Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
our Mistake, for there was no land to be seen to the Southward of West,
which Course we now steer'd, being by observation in the Latitude of 47
degrees 12 minutes; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 2 minutes
West.
[Off South Cape of New Zealand.]
Friday, 9th. P.M. Winds at North, a Gentle breeze and Clear weather.
Stood to the Westward until sunset, at which time the Extreams of the
land bore from North by East to West, distant about 7 or 8 Leagues; Depth
of Water 55 fathoms; Variation by the Amplitude 16 degrees 29 minutes
East. The wind now veer'd to the Westward, and as the weather was fine
and Moonlight we kept standing close upon a Wind to the South-West all
night. At 4 a.m. Sounded, and had 60 fathoms; at daylight we discover'd
under our lee bow Ledges of Rocks, on which the Sea broke very high,
extending from South by West to West by South, and not above 3/4 of a
Mile from us; yet upon sounding we had 45 fathoms, a Rocky bottom. The
wind being at North-West we could not weather the Ledge, and as I did not
care to run to leeward, we tackt and made a Trip to the Eastward; but the
wind soon after coming to the North enabled us to go clear of all. Our
soundings in passing within the Ledge was from 35 to 47 fathoms, a rocky
bottom. This Ledge lies South-East, 6 Leagues from the Southermost part
of the Land, and South-East by South from some remarkable hills which
stand near the Shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lay here,
for about 3 Leagues to the Northward of them is another Ledge of Rocks,
laying full 3 Leagues from the land, whereon the Sea broke very high. As
we passed these rocks in the night at no great distance, and discover'd
the others close under our Lee at daylight, it is apparent that we had a
very fortunate Escape. I have named them the Traps, because they lay as
such to catch unweary Strangers.* (* The dangerous Traps lie south and
east of the South Island of New Zealand. The Endeavour had now at last
got to the southward of the land. There is a small but high rock farther
south, the Snares, that Cook did not sight this voyage.) At Noon our
Latitude per observation was 47 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude made
from Cape Saunders 3 degrees 4 minutes West, the land in sight--which has
very much the appearance of an Island* (* South or Stewart
Island.)--extending North-East by North to North-West by West, distant
from the Shore about 4 or 5 Leagues; the Eastermost ledge of rocks bore
South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Leagues; and Northermost North-East 1/2
East, 3 Leagues. This land is of a moderate height, and has a very barren
Aspect; not a Tree to be seen upon it, only a few Small Shrubs. There
were several white patches, on which the sun's rays reflected very
strongly, which I take to be a kind of Marble such as we have seen in
many places of this Country, particularly to the Northward.
Saturday, 10th. P.M. Moderate breezes at North-West by North and North
with which we stood close upon a Wind to the Westward. At sunset the
Southermost point of land, which I afterwards named South Cape,* (* South
Cape is the southern point of Stewart Island. Cook's position for it is
wonderfully exact.) and which lies in the Latitude of 47 degrees 19
minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich, bore
North 38 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Westermost land in
sight bore North 2 degrees East. This last was a small Island, lying off
the point of the Main.* (* Long Island, which lies, with others, on the
west side of Stewart Island.) I began now to think that this was the
Southermost land, and that we should be able to get round it by the West,
for we have had a large hollow swell from the South-West ever since we
had the last gale of wind from that Quarter, which makes one think there
is no land in that direction. In the Night it began to blow, so that at
or before daylight we were brought under our 2 Courses; but at 8 a.m. it
fell moderate, and we set the Topsails close Reeft, and the Mizn and Mizn
Staysail being split, we unbent them and bent others. At Noon, the wind
Coming at West, we Tackt and stood to the Northward, having no land in
sight; our Latitude by observation was 47 degrees 33 minutes South,
Longitude West from the South Cape 0 degrees 59 minutes.
Sunday, 11th. Winds between the West and North-West, a fresh Gale, and
Clear weather. Stood away North-North-East close upon a wind without
seeing any land until 2 A.M., when we discover'd an Island bearing
North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Two hours after this we saw
the Land ahead, upon which we Tackt and stood off until 6 o'Clock; then
stood in, in order to take a nearer View of it. At 11, being about 3
Leagues from the land, and the wind seem'd to incline on Shore, we Tackt
and stood off to the Southward. And now we thought that the land to the
Southward, or that we have been sailing round these 2 days past, was an
Island, because there appeared an Open Channell between the North part of
that land and the South part of the other in which we thought we saw the
Small Island we were in with the 6th Instant; but when I came to lay this
land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken, it appeared
that there was but little reason to suppose it an Island. On the
contrary, I hardly have a doubt but what it joins to, and makes a part
of, the Mainland,* (* Cook was deceived, as Stewart is an island.) the
Western extremity of which bore at Noon North 59 degrees West, and the
Island seen in the Morning* (* This was called by Cook Solander Island.)
South 59 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 24
minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 49 minutes West. It is nothing but a
barren rock of about a Mile in Circuit, remarkably high, and lies full 5
Leagues from the Main. The shore of the Main lies nearest East by South
and West by North, and forms a large open bay, in which there is no
appearance of a Harbour or other place of safety for shipping against
South-West and Southerly winds. The face of the Country bears a very
rugged Aspect, being full of high craggy hills, on the Summits of which
were several patches of Snow. However, the land is not wholy barren; we
could see wood, not only in the Valleys, but on several of the Hills; but
we saw no signs of inhabitants.
Monday, 12th. Fresh Gales between the West and North-West; latter part
squally, with rain. Stood to the South-West by South until 11 a.m., at
which time the wind shifted to the South-West by West. We wore, and stood
to the North-North-West, being then in the Latitude of 47 degrees 40
minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 50 minutes West, having a Hollow
Sea from the South-West.
Tuesday, 13th. Strong Gale between the South-West by West and
South-South-West, with a large Hollow sea from the same Quarter. In the
P.M. had frequent Squalls, with Showers of rain; in the night had several
very heavy squalls, attended with Showers of Hail, which obliged us to
take in our Topsails. During the night steer'd North-North-West until 6
a.m., when, seeing no land, we steer'd North by East, and set the Main
Topsail, single reeft. At 8 set the Foretopsail, single reeft, and loosed
all the Reefs out of the Maintopsail, and Steer'd North-East by East 1/2
East in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing East-North-East, and
appeared to be very high; but, being hazey over it, we could see nothing
distinct neither now nor at Noon, when, by Observation, we were in the
Latitude of 46 degrees 0 minutes South. Course and distance Sailed since
Yesterday North 5 degrees West, 96 Miles. Longitude made from the South
Cape 1 degree 40 minutes West.
[Off the New Zealand Sounds.]
Wednesday, 14th. In the P.M. had a fresh Gale from the Southward,
attended with Squalls. At 2 it Clear'd up over the land, which appeared
high and Mountainous. At 1/2 past 3 double reeft the Topsails, and hauld
in for a Bay, wherein their appear'd to be good Anchorage, and into which
I had thought of going with the Ship; but after standing in an hour, we
found the distance too great to run before dark, and it blow'd too hard
to attempt it in the night, or even to keep to Windward; for these
reasons we gave it up, and bore away along shore. This bay I have named
Dusky Bay. It lies in the Latitude of 45 degrees 47 minutes South; it is
about 3 or 4 Miles broad at the Entrance, and seems to be full as deep.
In it are several Islands, behind which there must be Shelter from all
winds, provided there is a Sufficient Depth of Water.* (* Dusky Bay is
one of the remarkable inlets known now as the New Zealand Sounds. They
are very deep, narrow fiords, running into the high mountains, that here
come close to the shore, and are much visited now for the sake of the
grandeur of the scenery. Cook visited and surveyed Dusky Bay in his next
voyage. The Endeavour had nearly as much tempestuous weather in rounding
the south end of New Zealand as she had off the North Cape; but Cook
managed to get a very fair idea of the coast, notwithstanding, by dint of
perseverance.) The North point of this bay, when it bears South-East by
South, is very remarkable, there being off it 5 high peaked rocks,
standing up like the 4 fingers and thumb of a Man's hand; on which
account I have named it Point Five Fingers. The land of this point is
farther remarkable by being the only Level land near it, and extends near
2 Leagues to the Northward. It is pretty high, wholy cover'd with wood,
and hath very much the Appearance of an Island, by its aspect being so
very different from the Land behind it, which is nothing but barren rocky
Mountains. At Sunset the Southermost Land in sight bore due South,
distant 5 or 6 Leagues; and as this is the Westermost point of land upon
the whole Coast I have called it West Cape. It lies about 3 Leagues to
the Southward of the bay above-mentioned, in the Latitude of 45 degrees
54 minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 17 minutes West. The land of
this Cape seems to be of a moderate height next the Sea, and hath Nothing
remarkable about it that we could see, Except a very White Clift 2 or 3
Leagues to the Southward of it. The land to the Southward of Cape West
trends away towards the South-East; to the Northward of it it Trends
North-North-East and North-East. At 7 o'Clock brought the Ship too under
the Foresail, with her head off Shore, having a fresh Gale at South by
East. At Midnight it moderated, and we wore and lay her head in shore
until 4 a.m.; then made Sail, and Steer'd along shore North-East 1/2
North, having a moderate breeze at South-South-East. At Noon we were by
observation in the Latitude 45 degrees 13 minutes South; Course and
distance sailed since Yesterday North 41 degrees East, 62 Miles;
Longitude made from Cape West 0 degrees 29 minutes East, being at this
time about 1 1/2 Leagues from Shore. Sounded, and had no ground with 70
fathoms Line. A little before Noon we passed a little Narrow opening in
the land, where there appear'd to be a very Snug Harbour,* (* Doubtful
Sound, another of the fiords mentioned in note above.) form'd by an
Island, in the Latitude of 45 degrees 16 minutes South; inland, behind
this Opening, were Mountains, the summits of which were Cover'd with Snow
that seem'd to have fallen lately, and this is not to be wondered at, for
we have found it very cold for these 2 days past. The land on each side
the Entrance of this Harbour riseth almost perpendicular from the Sea to
a very considerable Height; and this was the reason why I did not attempt
to go in with the Ship, because I saw clearly that no winds could blow
there but what was right in or right out, that is, Westerly or Easterly;
and it certainly would have been highly imprudent in me to have put into