Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Wednesday, 25th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-West until 3
o'Clock, at which time it came to West, and we Tack'd and stood to the
Northward. At 5 o'Clock, being about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, the
Pidgeon house bearing West-South-West, distant 9 Leagues, sounded and had
86 fathoms. At 8, being very squally, with lightning, we close reef'd the
Topsails and brought too, being then in 120 fathoms. At 3 A.M. made sail
again to the Northward, having the advantage of a fresh Gale at
South-West. At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the
Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes
West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon is North by East 49
Miles. In the Course of this day's run we saw the Smoke of fire in
several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of
Cape St. George the Shore seems to form a bay,* (* Jervis Bay, a very
fine port, but little use has been made of it up to the present time.)
which appear'd to be shelter'd from the North-East winds; but as we had
the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was
not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. The
North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam'd Long Nose.
Latitude 45 degrees 4 minutes South, 8 Leagues to the Northward of this,
is a point which I call'd Red Point; some part of the Land about it
appeared of that Colour (Latitude 34 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude
208 degrees 49 minutes West). A little way inland to the North-West of
this point is a round hill, the top of which look'd like the Crown of a
Hatt.
Thursday, 26th. Clear, serene weather. In the P.M. had a light breeze at
North-North-West until 5, at which time it fell Calm, we being then about
3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms. Variation by Azimuth 8
degrees 48 minutes East, the extreams of the land from North-East by
North to South-West by South. Saw several smokes along shore before dark,
and 2 or 3 times a fire. In the Night we lay becalm'd, driving in before
the Sea, until one o'Clock A.M., at which time we got a breeze from the
land, with which we steer'd North-East, being then in 38 fathoms water.
At Noon it fell little Wind, and veer'd to North-East by North, we being
then in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees
27 minutes West, and about 5 Leagues from the land, which extended from
South 37 degrees West to North 1/2 East. In this Latitude are some White
Clifts, which rise perpendicular from the Sea to a moderate height.
Friday, 27th. Var'ble light Airs between the North-East and North-West,
clear pleasant weather. In the P.M. stood off Shore until 2, then Tackt
and Stood in till 6, at which time we tack'd and stood off, being then in
54 fathoms and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the Extreams of which
bore from South, 28 degrees West to North 25 degrees 30 minutes East. At
12 we tack'd and stood in until 4 A.M., then made a Trip off until day
light, after which we stood in for the land; in all this time we lost
ground, owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds, for at Noon
we were by Observation in the Latitude of 34 degrees 21 minutes South,
Red Point bearing South 27 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues. In this
Situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, which extended from
South 19 degrees 30 minutes West to North 29 degrees East.
Saturday, 28th. In the P.M. hoisted out the Pinnace and Yawl in order to
attempt a landing, but the Pinnace took in the Water so fast that she was
obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes. At this time we saw
several people a shore, 4 of whom where carrying a small Boat or Canoe,
which we imagin'd they were going to put in to the Water in order to Come
off to us; but in this we were mistaken. Being now not above 2 Miles from
the Shore Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the Yawl,
and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw 4 or 5 of the Natives,
who took to the Woods as we approached the Shore; which disappointed us
in the expectation we had of getting a near View of them, if not to speak
to them. But our disappointment was heightened when we found that we no
where could effect a landing by reason of the great Surf which beat
everywhere upon the shore. We saw haul'd up upon the beach 3 or 4 small
Canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the Small ones of New
Zeland. In the wood were several Trees of the Palm kind, and no under
wood; and this was all we were able to observe from the boat, after which
we return'd to the Ship about 5 in the evening.* (* The place where Cook
attempted to land is near Bulli, a place where there is now considerable
export of coal. A large coal port, Wollongong, lies a little to the
southward.) At this time it fell Calm, and we were not above a Mile and a
half from the Shore, in 11 fathoms, and within some breakers that lay to
the Southward of us; but luckily a light breeze came off from the Land,
which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the Northward.
At daylight in the morning we discover'd a Bay,* (* Botany Bay.) which
appeared to be tollerably well shelter'd from all winds, into which I
resolved to go with the Ship, and with this View sent the Master in the
Pinnace to sound the Entrance, while we keept turning up with the Ship,
having the wind right out. At noon the Entrance bore North-North-West,
distance 1 Mile.
[At Anchor, Botany Bay, New South Wales.]
Sunday, 29th. In the P.M. wind Southerly and Clear weather, with which we
stood into the bay and Anchored under the South shore about 2 miles
within the Entrance in 5 fathoms, the South point bearing South-East and
the North point East. Saw, as we came in, on both points of the bay,
several of the Natives and a few hutts; Men, Women, and Children on the
South Shore abreast of the Ship, to which place I went in the Boats in
hopes of speaking with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and
Tupia. As we approached the Shore they all made off, except 2 Men, who
seem'd resolved to oppose our landing. As soon as I saw this I order'd
the boats to lay upon their Oars, in order to speak to them; but this was
to little purpose, for neither us nor Tupia could understand one word
they said. We then threw them some nails, beads, etc., a shore, which
they took up, and seem'd not ill pleased with, in so much that I thought
that they beckon'd to us to come ashore; but in this we were mistaken,
for as soon as we put the boat in they again came to oppose us, upon
which I fir'd a musquet between the 2, which had no other Effect than to
make them retire back, where bundles of their darts lay, and one of them
took up a stone and threw at us, which caused my firing a Second Musquet,
load with small Shott; and altho' some of the shott struck the man, yet
it had no other effect than making him lay hold on a Target. Immediately
after this we landed, which we had no sooner done than they throw'd 2
darts at us; this obliged me to fire a third shott, soon after which they
both made off, but not in such haste but what we might have taken one;
but Mr. Banks being of Opinion that the darts were poisoned, made me
cautious how I advanced into the Woods. We found here a few small hutts
made of the Bark of Trees, in one of which were 4 or 5 Small Children,
with whom we left some strings of beads, etc. A quantity of Darts lay
about the Hutts; these we took away with us. 3 Canoes lay upon the beach,
the worst I think I ever saw; they were about 12 or 14 feet long, made of
one piece of the Bark of a Tree, drawn or tied up at each end, and the
middle keept open by means of pieces of Stick by way of Thwarts. After
searching for fresh water without success, except a little in a Small
hole dug in the Sand, we embarqued, and went over to the North point of
the bay, where in coming in we saw several people; but when we landed now
there were nobody to be seen. We found here some fresh Water, which came
trinkling down and stood in pools among the rocks; but as this was
troublesome to come at I sent a party of men ashore in the morning to the
place where we first landed to dig holes in the sand, by which means and
a Small stream they found fresh Water sufficient to Water the Ship. The
String of Beads, etc., we had left with the Children last night were
found laying in the Hutts this morning; probably the Natives were afraid
to take them away. After breakfast we sent some Empty Casks a shore and a
party of Men to cut wood, and I went myself in the Pinnace to sound and
explore the Bay, in the doing of which I saw some of the Natives; but
they all fled at my Approach. I landed in 2 places, one of which the
people had but just left, as there were small fires and fresh Muscles
broiling upon them; here likewise lay Vast heaps of the largest Oyster
Shells I ever saw.
Monday, 30th. As Soon as the Wooders and Waterers were come on board to
Dinner 10 or 12 of the Natives came to the watering place, and took away
their Canoes that lay there, but did not offer to touch any one of our
Casks that had been left ashore; and in the afternoon 16 or 18 of them
came boldly up to within 100 yards of our people at the watering place,
and there made a stand. Mr. Hicks, who was the Officer ashore, did all in
his power to intice them to him by offering them presents; but it was to
no purpose, all they seem'd to want was for us to be gone. After staying
a Short time they went away. They were all Arm'd with Darts and wooden
Swords; the darts have each 4 prongs, and pointed with fish bones. Those
we have seen seem to be intended more for striking fish than offensive
Weapons; neither are they poisoned, as we at first thought. After I had
return'd from sounding the Bay I went over to a Cove on the North side of
the Bay, where, in 3 or 4 Hauls with the Sean, we caught about 300 pounds
weight of Fish, which I caused to be equally divided among the Ship's
Company. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to sound and explore the North
side of the bay, where I neither met with inhabitants or anything
remarkable. Mr. Green took the Sun's Meridian Altitude a little within
the South Entrance of the Bay, which gave the Latitude 34 degrees 0
minutes South.
[May 1770.]
Tuesday, May 1st. Gentle breezes, Northerly. In the P.M. 10 of the
Natives again visited the Watering place. I, being on board at this time,
went immediately ashore, but before I got there they were going away. I
follow'd them alone and unarm'd some distance along shore, but they would
not stop until they got farther off than I choose to trust myself. These
were armed in the same manner as those that came Yesterday. In the
evening I sent some hands to haul the Saine, but they caught but a very
few fish. A little after sunrise I found the Variation to be 11 degrees 3
minutes East. Last night Forby Sutherland, Seaman, departed this Life,
and in the A.M. his body Was buried ashore at the watering place, which
occasioned my calling the south point of this bay after his name. This
morning a party of us went ashore to some Hutts, not far from the
Watering place, where some of the Natives are daily seen; here we left
several articles, such as Cloth, Looking Glasses, Coombs, Beads, Nails,
etc.; after this we made an Excursion into the Country, which we found
diversified with Woods, Lawns, and Marshes. The woods are free from
underwood of every kind, and the trees are at such a distance from one
another that the whole Country, or at least great part of it, might be
Cultivated without being obliged to cut down a single tree. We found the
Soil every where, except in the Marshes, to be a light white sand, and
produceth a quantity of good Grass, which grows in little Tufts about as