Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
hoisted in we stood away North by West for the Northermost land we had in
sight, which we were abreast of at 3 o'Clock in the Morning, having
passed all the Islands 3 or 4 hours before. This point I have named Point
Hillock,* (* Point Hillock is the east point of Hinchinbrook Island,
which is separated from the main by a narrow and tortuous channel.) on
account of its Figure. The Land of this point is Tolerable high, and may
be known by a round Hillock or rock that appears to be detached from the
point, but I believe it joins to it. Between this Cape and Cape Cleveland
the shore forms a Large bay, which I named Hallifax bay;* (* The Earl of
Halifax was Secretary of State 1763 to 1765.) before it lay the Groups of
Islands before mentioned, and some others nearer the Shore. These Islands
shelter the Bay in a manner from all Winds, in which is good Anchorage.
The land near the Shore in the bottom of the bay is very low and Woody;
but a little way back in the Country is a continued ridge of high land,
which appear'd to be barren and rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we
continued standing to the North-North-West as the land Trended, having
the Advantage of a light Moon. At 6 a.m. we were abreast of a point of
Land which lies North by West 1/2 West, 11 Miles from Point Hillick; the
Land between them is very high, and of a craggy, barren surface. This
point I named Cape Sandwich;* (* Earl of Sandwich was First Lord of the
Admiralty 1763.) it may not only be known by the high, craggy land over
it, but by a small Island which lies East one Mile from it, and some
others about 2 Leagues to the Northward of it. From Cape Sandwich the
Land trends West, and afterwards North, and forms a fine, Large Bay,
which I called Rockingham Bay;* (* The Marquis of Rockingham was Prime
Minister 1765 to 1766.) it is well Shelter'd, and affords good Anchorage;
at least, so it appear'd to me, for having met with so little
encouragement by going ashore that I would not wait to land or examine it
farther, but continued to range along Shore to the Northward for a parcel
of Small Islands* (* The Family Islands.) laying off the Northern point
of the Bay, and, finding a Channel of a Mile broad between the 3
Outermost and those nearer the Shore, we pushed thro'. While we did this
we saw on one of the nearest Islands a Number of the Natives collected
together, who seem'd to look very attentively upon the Ship; they were
quite naked, and of a very Dark Colour, with short hair. At noon we were
by observation in the Latitude of 17 degrees 59 minutes, and abreast of
the North point of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us West 2 Miles. This
boundry of the Bay is form'd by a Tolerable high Island, known in the
Chart by the Name of Dunk Isle; it lays so near the Shore as not to be
distinguished from it unless you are well in with the Land. At this time
we were in the Longitude of 213 degrees 57 minutes. Cape Sandwich bore
South by East 1/2 East, distant 19 Miles, and the northermost land in
sight North 1/2 West. Our depth of Water in the Course of this day's Sail
was not more than 16, nor less than 7, fathoms.* (* About here the Great
Barrier Reefs begin to close in on the land. Cook kept so close to the
latter that he was unconscious as yet of their existence; but he was soon
to find them.)
[Anchored near Cape Grafton, Queensland.]
Saturday, 9th. Winds between the South and South-East, a Gentle breeze,
and Clear weather, with which we steer'd North by West as the land lay,
the northern extream of which at sunset bore North 25 degrees West. We
keept on our Course under an Easey sail all night, having from 12 to 16
fathoms, at the distance of about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Land. At 6 a.m.
we were abreast of Some small Islands, which we called Frankland Isles,
that lay about 2 Leagues from the Mainland, the Northern Point of which
in sight bore North by West 1/2 West; but this we afterwards found to be
an Island,* (* Fitzroy Island.) tolerable high, and about 4 Miles in
Circuit. It lies about 2 Miles from the Point on the Main between which
we went with the ship, and were in the Middle of the Channell at Noon,
and by observation in the Latitude of 16 degrees 55 minutes, where we had
20 fathoms of water. The point of land we were now abreast of I called
Cape Grafton* (* The Duke of Grafton was Prime Minister when Cook
sailed.) (Latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 11
minutes West); it is Tolerable high, and so is the whole Coast for 20
Leagues to the southward, and hath a very rocky surface, which is thinly
cover'd with wood. In the night we saw several fires along shore, and a
little before noon some people.
Sunday, 10th. After hauling round Cape Grafton we found the land trend
away North-West by West; 3 Miles to the Westward of the Cape is a Bay,
wherein we Anchor'd, about 2 Miles from the Shore, in 4 fathoms, owsey
bottom. The East point of the Bay bore South 74 degrees East, the West
point South 83 degrees West, and a Low green woody Island laying in the
Offing bore North 35 degrees East. The Island lies North by East 1/2
East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Grafton, and is known in the
Chart by the Name of Green Island. As soon as the Ship was brought to an
Anchor I went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; the
first thing I did was to look for fresh Water, and with that View rowed
out towards the Cape, because in the bottom of the bay was low Mangrove
land, and little probability of meeting with any there. But the way I
went I found 2 Small streams, which were difficult to get at on account
of the Surf and rocks upon the Shore. As we came round the Cape we saw,
in a sandy Cove, a small stream of Water run over the beach; but here I
did not go in the boat because I found that it would not be Easey to
land. We hardly advanced anything into the Country, it being here hilly,
which were steep and rocky, and we had not time to Visit the Low lands,
and therefore met with nothing remarkable. My intention was to have
stay'd here at least one day, to have looked into the Country had we met
with fresh water convenient, or any other Refreshment; but as we did not,
I thought it would be only spending of time, and loosing as much of a
light Moon to little purpose, and therefore at 12 o'Clock at night we
weighed and stood away to the North-West, having at this time but little
wind, attended with Showers of rain.* (* In the next bay west of where
Cook anchored is Cairns, a small but rising town in the centre of a
sugar-growing district.) At 4 the breeze freshned at South by East, with
fair weather; we continued steering North-North-West 1/2 West as the Land
lay, having 10, 12, and 14 fathoms, at a distance of 3 Leagues from the
Land. At 11 we hauld off North, in order to get without a Small Low
Island* (* Low Isles. There is now a lighthouse on them.) which lay about
2 Leagues from the Main; it being about high Water, about the time we
passed it, great part of it lay under water. About 3 Leagues to the North
Westward of this Island, close under the Main land, is another Island,*
(* Snapper Island.) Tolerable high, which bore from us at Noon North 55
degrees West, distant 7 or 8 Miles; we being at this time in the Latitude
of 16 degrees 20 minutes South, Cape Grafton bore South 29 degrees East,
distant 40 Miles, and the Northermost point of Land in Sight North 20
degrees West, and in this Situation had 15 fathoms Water. The Shore
between Cape Grafton and the above Northern point forms a large but not
very deep Bay, which I named Trinity Bay, after the day on which it was
discover'd; the North point Cape Tribulation, because here began all our
Troubles. Latitude 16 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 39
minutes West.
[The Ship Aground on Endeavour Reef.]
Monday, 11th. Wind at East-South-East, with which we steer'd along shore
North by West at the distance of 3 or 4 Leagues off, having from 14 to 10
and 12 fathoms water. Saw 2 Small Islands in the Offing, which lay in the
Latitude of 16 degrees 0 minutes South, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the
Main. At 6 the Northermost land in sight bore North by West 1/2 West, and
2 low, woody Islands,* (* Hope Islands.) which some took to be rocks
above Water, bore North 1/2 West. At this time we shortened Sail, and
hauld off shore East-North-East and North-East by East, close upon a
Wind. My intention was to stretch off all Night as well to avoid the
danger we saw ahead as to see if any Islands lay in the Offing,
especially as we now begun to draw near the Latitude of those discover'd
by Quiros, which some Geographers, for what reason I know not, have
thought proper to Tack to this land. Having the advantage of a fine
breeze of wind, and a clear Moon light Night in standing off from 6 until
near 9 o Clock, we deepned our Water from 14 to 21 fathoms, when all at
once we fell into 12, 10 and 8 fathoms. At this time I had everybody at
their Stations to put about and come to an Anchor; but in this I was not
so fortunate, for meeting again with Deep Water, I thought there could be
no danger in standing on.* (* The ship passed just northward of
Pickersgill Reef.) Before 10 o'Clock we had 20 and 21 fathoms, and
Continued in that depth until a few minutes before 11, when we had 17,
and before the Man at the Lead could heave another cast, the Ship Struck
and stuck fast. Immediately upon this we took in all our Sails, hoisted
out the Boats and Sounded round the Ship, and found that we had got upon
the South-East Edge of a reef of Coral Rocks, having in some places round
the Ship 3 and 4 fathoms Water, and in other places not quite as many
feet, and about a Ship's length from us on the starboard side (the Ship
laying with her Head to the North-East) were 8, 10, and 12 fathoms. As
soon as the Long boat was out we struck Yards and Topmast, and carried
out the Stream Anchor on our Starboard bow, got the Coasting Anchor and
Cable into the Boat, and were going to carry it out in the same way; but
upon my sounding the 2nd time round the Ship I found the most water a
Stern, and therefore had this Anchor carried out upon the Starboard
Quarter, and hove upon it a very great Strain; which was to no purpose,
the Ship being quite fast, upon which we went to work to lighten her as
fast as possible, which seem'd to be the only means we had left to get
her off. As we went ashore about the Top of High Water we not only
started water, but threw overboard our Guns, Iron and Stone Ballast,
Casks, Hoop Staves, Oil Jarrs, decay'd Stores, etc.; many of these last
Articles lay in the way at coming at Heavier. All this time the Ship made
little or no Water. At 11 a.m., being high Water as we thought, we try'd
to heave her off without Success, she not being afloat by a foot or more,
notwithstanding by this time we had thrown overboard 40 or 50 Tuns
weight. As this was not found sufficient we continued to Lighten her by
every method we could think off; as the Tide fell the ship began to make
Water as much as two pumps could free: at Noon she lay with 3 or 4
Streakes heel to Starboard; Latitude observed 15 degrees 45 minutes
South.
Tuesday, 12th. Fortunately we had little wind, fine weather, and a smooth
Sea, all this 24 Hours, which in the P.M. gave us an Opportunity to carry
out the 2 Bower Anchors, one on the Starboard Quarter, and the other
right a Stern, got Blocks and Tackles upon the Cables, brought the falls
in abaft and hove taught. By this time it was 5 o'Clock p.m.; the tide we
observed now begun to rise, and the leak increased upon us, which obliged
us to set the 3rd Pump to work, as we should have done the 4th also, but
could not make it work. At 9 the Ship righted, and the Leak gain'd upon
the Pumps considerably. This was an alarming and, I may say, terrible