Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Sunday, 25th. Winds Easterly; towards Noon had little winds and hazey,
with rain. Made several trips, but gain'd nothing to Windward, so that at
Noon our Situation was nearly as Yesterday.
Monday, 26th. At 3 p.m. the wind came to North, and we Steer'd
East-South-East with all the Sail we could set until dark, when we
shortned sail until the morning, having thick Misty weather. All Night we
keept the lead going continually, and had from 37 to 48 fathoms. At day
light we saw the land bearing South-East by East, and an Island laying
near it bearing East-South-East, distant 5 Leagues. This I knew to be the
Island* (* Stephens Island.) seen from the Entrance of Queen Charlotte's
sound, from which it bears North-West by North, Distant 9 Leagues. At
Noon it bore South-East, distant 4 or 5 miles, and the North-West head of
Queen Charlotte's sound bore South-East by South, distant 10 1/2 Leagues;
Latitude ohserv'd 43 degrees 33 minutes South.
[In Admiralty Bay, Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Tuesday, 27th. Fresh breeze of Wind Westerly, and hazey, Misty weather,
with Drizling rain. As we have now Circumnavigated the whole of this
Country, it is time for me to think of quitting it; but before I do this
it will be necessary to compleat our Water first, especially as we have
on board above 30 Tons of Casks empty, and knowing that there is a Bay
between the above-mentioned Island and Queen Charlotte's sound, wherein
no doubt there is Anchorage and convenient Watering places. Accordingly,
in the P.M. we hauled round the Island and into the bay,* (* Admiralty
Bay.) leaving 3 more Islands* (* Rangitoto Islets.) on our Starboard
hand, which lay close under the West Shore 3 or 4 Miles within the
Entrance. As we run in we keept the lead going, and had from 40 to 12
fathoms. At 6 we Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, Muddy bottom, under the West
Shore, in the Second Cove within the fore-mentioned Island. At daylight I
took a Boat and went to look for a Watering place, and a proper birth to
moor the Ship in, both of which I found convenient enough. After the Ship
was moor'd I sent an Officer ashore to Superintend the Watering, and the
Carpenter with his Crew to cut wood, while the Long boat was employed
carrying on shore Empty Casks.
Wednesday, 28th. Winds Westerly, which in the A.M. blow'd a fresh Gale,
attended with rain. Employ'd getting on board Wood and Water and fishing;
in the Latter we were pretty Successfull.
Thursday, 29th. In the P.M. had a Strong Gale from the Westward. A.M.
Variable light Airs from the Eastward and hazey rainy weather the whole
day; which, however, did not prevent us getting on board Wood and Water.
Friday, 30th. Winds at South-East, a moderate breeze; the first and
middle part dark, Hazey weather, with rain; the latter, fair. In the
A.M., as the wind seem'd to be settled at South-East, and having nearly
compleated our Water, we warped the Ship out of the Cove in order to have
room to get under Sail. Before this was done it was Noon, at which time I
went away in the Pinnace, in order to examine the Bay, and to Explore as
much of it as the little time I had would Admit.
Saturday, 31st. In the P.M., after rowing a League and a half or 2
Leagues up the Bay, I Landed upon a point of Land on the West side,
where, from an Eminency, I could see this Western Arm of the Bay run in
South-West by West, about 5 Leagues farther, yet did not see the Head of
it. There appeared to be several other inlets, or at least small bays,
between this and the North-West head of Queen Charlotte's sound, in every
one of which I make no doubt but what there is Anchorage and Shelter for
Shipping, as they are partly cover'd from the Sea wind by these Islands
that lay without them.* (* There is a maze of inlets and harbours between
Admiralty Bay and Queen Charlotte's Sound, a distance of 20 miles.) The
land about this bay, at least what I could see of it, is of a very hilly,
uneven Surface, and appears to be mostly cover'd with wood, Shrubs,
Firns, etc., which renders Travelling both difficult and Fatiguing. I saw
no inhabitants, neither have we seen any since we have been in this bay,
but met with several of their Huts, all of which appear'd to have been at
least 12 Months deserted.
Upon my return to the Ship, in the Evening, I found the Water, etc., all
on board, and the Ship ready for Sea; and being now resolv'd to quit this
Country altogether, and to bend my thought towards returning home by such
a rout as might Conduce most to the Advantage of the Service I am upon, I
consulted with the Officers upon the most Eligible way of putting this in
Execution. To return by the way of Cape Horn was what I most wished,
because by this rout we should have been able to prove the Existance or
Non-Existance of a Southern Continent, which yet remains Doubtfull; but
in order to Ascertain this we must have kept in a higher Latitude in the
very Depth of Winter, but the Condition of the Ship, in every respect,
was not thought sufficient for such an undertaking. For the same reason
the thoughts of proceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope was laid
aside, especially as no discovery of any Moment could be hoped for in
that rout. It was therefore resolved to return by way of the East Indies
by the following rout: upon Leaving this Coast to steer to the Westward
until we fall in with the East Coast of New Holland, and then to follow
the direction of that Coast to the Northward, or what other direction it
might take us, until we arrive at its Northern extremity; and if this
should be found impracticable, then to Endeavour to fall in with the Land
or Islands discovered by Quiros.* (* Quiros, a Spanish navigator,
discovered in 1605 Espiritu Santo, the northern island of the New
Hebrides, which he supposed to be a part of a great southern continent.
Cook, in his second voyage, thoroughly explored the New Hebrides group;
and for some of the islands his charts are still the only guide.)
With this view, at daylight we got under Sail and put to Sea, having the
Advantage of a fresh Gale at South-East and Clear weather. At Noon the
Island, which lies off the North-West point of the Bay, bore East 9
degrees South, distant 10 Miles; our Latitude, by Observation, was 40
degrees 35 minutes South. This bay I have named Admiralty Bay; the
North-West point Cape Stephens, and the East Point Jackson, after the 2
Secretarys.* (* The two secretaries of the Admiralty, Philip Stephens and
George Jackson, both of whom showed great appreciation of Cook.) It may
always be known by the Island above mentioned, which is pretty high, and
lies North-East, 2 Miles from Cape Stephens; Latitude 40 degrees 37
minutes South; Longitude 185 degrees 6 minutes West. Between this Island
and Cape Farewell, which is West by North and East by South, distant 14
or 15 Leagues from each other, the Shore forms a large deep Bay, the
bottom of which we could hardly see in sailing in a Strait line from the
one Cape to the other; but it is not at all improbable but what it is all
lowland next the Sea, as we have met with less water here than on any
other part of the Coast at the same distance from Land; however, a Bay
there is, and is known on the Chart by the Name of Blind Bay, but I have
reason to believe it to be Tasman's Murderers' Bay.* (* Blind Bay is now
also known as Tasman Bay, and Massacre Bay is supposed to be a smaller
bay in it, on the north-western side.)
Before I quit this land altogether I shall give a short general
discription of the Country, its inhabitants, their manners, Customs,
etc., in which it is necessary to observe that many things are founded
only on Conjecture, for we were too short a time in any one place to
learn much of their interior policy, and therefore could only draw
conclusions from what we saw at different times.
[Description of New Zealand.]
SOME ACCOUNT OF NEW ZEALAND.
Part of the East* (* This should be West Coast.) Coast of this Country
was first discovered by Abel Tasman in 1642, and by him called New
Zeland; he, however, never landed upon it; probably he was discouraged
from it by the Natives killing 3 or 4 of his People at the first and only
place he Anchor'd at. This country, which before now was thought to be a
part of the imaginary Southern Continent, consists of 2 large Islands,
divided from each other by a Strait or Passage of 4 or 5 Leagues broad.
They are situated between the Latitude of 34 and 48 degrees South, and
between the Longitude of 181 and 194 degrees West from the Meridian of
Greenwich. The situation of few parts of the world are better determin'd
than these Islands are, being settled by some hundreds of Observations of
the Sun and Moon, and one of the Transit of Mercury made by Mr. Green,
who was sent out by the Royal Society to observe the Transit of Venus.
The Northermost of these Islands, as I have before observed, is called by
the Natives Aeheinomouwe and the Southermost Tovy Poenammu. The former
name, we were well assured, comprehends the whole of the Northern Island;
but we were not so well satisfied with the latter whether it comprehended
the whole of the Southern Islands or only a part of it. This last,
according to the Natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound, ought to consist of
2 Islands, one of which at least we were to have sail'd round in a few
days; but this was not verify'd by our own Observations. I am inclinable
to think that they know'd no more of this land than what came within the
Limits of their sight.* (* As before remarked, the natives at Queen
Charlotte's Sound doubtless were speaking of the large peninsula and the
islands which lie west of the Sound. There is a spot at the isthmus where
canoes could be hauled over.) The Chart* (* See copy of this chart.)
which I have drawn will best point out the figure and Extent of these
Islands, the situation of the Bays and Harbours they contain, and the
lesser Islands lay about them.
And now I have mentioned the Chart, I shall point out such places as are
drawn with sufficient accuracy to be depended upon and such as are not,
beginning at Cape Pallisser and proceed round Aeheinomouwe by the East
Cape, etc. The Coast between these 2 Capes I believe to be laid down
pretty accurate, both in its figure and the Course and distance from
point to point; the opportunities I had and the methods I made use on to
obtain these requisites were such as could hardly admit of an Error. From
the East Cape to Cape Maria Van Diemen, altho' it cannot be perfectly
true, yet it is without any very Material error; some few places,
however, must be excepted, and these are very Doubtfull, and are not only
here, but in every other part of the Chart pointed out by a Pricked or
broken line. From Cape Maria Van Diemen up as high as the Latitude of 36
degrees 15 minutes we seldom were nearer the Shore than from 5 to 8
Leagues, and therefore the line of the Sea Coast may in some places be
erroneous. From the above Latitude to nearly the Length of Entry Island
we run along and near the shore all the way, and no circumstance occurd
that made me liable to commit any Material error. Excepting Cape
Teerawhitte, we never came near the Shore between Entry Island and Cape
Pallisser, and therefore this part of the coast may be found to differ
something from the truth; in Short, I believe that this Island will never
be found to differ Materially from the figure I have given it, and that
the Coast Affords few or no Harbours but what are either taken notice of
in this Journal, or in some Measure pointed out in the Chart; but I
cannot say so much for Tovy Poenammu. The Season of the Year and
Circumstance of the Voyage would not permit me to spend so much time
about this Island as I had done at the other, and the blowing weather we