3rd. P.M. Wind and weather as Yesterday. A.M. quite Moderate,
yet the South-West swell continues, which makes me conjecture that there
is no land near in that quarter. At Noon our Latitude was 46 degrees 42
minutes South, being East of Cape Saunders 1 degree 30 minutes.
Sunday, 4th. At 4 p.m. the Wind coming to the Northward we stood to the
Westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning got up
Topgallant yards, and set the sails; found the Variation to be 16 degrees
16 minutes East. Saw several Whales, Seals, and one Penguin; this bird
was but Small of the sort, but seem'd to be such a one as we had never
seen before. We have seen several Seals since we passed the Straits, but
never saw one upon the whole Coast of Aeheinomouwe. We sounded both in
the Night and the morning, but found no bottom with 150 fathoms Line; at
Noon we saw Cape Saunders bearing North 1/2 West; our Latitude by
observation was 46 degrees 31 minutes South.* (* The Endeavour had been
blown off the land for seven days, and had barely recovered her
position.)
[Off South Part of Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Monday, 5th. Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North by East. Half
past 1 saw Land bearing West by South, which we steer'd for; before dark
we were within 3 or 4 Leagues of it, and seeing no land farther to the
South we were in hopes this would prove the Southern point. At 7 shortned
sail, and kept under an easy sail all night, standing to the
West-South-West, having the wind at North-West, and North-North-West
until 2 a.m., when it fell Calm, and soon after a breeze sprung up at
South-East by South, and daylight coming on we made sail. During the
whole night we saw a large fire upon the land; a certain sign of its
being inhabited. At 7 the Extreams of the land bore from North 38 degrees
East to West 6 minutes South, being distant from the Shore about 3
Leagues. The land appear'd of a Moderate height, and not hilly. At 1/2
past 10 o'Clock the westermost land in sight bore West 1/2 North, distant
7 Leagues; at Noon had fresh Gales at South-South-East, and thick hazey
weather with rain. Our Latitude by account was 46 degrees 50 minutes
South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 56 minutes West.*
(* The ship was now off the south point of the Middle Island.)
Tuesday, 6th. P.M. Winds at South by East and South-East, and thick hazey
weather until 3 o'clock, when it clear'd up, and we saw the land
extending from North-East by North to North-West 1/2 North, and soon
after low land, making like an Island, bearing West 1/2 South. Keeping on
our Course to the West by South, we in 2 hours' time saw high land over
the low, extending to the Southward as far as South-West by South; we
could not see this land join to that to the Northward of us, there either
being a total seperation, a deep Bay, or low land between them. At 8
o'Clock, being within 3 Leagues of the low land (which we now took to be
an Island* (* Ruapuke Island.)), we Tack'd and stood to the Eastward,
having the wind at South, which proved very unsettled all night; by which
means, and a little bad management, I found the Ship in the morning
considerably farther to the Eastward than I expected, and the wind
afterwards coming to South-West and West-South-West, so that at noon we
found ourselves much about the same place as we were Yesterday, our
Latitude by observation being 46 degrees 50 minutes South, the land
extending from North-East by East to West by North 1/2 North, the nearest
part bearing North, distance 3 Leagues; the land to the South-West just
in sight.
Wednesday, 7th. Light Airs in the South-West quarter. P.M. Clear weather,
remainder dark and Cloudy. In the P.M. found the Variation per several
Azimuths, and the Amplitude to be 15 degrees 10 minutes East, and by the
Amplitude in the morning to be 15 degrees 56 minutes East. Stood to the
South-East until 8 a.m., then tack'd and stood to the North-West; but it
soon after fell Calm, and continued so until noon, when by our account we
were in the Latitude of 47 degrees 6 minutes South, and had made 12 Miles
Easting since Yesterday at Noon.
Thursday, 8th. Light Airs next to a Calm from South-South-East to
North-East, with which we kept Steering to the South-West, but made but
little way because of a swell which took us right ahead. At daylight A.M.
we saw, or thought we saw, from the Masthead, the land which we have left
to the Northward of us joined to that to the South-West of us; and at the
same time we imagined we saw the land extend to the Southward as far as
South-South-West; but after steering this Course until noon we discovered