Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Rocks, yet a part of some of them is sand. The Turtle Reef and some
others have a small Patch of Sand generally at the North end, that is
only cover'd at high water. These generally discover themselves before we
come near them. Altho' I speak of this as the Turtle Reef, yet it is not
to be doubted but what there are Turtle upon the most of them as well as
this one. After having well viewed our situation from the Mast Head, I
saw that we were surrounded on every side with Dangers, in so much that I
was quite at a loss which way to steer when the weather will permit us to
get under sail, for to beat back to the South-East the way we came, as
the Master would have had me done, would be an endless peice of work, as
the winds blow constantly from that Quarter, and very Strong, without
hardly any intermission;* (* The south-east trade wind blows home on this
coast very strong from about June to October. Though the Barrier Reef
prevents any great sea from getting up, the continuance of this wind is a
great nuisance for a sailing ship from many points of view though from
others it is an advantage.) on the other hand, if we do not find a
passage to the Northward we shall have to come back at last. At 11 the
Ship drove, and obliged us to bear away to a Cable and one third, which
brought us up again; but in the morning the Gale increasing, she drove
again. This made us let go the Small Bower Anchor, and bear away a whole
Cable on it and 2 on the other; and even after this she still kept
driving slowly, until we had got down Top gallant Masts, struck Yards and
Top masts close down, and made all snug; then she rid fast, Cape Bedford
bearing West-South-West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. In this situation we had
Shoals to the Eastward of us extending from the South-East by South to
the North-North-West, distant from the nearest part of them about 2
Miles.
Wednesday, 8th. Strong gales at South-South-East all this day, in so much
that I durst not get up Yards and Topmasts.
Thursday, 9th. In the P.M., the weather being something moderate, we got
up the Top masts, but keept the Lower yards down. At 6 in the morning we
began to heave in the Cable, thinking to get under sail; but it blow'd so
fresh, together with a head sea, that we could hardly heave the ship a
head, and at last was obliged to desist.
[Off Cape Flattery, Queensland.]
Friday, 10th. Fresh Gales at South-South-East and South-East by South.
P.M., the wind fell so that we got up the small Bower Anchor, and hove
into a whole Cable on the Best Bower. At 3 in the morning we got up the
Lower Yards, and at 7 weighed and stood in for the Land (intending to
seek for a passage along Shore to the northward), having a Boat ahead
sounding; depth of water as we run in from 19 to 12 fathoms. After
standing in an hour we edged away for 3 Small Islands* (* Now called the
Three Isles.) that lay North-North-East 1/2 East, 3 Leagues from Cape
Bedford. To these Islands the Master had been in the Pinnace when the
Ship was in Port. At 9 we were abreast of them, and between them and the
Main, having another low Island between us and the latter, which lies
West-North-West, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands. In this Channell had 14
fathoms water; the Northermost point of the Main we had in sight bore
from us North-North-West 1/2 West, distant 2 Leagues. 4 or 5 Leagues to
the North-East of this head land appeared 3 high Islands,* (* The
Direction Islands.) with some smaller ones near them, and the Shoals and
Reefs without, as we could see, extending to the Northward as far as
these Islands. We directed our Course between them and the above
headland, leaving a small Island* (* The Two Isles. Cook had now got
among the numerous islands and reefs which lie round Cape Flattery. There
are good channels between them, but they are very confusing to a
stranger. Cook's anxiety in his situation can well be imagined,
especially with his recent disaster in his mind.) to the Eastward of us,
which lies North by East, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands, having all the
while a boat ahead sounding. At Noon we were got between the head Land
and the 3 high Islands, distant from the former 2, and from the latter 4
Leagues; our Latitude by observation was 14 degrees 51 minutes South. We
now judged ourselves to be clear of all Danger, having, as we thought, a
Clear, open Sea before us; but this we soon found otherwise, and
occasioned my calling the Headland above mentioned Cape Flattery
(Latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 43 minutes
West). It is a high Promontory, making in 2 Hills next the sea, and a
third behind them, with low sandy land on each side; but it is better
known by the 3 high Islands out at Sea, the Northermost of which is the
Largest, and lies from the Cape North-North-East, distant 5 Leagues. From
this Cape the Main land trends away North-West and North-West by West.
Saturday, 11th. Fresh breezes at South-South-East and South-East by
South, with which we steer'd along shore North-West by West until one
o'Clock, when the Petty Officer at the Masthead called out that he saw
land ahead, extending quite round to the Islands without, and a large
reef between us and them; upon this I went to the Masthead myself. The
reef I saw very plain, which was now so far to windward that we could not
weather it, but what he took for Main land ahead were only small Islands,
for such they appeared to me; but, before I had well got from Mast head
the Master and some others went up, who all asserted that it was a
Continuation of the Main land, and, to make it still more alarming, they
said they saw breakers in a Manner all round us. We immediately hauld
upon a wind in for the Land, and made the Signal for the Boat, which was
ahead sounding, to come on board; but as she was well to leeward, we were
obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after came to an Anchor
under a point of the Main in 1/4 less 5* (* The nautical manner of
expressing four and three-quarters.) fathoms, about a Mile from the
Shore, Cape Flattery bearing South-East, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. After
this I landed, and went upon the point, which is pretty high, from which
I had a View of the Sea Coast, which trended away North-West by West, 8
or 10 Leagues, which was as far as I could see, the weather not being
very clear. I likewise saw 9 or 10 Small, Low Islands and some Shoals
laying off the Coast, and some large Shoals between the Main and the 3
high Islands, without which, I was now well assured, were Islands, and
not a part of the Mainland as some had taken them to be. Excepting Cape
Flattery and the point I am now upon, which I have named point Lookout,
the Main land next the sea to the Northward of Cape Bedford is low, and
Chequer'd with white sand and green Bushes, etc., for 10 or 12 Miles
inland, beyond which is high land. To the northward of Point Lookout the
shore appear'd to be shoal and flat some distance off, which was no good
sign of meeting with a Channell in with the land, as we have hitherto
done. We saw the footsteps of people upon the sand, and smoke and fire up
in the Country, and in the evening return'd on board, where I came to a
resolution to visit one of the high Islands in the Offing in my Boat, as
they lay at least 5 Leagues out at Sea, and seem'd to be of such a height
that from the Top of one of them I hoped to see and find a Passage out to
sea clear of the Shoals. Accordingly in the Morning I set out in the
Pinnace for the Northermost and largest of the 3, accompanied by Mr.
Banks. At the same time I sent the Master in the Yawl to Leeward, to
sound between the Low Islands and the Main. In my way to the Island I
passed over a large reef of Coral Rocks and sand, which lies about 2
Leagues from the Island; I left another to leeward, which lays about 3
Miles from the Island. [On Lizard Island, Queensland.] On the North part
of this is a low, sandy Isle, with Trees upon it; on the reef we pass'd
over in the Boat we saw several Turtle, and Chased one or Two, but caught
none, it blowing too hard, and I had no time to spare, being otherways
employ'd. I did not reach the Island until half an hour after one o'Clock
in the P.M. on
Sunday, 12th, when I immediately went upon the highest hill on the
Island,* (* Lizard Island.) where, to my Mortification, I discover'd a
Reef of Rocks laying about 2 or 3 Leagues without the Island, extending
in a line North-West and South-East, farther than I could see, on which
the sea broke very high.* (* This was the outer edge of the Barrier
Reefs.) This, however, gave one great hopes that they were the outermost
shoals, as I did not doubt but what I should be able to get without them,
for there appeared to be several breaks or Partitions in the Reef, and
Deep Water between it and the Islands. I stay'd upon the Hill until near
sun set, but the weather continued so Hazey all the time that I could not
see above 4 or 5 Leagues round me, so that I came down much disappointed
in the prospect I expected to have had, but being in hopes the morning
might prove Clearer, and give me a better View of the Shoals. With this
view I stay'd all night upon the Island, and at 3 in the Morning sent the
Pinnace, with one of the Mates I had with me, to sound between the Island
and the Reefs, and to Examine one of the breaks or Channels; and in the
mean time I went again upon the Hill, where I arrived by Sun Rise, but
found it much Hazier than in the Evening. About Noon the pinnace
return'd, having been out as far as the Reef, and found from 15 to 28
fathoms water. It blow'd so hard that they durst not venture into one of
the Channels, which, the Mate said, seem'd to him to be very narrow; but
this did not discourage me, for I thought from the place he was at he
must have seen it at disadvantage. Before I quit this Island I shall
describe it. It lies, as I have before observed, about 5 Leagues from the
Main; it is about 8 Miles in Circuit, and of a height sufficient to be
seen 10 or 12 Leagues; it is mostly high land, very rocky and barren,
except on the North-West side, where there are some sandy bays and low
land, which last is covered with thin, long grass, Trees, etc., the same
as upon the Main. Here is also fresh Water in 2 places; the one is a
running stream, the water a little brackish where I tasted it, which was
close to the sea; the other is a standing pool, close behind the sandy
beach, of good, sweet water, as I daresay the other is a little way from
the Sea beach. The only land Animals we saw here were Lizards, and these
seem'd to be pretty Plenty, which occasioned my naming the Island Lizard
Island. The inhabitants of the Main visit this Island at some Seasons of
the Year, for we saw the Ruins of Several of their Hutts and heaps of
Shells, etc. South-East, 4 or 5 Miles from this Island, lay the other 2
high Islands, which are very small compared to this; and near them lay 3
others, yet smaller and lower Islands, and several Shoals or reefs,
especially to the South-East. There is, however, a clear passage from
Cape Flattery to those Islands, and even quite out to the outer Reefs,
leaving the above Islands to the South-East and Lizard Island to the
North-West.
Monday, 13th. At 2 P.M. I left Lizard Island in order to return to the
Ship, and in my way landed upon the low sandy Isle mentioned in coming
out. We found on this Island* (* Eagle Island.) a pretty number of Birds,
the most of them sea Fowl, except Eagles; 2 of the Latter we shott and
some of the others; we likewise saw some Turtles, but got none, for the
reasons before mentioned. After leaving Eagle Isle I stood South-West
direct for the Ship, sounding all the way, and had not less than 8
fathoms, nor more than 14. I had the same depth of Water between Lizard