Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
217 degrees 38 minutes); between this Cape and the Bolt head is a Bay,
which I Named Temple Bay.* (* Richard Earl Temple, brother of George
Grenville, was First Lord of the Admiralty in 1756.) East 1/2 North, 9
Leagues from Cape Grenville, lay some tolerable high Islands, which I
called Sir Charles Hardy's Isles;* (* Admiral Sir C. Hardy was second in
command in Hawke's great action in Quiberon Bay, 1759.) those which lay
off the Cape I named Cockburn Isles.* (* Admiral George Cockburn was a
Commissioner of Longitude and Comptroller of the Navy when Cook left
England. Off Cape Grenville the Endeavour again got into what is now the
recognised channel along the land inside the reefs.)
[Nearing Cape York, Queensland.]
Monday, 20th. Fresh breezes at East-South-East. About one P.M. the
pinnace having got ahead, and the Yawl we took in Tow, we fill'd and
Steer'd North by West, for some small Islands we had in that direction.
After approaching them a little nearer we found them join'd or connected
together by a large Reef; upon this we Edged away North-West, and left
them on our Starboard hand, steering between them and the Island laying
off the Main, having a fair and Clear Passage; Depth of Water from 15 to
23 fathoms. At 4 we discover'd some low Islands and Rocks bearing
West-North-West, which we stood directly for. At half Past 6 we Anchor'd
on the North-East side of the Northermost, in 16 fathoms, distant from
the Island one Mile. This Isle lay North-West 4 Leagues from Cape
Grenville. On the Isles we saw a good many Birds, which occasioned my
calling them Bird Isles. Before and at Sunset we could see the Main land,
which appear'd all very low and sandy, Extends as far to the Northward as
North-West by North, and some Shoals, Keys, and low sandy Isles away to
the North-East of us. At 6 A.M. we got again under sail, with a fresh
breeze at East, and stood away North-North-West for some low Islands* (*
Boydong Keys.) we saw in that direction; but we had not stood long upon
this Course before we were obliged to haul close upon a wind in Order to
weather a Shoal which we discover'd on our Larboard bow, having at the
same time others to the Eastward of us. By such time as we had weathered
the Shoal to Leeward we had brought the Islands well upon our Leebow; but
seeing some Shoals spit off from them, and some rocks on our Starboard
bow, which we did not discover until we were very near them, made me
afraid to go to windward of the Islands; wherefore we brought too, and
made the signal for the pinnace, which was a head, to come on board,
which done, I sent her to Leeward of the Islands, with Orders to keep
along the Edge off the Shoal, which spitted off from the South side of
the Southermost Island. The Yawl I sent to run over the Shoals to look
for Turtle, and appointed them a Signal to make in case they saw many; if
not, she was to meet us on the other side of the Island. As soon as the
pinnace had got a proper distance from us we wore, and stood After her,
and run to Leeward of the Islands, where we took the Yawl in Tow, she
having seen only one small Turtle, and therefore made no Stay upon the
Shoal. Upon this Island, which is only a Small Spott of Land, with some
Trees upon it, we saw many Hutts and habitations of the Natives, which we
supposed come over from the Main to these Islands (from which they are
distant about 5 Leagues) to Catch Turtle at the time these Animals come
ashore to lay their Eggs. Having got the Yawl in Tow, we stood away after
the pinnace North-North-East and North by East to 2 other low Islands,
having 2 Shoals, which we could see without and one between us and the
Main. At Noon we were about 4 Leagues from the Main land, which we could
see Extending to the Northward as far as North-West by North, all low,
flat, and Sandy. Our Latitude by observation was 11 degrees 23 minutes
South, Longitude in 217 degrees 46 minutes West, and Course and distance
sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 22 degrees West, 40 Miles; soundings
from 14 to 23 fathoms. But these are best seen upon the Chart, as
likewise the Islands, Shoals, etc., which are too Numerous to be
Mentioned singly.* (* It is very difficult to follow Cook's track after
entering Providential Channel to this place. The shoals and islands were
so confusing that their positions are very vaguely laid down on Cook's
chart. It is easy to imagine how slow was his progress and tortuous his
course, with a boat ahead all the time constantly signalling shallow
water. Nothing is more trying to officers and men.)
Tuesday, 21st. Winds at East by South and East-South-East, fresh breeze.
By one o'Clock we had run nearly the length of the Southermost of the 2
Islands before mentioned, and finding that we could not well go to
windward of them without carrying us too far from the Main land, we bore
up, and run to Leeward, where we found a fair open passage. This done, we
steer'd North by West, in a parrallel direction with the Main land,
leaving a small Island between us and it, and some low sandy Isles and
Shoals without us, all of which we lost sight of by 4 o'Clock; neither
did we see any more before the sun went down, at which time the farthest
part of the Main in sight bore North-North-West 1/2 West. Soon after this
we Anchor'd in 13 fathoms, soft Ground, about five Leagues from the Land,
where we lay until day light, when we got again under sail, having first
sent the Yawl ahead to sound. We steer'd North-North-West by Compass from
the Northermost land in sight; Variation 3 degrees 6 minutes East. Seeing
no danger in our way we took the Yawl in Tow, and made all the Sail we
could until 8 o'Clock, at which time we discover'd Shoals ahead and on
our Larboard bow, and saw that the Northermost land, which we had taken
to be a part of the Main, was an Island, or Islands,* (*Now called Mount
Adolphus Islands.) between which and the Main their appeared to be a good
Passage thro' which we might pass by running to Leeward of the Shoals on
our Larboard bow, which was now pretty near us. Whereupon we wore and
brought too, and sent away the Pinnace and Yawl to direct us clear of the
Shoals, and then stood after them. Having got round the South-East point
of the Shoal we steer'd North-West along the South-West, or inside of it,
keeping a good lookout at the Masthead, having another Shoal on our
Larboard side; but we found a good Channel of a Mile broad between them,
wherein were from 10 to 14 fathoms. At 11 o'Clock, being nearly the
length of the Islands above mentioned, and designing to pass between them
and the Main, the Yawl, being thrown a stern by falling in upon a part of
the Shoal, She could not get over. We brought the Ship too, and Sent away
the Long boat (which we had a stern, and rigg'd) to keep in Shore upon
our Larboard bow, and the Pinnace on our Starboard; for altho' there
appear'd nothing in the Passage, yet I thought it necessary to take this
method, because we had a strong flood, which carried us on end very fast,
and it did not want much of high water. As soon as the Boats were ahead
we stood after them, and got through by noon, at which time we were by
observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South.
The nearest part of the Main, and which we soon after found to be the
Northermost,* (* Cape York, the northernmost point of Australia.) bore
West southerly, distant 3 or 4 Miles; the Islands which form'd the
passage before mentioned extending from North to North 75 degrees East,
distant 2 or 3 Miles. At the same time we saw Islands at a good distance
off extending from North by West to West-North-West, and behind them
another chain of high land, which we likewise judged to be Islands.* (*
The islands around Thursday Island.) The Main land we thought extended as
far as North 71 degrees West; but this we found to be Islands. The point
of the Main, which forms one side of the Passage before mentioned, and
which is the Northern Promontory of this Country, I have named York Cape,
in honour of his late Royal Highness, the Duke of York.* (* Edward
Augustus, Duke of York and Albany, was a brother of George III.) It lies
in the Longitude of 218 degrees 24 minutes West, the North point in the
Latitude of 10 degrees 37 minutes South, and the East point in 10 degrees
41 minutes. The land over and to the Southward of this last point is
rather low and very flatt as far inland as the Eye could reach, and looks
barren. To the Southward of the Cape the Shore forms a large open bay,
which I called Newcastle bay, wherein are some small, low Islands and
shoals, and the land all about it is very low, flatt, and sandy. The land
on the Northern part of the Cape is rather more hilly, and the shore
forms some small bays, wherein there appear'd to be good Anchorage, and
the Vallies appear'd to be tolerably well Cloathed with wood. Close to
the East point of the Cape are 3 small Islands, and a small Ledge of
rocks spitting off from one of them. There is also an Island laying close
to the North Point. The other Islands before spoke of lay about 4 Miles
without these; only two of them are of any extent. The Southermost is the
largest, and much higher than any part of the Main land. On the
North-West side of this Island seem'd to be good Anchorage, and Vallies
that to all appearance would afford both wood and fresh Water. These
Isles are known in the Chart by the name of York Isles.* (* Now called
Mount Adolphus Islands.) To the Southward and South-East of them, and
even to the Eastward and Northward, are several low Islands, rocks, and
Shoals. Our depth of Water in sailing between them and the Main was 12,
13, and 14 fathoms.* (* In this channel is the dangerous rock on which
the steamship Quetta was wrecked, with such terrible loss of life, in
1890. By the Endeavour's track she must have passed very near it.)
[Land upon Possession Island.]
Wednesday, 22nd. Gentle breezes at East by South and clear weather. We
had not steer'd above 3 or 4 Miles along shore to the westward before we
discover'd the land ahead to be Islands detached by several Channels from
the main land; upon this we brought too to Wait for the Yawl, and called
the other Boats on board, and after giving them proper instructions, sent
them away again to lead us thro' the Channell next the Main, and as soon
as the Yawl was on board made sail after them with the Ship. Soon after
we discover'd rocks and Shoals in this Channell, upon which I made the
Signal for the boats to lead thro' the next Channel to the Northward* (*
This led to Endeavour Strait, but the recognised track is the channel
farther north.) laying between the Islands, which they accordingly did,
we following with the Ship, and had not less than 5 fathoms; and this in
the narrowest part of the Channel, which was about a Mile and a 1/2 broad
from Island to Island. At 4 o'Clock we Anchor'd about a Mile and a 1/2 or
2 Miles within the Entrance in 6 1/2 fathoms, clear ground, distance from
the Islands on each side of us one Mile, the Main land extending away to
the South-West; the farthest point of which we could see bore from us
South 48 degrees West, and the Southermost point of the Islands, on the
North-West side of the Passage, bore South 76 degrees West. Between these
2 points we could see no land, so that we were in great hopes that we had
at last found out a Passage into the Indian seas; but in order to be
better informed I landed with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander, upon the Islands which lies at the South-East point of
the Passage. Before and after we Anchor'd we saw a Number of People upon
this Island, Arm'd in the same manner as all the others we have seen,
Except one man, who had a bow and a bundle of Arrows, the first we have