Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Harbour we saw here; besides these we saw some Bustards, such as we have
in England, one of which we kill'd that weighed 17 1/2 pounds, which
occasioned my giving this place the Name of Bustard Bay (Latitude 24
degrees 4 minutes, Longitude 208 degrees 22 minutes West); we likewise
saw some black and white Ducks. Here are plenty of small Oysters sticking
to the Rocks, Stones, and Mangrove Trees, and some few other shell fish,
such as large Muscles, Pearl Oysters, Cockels, etc. I measured the
perpendicular height of the last Tide, and found it to be 8 foot above
low water mark, and from the time of low water to-day I found that it
must be high Water at the full and Change of the Moon at 8 o'Clock.
Thursday, 24th. In the P.M. I was employ'd ashore in the Transactions
before related; at 4 a.m. we weighed with a Gentle breeze at South, and
made sail out of the Bay. In standing out our soundings were from 5 to 15
fathoms; when in this last Depth we were abreast of the North Point, and
being daylight we discover'd breakers stretching out from it about
North-North-East, 2 or 3 miles; at the Outermost point of them is a Rock
just above Water. In passing these rocks at the distance of 1/2 a mile we
had from 15 to 20 fathoms; being past them, we hauld along shore
West-North-West for the farthest land we had in sight. At Noon we were by
Observation in the Latitude of 23 degrees 52 minutes South; the North
part of Bustard Bay bore South 62 degrees East, distance 10 miles, and
the Northermost land in sight North 60 degrees West. Longitude in 208
degrees 37 minutes West, distance from the nearest shore 6 Miles; in this
situation had 14 fathoms water.
[Off Cape Capricorn, Queensland.]
Friday, 25th. In the P.M. had it calm until 5, when a light breeze sprung
up at South-East, and we steer'd North-West as the land lay until 10,
then brought too, having had all along 14 and 15 fathoms. At 5 A.M. we
made sail; at daylight the Northermost point of the Main bore North 70
degrees West, and soon after we saw more land making like Islands,
bearing North-West by North; at 9 we were abreast of the point, distant
from it 1 mile; Depth of Water 14 fathoms. I found this point to lay
directly under the Tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason call it by
that Name. Longitude 209 degrees 0 minutes West. It is of a Moderate
height, and looks white and barren, and may be known by some Islands
which lie to the North-West of it, and some small Rocks one League
South-East from it; on the West side of the Cape there appeared to be a
Lagoon. On the 2 Spits which form the Entrance were a great Number of
Pelicans; at least, so I call them. The most northermost land we could
see bore from Cape Capricorn North 24 degrees West, and appeared to be an
Island;* (* Hummocky Island.) but the Main land Trended West by North 1/2
North, which Course we steer'd, having from 15 to 16 fathoms and from 6
to 9, a hard sandy bottom. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 23
degrees 24 minutes South; Cape Capricorn bore South 60 degrees East,
distance 2 Leagues; a small Island North by East 2 Miles. In this
Situation had 9 fathoms at the distance of 4 Miles from the Main land,
which is here low and Sandy next the Sea, except the points which are
moderately high and rocky; in land the Country is hilly, and affords but
a very indifferent prospect.* (* Between Bustard Bay and Cape Capricorn
is Port Curtis, in which stands the small town of Gladstone. Cape
Capricorn is the eastern point of Curtis Island, and to the northward is
Keppel Bay, into which falls the Fitzroy River. Up the latter, 35 miles
from the sea, is Rockhampton, the second largest town of Queensland. All
this coast is encumbered with shoals, outside of which Cook had so far
prudently kept. To seaward begins the long chain of islands and reefs
known as the Great Australian Barrier, which stretches up to Torres
Straits. Cook was unaware of their existence, as they were out of sight,
but he became painfully acquainted with them later, where the reefs
approach the land, and make navigation along the coast anxious work; but
he here began to get into difficulties with the shoals which stretch off
the coast itself.)
Saturday, 26th. In the P.M. light breezes at East-South-East, with which
we stood to the North-West until 4 o'Clock, when it fell calm, and soon
after we Anchored in 12 fathoms. Cape Capricorn bearing South 54 degrees
East, distant 4 Leagues, having the Main land and Islands in a manner all
around us. In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet,
and the flood to set to the Westward and Ebb to the Eastward; which is
quite the reverse to what we found it when at Anchor to the Eastward of
Bustard Bay. At 6 a.m. we weigh'd with the Wind at South, a Gentle
breeze, and stood away to the North-West, between the Outermost range of
Islands* (* The Keppel Islands.) and the Main land, leaving several small
Islands between us and the Latter, which we passed Close by. Our
soundings was a little irregular, from 12 to 4 fathoms, which caused me
to send a Boat ahead to sound. At noon we were about 3 Miles from the
Main, about the same distance from the Islands without us; our Latitude
by Observation was 23 degrees 7 minutes South, and Longitude made from
Cape Capricorn 18 Miles West. The Main land in this Latitude is tolerable
high and Mountainious; and the Islands which lay off it are the most of
them pretty high and of a Small Circuit, and have more the appearance of
barrenness than fertility. We saw smookes a good way in land, which makes
me think there must be a River, Lagoon, or Inlet, into the Country, and
we passed 2 places that had the Appearance of such this morning; but our
Depth of Water at that Time was too little to haul in for them, where I
might expect to meet with less.
Sunday, 27th. We had not stood on to the Northward quite an hour before
we fell into 3 fathoms, upon which I anchor'd, and Sent away the Master
with 2 Boats to sound the Channell, which lay to Leeward of us between
the Northermost Island and the Main Land, which appear'd to me to be
pretty broad; but I suspected that it was Shoal, and so it was found, for
the Master reported to me upon his return that he found in many places
only 2 1/2 fathoms, and where we lay at Anchor we had only 16 feet, which
was not 2 feet more than the Ship drew.* (* This was between Great Keppel
Island and the Main. There is a mass of shoals here.) In the Evening the
wind veer'd to East-North-East, which gave us an opportunity to stretch 3
or 4 miles back the way we Came before the Wind Shifted to South, and
obliged us again to Anchor in 6 fathoms. At 5 o'Clock in the A.M. I sent
away the Master with 2 Boats to search for a Passage out between the
Islands, while the Ship got under sail. As soon as it was light the
Signal was made by the boats of their having found a Passage, upon which
we hoisted in the Boats, and made sail to the Northward as the land lay;
soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, having still Some small Islands without
us.* (* The ship passed out between Great Keppel Island and North Keppel
Island.) At noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main Land, and by
observation in the Latitude of 22 degrees 53 minutes South, Longitude
made from Cape Capricorn 0 degrees 20 minutes West. At this time the
Northermost point of Land we had in sight bore North-North-West, distance
10 Miles; this point I named Cape Manyfold, from the Number of high Hills
over it; Latitude 22 degrees 43 minutes South; it lies North 20 degrees
West, distant 17 Leagues from Cape Capricorn. Between them the shore
forms a large Bay, which I call'd Keppel Bay, and the Islands which lay
in and Off it are known by the same name; in this Bay is good Anchorage,
where there is a sufficient depth of Water; what refreshment it may
afford for Shipping I know not.* (* As before mentioned, the Fitzroy
River falls into Keppel Bay, and forms a good harbour, though much
encumbered with sand banks.) We caught no fish here, notwithstanding we
were at Anchor; it can hardly be doubted but what it afforded fresh Water
in several places, as both Mainland and Islands are inhabited. We saw
smokes by day and fires in the night upon the Main, and people upon one
of the Islands.
[Off Cape Townshend, Queensland.]
Monday, 28th. Winds at South-South-East, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock in
the P.M. we passed Cape Manifold, from which the Land Trends
North-North-West. The land of this Cape is tolerable high, and riseth in
hills directly from the Sea; it may be known by 3 Islands laying off it,
one near the Shore, and the other 2 Eight Miles out at Sea; the one of
these is low and flat, and the other high and round.* (* Peak and Flat
Islands.) At 6 o'Clock we shortned sail and brought too; the Northermost
part of the Main we had in sight bore North-West, and some Islands lying
off it bore North 31 degrees West; our soundings since Noon were from 20
to 25 fathoms, and in the Night 30 and 34 fathoms. At day light we made
Sail, Cape Manifold bearing South by East, distance 8 Leagues, and the
Islands set last night in the same directions, distance from us 4 Miles.
The farthest point of the Main bore North 67 degrees West, distant 22
Miles; but we could see several Islands to the Northward of this
direction.* (* The easternmost of the Northumberland Islands.) At 9
o'Clock we were abreast of the above point, which I named Cape Townshend*
(* Charles Townshend was Chancellor of the Exchequer 1767.) (Latitude 22
degrees 13 minutes, Longitude 209 degrees 48 minutes West); the land of
this Cape is of a moderate and pretty even height, and is more barren
than woody. Several Islands lay to the Northward of it, 4 or 5 Leagues
out at Sea. 3 or 4 Leagues to the South-East the Shore forms a bay,* (*
Shoalwater Bay, a large inlet.) in the bottom of which there appeared to
be an inlet or Harbour to the Westward of the Coast, and Trends
South-West 1/2 South; and these form a very large Bay, which turns away
to the Eastward, and probably communicates with the Inlet above
mentioned, and by that Means makes the land of the Cape an Island. As
soon as we got round the Cape we hauld our wind to the Westward in order
to get within the Islands which lay scatter'd up and down in this bay in
great number, and extend out to Sea as far as we could see from the
Masthead; how much farther will hardly be in my power to determine; they
are as Various in their height and Circuit as they are numerous.* (* The
Northumberland islands, a very extensive group.) We had not stood long
upon a Wind before we meet with Shoal Water, and was obliged to Tack
about to avoid it; after which I sent a boat ahead, and we bore away West
by North, leaving many small Islands, Rocks, and Shoals between us and
the Main, and a number of Large Islands without us; soundings from 14 to
17 fathoms, Sandy Bottom. A little before noon the boat made the Signal
for meeting with Shoal Water, upon which we hauld close upon a Wind to
the Eastward, but suddenly fell into 3 1/4 fathoms water, upon which we
immediately let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with all sails
standing, and had then 4 fathoms Coarse sandy bottom. We found here a
strong Tide setting to the North-West by West 1/2 West, at the rate of
between 2 and 3 Miles an Hour, which was what Carried us so quickly upon
the Shoal. Our Latitude by Observation was 22 degrees 8 minutes South;
Cape Townshend bore East 16 degrees South, distant 13 Miles, and the
Westermost part of the Main Land in sight West 3/4 North, having a number
of Islands in sight all round us.* (* The ship was on the Donovan Shoal
in Broad Sound Channel.)
Tuesday, 29th. Fresh gales between the South-South-East and
East-South-East, Hazey weather, with some showers of rain. In the P.M.,