Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Monday, 2nd. Ditto weather. P.M., the fishing-party caught as much fish
as came to 2 pounds a Man. Those that were in the Country met with
nothing New. Early in the A.M. I sent the Master in the pinnace out of
the Harbour, to sound about the Shoals in the Offing and to look for a
Channel to the Northward. At this time we had a breeze of wind from the
land, which continued till about 9. What makes me mention this is, that
it is the first Land breeze we have had since we have been in this River.
At low water lashed empty Casks under the Ship's bows, being in some
hopes of floating her the next high Water, and sent some hands a fishing,
while others were employ'd in refitting the Ship.
Tuesday, 3rd. Winds at South-East, Fore and Middle part gentle breeze,
the remainder a fresh gale. In the evening the fishing Party return'd,
having got as much fish as came to 2 pounds a Man. At high water we
attempted to heave the Ship off, but did not succeed. At Noon the Master
return'd, and reported he had found a passage out to Sea between the
Shoals, which passage lies out East-North-East or East by North from the
River mouth. He found these Shoals to Consist of Coral Rocks; he landed
upon one, which drys at low Water, where he found very large cockles* (*
Tridacna.) and a Variety of other Shell fish, a quantity of which he
brought away with him. He told me that he was 5 Leagues out at Sea,
having at that distance 21 fathoms water, and judg'd himself to be
without all the Shoals, which I very much doubted.* (* Cook was right.
The shoals extend for four leagues farther.) After this he came in Shore,
and Stood to the Northward, where he met with a Number of Shoals laying a
little distance from the Shore. About 9 in the evening he landed in a Bay
about 3 Leagues to the Northward of this Place, where he disturbed some
of the Natives, whom he supposed to be at supper; they all fled upon his
approach, and Left him some fresh Sea Eggs, and a fire ready lighted
behind them; but there was neither House nor Hut near. Although these
Shoals lay within sight of the Coast, and abound very much with Shell
fish and other small fish, which are to be caught at Low water in holes
in the Rocks, yet the Natives never visit them, for if they did we must
have seen of these Large shells on shore about their fire places. The
reason I do suppose is, that they have no Boats that they dare Venture so
far out at Sea in.* (* Nevertheless the natives do get out to the islands
which lie farther from the shore than these reefs, as Cook himself
afterwards found.)
Wednesday, 4th. Strong gales at South-East and fair weather. P.M., the
fishing party return'd with the usual success; at High water hove the
ship Afloat. A.M., employ'd trimming her upon an even Kiel, intending to
lay her ashore once more, to come at her bottom under the Larboard Main
Chains.
Thursday, 5th. Strong breezes at South-East and fair weather. P.M. Warped
the Ship over, and at high Water laid her ashore on the Sandbank on the
South side of the River, for I was afraid to lay her broad side to the
Shore where she lay before, because the ground lies upon too great a
decent, and she hath already received some Damage by laying there these
last Niep Tides, at least she still makes water.
[At Anchor, Endeavour River.]
Friday, 6th. Ditto weather. At low water in the P.M. had hardly 4 feet
water under the Ship; yet could not repair the Sheathing that was beat
off, the place being all under water. One of the Carpenter's crew, a Man
I could trust, went down and Examin'd it, and found 3 Streakes of the
Sheathing gone about 7 or 8 feet long, and the Main Plank a little
rubbed; this account agrees with the report of the Master and others that
were under her bottom before. The Carpenter, who I look upon to be well
skill'd in his profession, and a good judge in these matters, was of
Opinion that this was of little consequence; and as I found that it would
be difficult, if not impractical, for us to get under her bottom to
repair it, I resolved to spend no more time about it. Accordingly at high
water hove her off, and moor'd her alongside the beach, where the Stores,
etc., lay, and in the A.M. got everything in readiness for taking them on
board, and at the same time got on board 8 Tuns of Water, and stow'd in
the ground Tier in the after Hold. In the Morning Mr. Banks and
Lieutenant Gore with 3 Men went in a small Boat up the Harbour, with a
View to stay 2 or 3 days to try to Kill some of the Animals we have seen
about this place.
Saturday, 7th. Fresh breezes at South-East and fair weather. Employ'd
getting on board Coals, Ballast, etc., and caulking the Ship; a work that
could not be done while she lay aground. The Armourer and his Mate are
Still employ'd at the Forge making and repairing sundry Articles in the
Iron way.
Sunday, 8th. Gentle breeze and South-East, and clear weather. Early I
sent the Master in a Boat out to Sea to sound again about the Shoals,
because the account he had given of the Channell before mentioned was to
me by no means Satisfactory; likewise sent some hands to haul the Sean,
who caught near 80 pounds of fish; the rest of the people I gave leave to
go into the Country.
Monday, 9th. In the Day Ditto Winds, but in the night Calm. P.M., Mr.
Gore and Mr. Banks return'd, having met with nothing remarkable; they
were about 3 or 4 Leagues up in the Country without finding hardly any
Variation either in the Soil or Produce. In the Evening the Master
return'd, having been several Leagues out at Sea, and at that Distance
off saw Shoals without him, and was of opinion there was no getting out
to Sea that way. In his return he touched upon one of the Shoals, the
same as he was upon the first time he was out; he here saw a great number
of Turtle, 3 of which he Caught weighing 791 pounds. This occasion'd my
sending him out again this morning provided with proper gear for Striking
them, he having before nothing but a Boat Hook. Carpenters, Smiths, and
Coopers at their respective Employments, and the Seamen employed getting
on board stones, ballast, etc. This day all hands feasted upon Turtle for
the First time.* (* As they had had nothing fresh but a little fish for
four months, and scarcely any meat since they left the Society Islands,
eleven months before, we can imagine that this was a feast.)
Tuesday, 10th. Winds and weather as yesterday. Employ'd hoisting on board
and stowing away the ground Tier of Water. P.M., saw 7 or 8 of the
Natives on the South side of the River, and 2 of them came down upon the
Sandy point opposite the Ship; but as soon as I put off in a Boat in
order to speak with them they run away as fast as they could. At 11 Mr.
Banks, who had gone out to Sea with Mr. Molineux, the Master, return'd in
his own Small Boat, and gave but a Very bad account of our
Turtlecatchers. At the time he left them, which was about 6 o'Clock, they
had not got one, nor were they likely to get any; and yet the Master was
so obstinate that he would not return,* (* This seems rather hard upon
the Master.) which obliged me to send Mr. Gore out in the Yawl this
morning to order the Boat and People in, in Case they could not be
employ'd there to some Advantage. In the A.M. 4 of the Natives came down
to the Sandy point on the North side of the Harbour, having along with
them a small wooden Canoe with Outriggers, in which they seem'd to be
employed striking fish, etc. Some were for going over in a Boat to them;
but this I would not suffer, but let them alone without seeming to take
any Notice of them. At length 2 of them came in the Canoe so near the
Ship as to take some things we throw'd them. After this they went away,
and brought over the other 2, and came again alongside, nearer than they
had done before, and took such Trifles as we gave them; after this they
landed close to the Ship, and all 4 went ashore, carrying their Arms with
them. But Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their Arms, and come
and set down by him, after which most of us went to them, made them again
some presents, and stay'd by them until dinner time, when we made them
understand that we were going to eat, and asked them by signals to go
with us; but this they declined, and as soon as we left them they went
away in their Canoe. One of these Men was something above the Middle Age,
the other 3 were young; none of them were above 5 1/2 feet high, and all
their Limbs proportionately small. They were wholy naked, their Skins the
Colour of Wood soot, and this seem'd to be their Natural Colour. Their
Hair was black, lank, and cropt short, and neither wooly nor Frizled; nor
did they want any of their Fore Teeth, as Dampier has mentioned those did
he saw on the Western side of this Country. Some part of their Bodys had
been painted with red, and one of them had his upper lip and breast
painted with Streakes of white, which he called Carbanda. Their features
were far from being disagreeable; their Voices were soft and Tunable, and
they could easily repeat any word after us, but neither us nor Tupia
could understand one word they said.
Wednesday, 11th. Gentle land and Sea breezes. Employed Airing the Bread,
stowing away water, Stores, etc. In the night the Master and Mr. Gore
returned with the Long Boat, and brought with them one Turtle and a few
Shell fish; the Yawl Mr. Gore left upon the Shoal with 6 Men to endeavour
to strike more Turtle. In the morning 4 of the Natives made us another
Short Visit; 3 of them had been with us the preceeding day, the other was
a stranger. One of these men had a hole through the Bridge* (* The
cartilage of the nostril.) of his nose, in which he stuck a peice of Bone
as thick as my finger. Seeing this we examin'd all their Noses, and found
that they had all holes for the same purpose; they had likewise holes in
their Ears, but no Ornaments hanging to them; they had bracelets on their
Arms made of hair, and like Hoops of small Cord. They sometimes may wear
a kind of fillet about their Heads, for one of them had applied some part
of an old shirt which I had given them to this use.
Thursday, 12th. Winds and weather as Yesterday, and the Employment of the
People the same. At 2 A.M. the Yawl came on board, and brought 3 Turtle
and a large Skeat, and as there was a probability of succeeding in this
kind of fishery, I sent her out again after breakfast. About this time 5
of the Natives came over and stay'd with us all the Forenoon. There were
7 in all--5 Men, 1 Woman, and a Boy; these 2 last stay'd on the point of
Land on the other side of the River about 200 Yards from us. We could
very clearly see with our Glasses that the Woman was as naked as ever she
was born; even those parts which I always before now thought Nature would
have taught a woman to Conceal were uncovered.
Friday, 13th. Gentle breezes from the South-East in day, and Calm or
light Airs from the Land in the Night. Employ'd taking on board water,
Stores, etc. At Noon the Yawl return'd with one Turtle and a large Sting
ray.
Saturday, 14th. Gentle breezes at South-East and Hazey weather. In the
P.M. compleated our water; got on board all the Bread, and part of our
Stores; in the evening sent the Turtlers out again. A.M., employ'd
getting on board stone ballast and Airing the spare Sails. Mr. Gore,
being in the Country, shott one of the Animals before spoke of; it was a
small one of the sort, weighing only 28 pound clear of the entrails; its
body was ----* (* Blank in manuscript.) long; the head, neck, and
Shoulders very Small in proportion to the other parts. It was hair lipt,
and the Head and Ears were most like a Hare's of any Animal I know; the
Tail was nearly as long as the body, thick next the Rump, and Tapering
towards the End; the fore Legs were 8 Inches long, and the Hind 22. Its