Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World
Concordia in Timor; but Cook was right in supposing he would have
received but a cold reception there. The Dutch discouraged any visits at
their outlying settlements. Rotte is a large island lying off the
south-west end of Timor.) as it is called in the Charts, which lies of
the South end of Timor, bore North-West. Course and distance sail'd since
Yesterday noon South 55 degrees 15 minutes West, 67 Miles. Dampier, who
has given us a large and, so far as I know, an Accurate discription of
the Island of Timor, says that it is 70 Leagues long and 16 Broad, and
that it lies North-East and South-West. I found the East side to lie
nearest North-East by East and South-West by West, and the South end to
lie in the Latitude 10 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude 236 degrees 5
minutes West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side,
which I observed to be free from Danger, and, excepting near the South
end, the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3, or 4 Miles inland,
and seem'd in many places to be intersected with Salt Creeks. Behind the
low land are Mountains, which rise one above another to a considerable
height. We continually saw upon it smoakes by day and fires by night, and
in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importuned by some
of my Officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this
Island, for refreshments; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that
the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a Jealous Eye that come among
these Islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to
put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.
[Anchor at Savu.]
Monday, 17th. Winds Easterly, with which we steer'd West-North-West until
2 o'Clock, when being pretty near the North end of Rotte, we hauled up
North-North-West, in order to go between it and Anaboa. After steering 3
Leagues upon this Course we edged away North-West by West, and by 6 we
were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of Anaboa,
which lies in the Latitude of 10 degrees 15 minutes South, bore
North-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Island of Rotte extending as far
to the Southward as South 36 degrees West. The North End of this Island
and the South end of Timor lies North 1/2 East and 1/2 West, distant
about 3 or 4 Leagues from each other. At the West end of the Passage
between Rotte and Anaboa are two Small Islands; the one lays near the
Rotte shore and the other off the South-West point of Anaboa; there is a
good Channel between the 2 of 5 or 6 Miles broad, which we came thro'.
Being now clear of the Islands we steer'd a West course all night until 6
a.m., when we unexpectedly saw an Island* (* Savu. An island about twenty
miles in length. It is but little visited or known by others than the
Dutch to this day.) bearing West-South-West, for by most of the Maps we
had on board we were to the Southward of all the Islands that lay between
Timor and Java; at least there were none laid down so near Timor in this
Latitude by almost one half, which made me at first think it a new
discovery; but in this I was mistaken. We now steer'd directly for it,
and by 10 o'Clock were close in with the North side, where we saw Houses,
Cocoa Nutt Trees, and a Flock of Cattle grazing; these were Temptations
hardly to be withstood by people in our situation, especially such as
were but in a very indifferent State of Health, and I may say mind too,
for in some this last was worse than the other, since I refused to touch
at the Island of Timor, whereupon I thought I could not do less than to
try to procure some refreshments here, as there appeared to be plenty.*
(* Cook's utter indifference as to what he eat or drank made him regard
privations in the matter of food with an equanimity which was not shared
by the rest of his companions.) With this View we hoisted out the
Pinnace, in which I sent Lieutenant Gore in shore to see if there were
any Convenient place to land, sending some trifles along with him to give
to the Natives in case he saw any. Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove
near to some Houses, and was met on the beach by 8 or 10 of the people,
who from both their behaviour and what they had about them shew'd that
they had Commerce with Europeans; upon Mr. Gore's returning with this
report, and likewise that there was No Anchorage for the Ship, I sent him
away with both money and goods to try to purchase some refreshments,
while we keept standing on and off with the Ship. At Noon we were about a
Mile from the Shore of the Island, which extends from South-East to
West-North-West, Latitude 10 degrees 27 minutes, Longitude 237 degrees 31
minutes West.
Tuesday, 18th. As soon as Mr. Gore landed he was meet on the beach by
several people, both Horse and Foot, who gave him to understand that
there was a Bay to Leeward where we could Anchor, and likewise get
refreshments. Upon Mr. Gore's return with this intelligence we bore away
for the Bay, in which we Anchor'd at 7 o'Clock in 38 fathoms Water, Clean
sandy bottom. About a Mile from Shore the North point of the Bay bore
North 30 degrees East, 2 1/2 Miles, and the South point or West end of
the Island bore South 63 degrees West. Two hours before we Anchor'd we
saw Dutch Colours hoisted in a Village which stands about a Mile inland,
and at day light in the Morning the same Colours were hoisted on the
beach abreast of the Ship. By this I was no longer in doubt but what here
was a Dutch settlement, and accordingly sent Lieutenant Gore on shore to
wait upon the Governor, or chief person residing here, to acquaint him
with the reasons that induced us to touch at this Island. Upon Mr. Gore's
landing we could perceive that he was received by a Guard of the Natives,
and not Dutch Troops, and Conducted up to the Village where the Colours
were hoisted last night. Some time after this I received a message from
him, acquainting me that he was there with the king of the Island, who
had told him that he could not supply him with anything without leave
from the Dutch Governor, who resided at another part of the Island, but
that he had sent to acquaint him of our Arrival and request.
[At Anchor. Savu.]
Wednesday, 19th. At 2 P.M. the Dutch Governor, and king of this part of
the Island, with his attendance, came on board with Mr. Gore (he having
left 2 Gentlemen ashore as Hostages). We entertained them at Dinner in
the best Manner we could, gave them plenty of good Liquor, made them some
considerable presents, and at their going away Saluted them with 9 Guns.
In return for these favours they made many fair Promises that we should
be immediately supplied with everything we wanted at the same price the
Dutch East India Company had it; and that in the morning Buffaloes, Hogs,
Sheep, etc., should be down on the beach for us to look at, and agree
upon a price. I was not at all at a loss for Interpreters, for both Dr.
Solander and Mr. Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a
Conversation with the Dutchman, and several of the Natives could speak
Portuguese, which language 2 or 3 of my people understood. In the morning
I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and several of the Officers and
Gentlemen, to return the King's Visit; but my Chief Business was to see
how well they would perform their Promises in regard to the things I
wanted. We had not been long ashore before we found that they had
promised more than they ever intended to perform; for, instead of finding
Buffaloes upon the beach, we did not so much as see one, or the least
preparations making for bringing any down, either by the Dutch Factor or
the King. The former pretended he had been very ill all night, and told
us that he had had a letter from the Governor of Concordia in Timor,
acquainting him that a ship (meaning us) had lately passed that Island,
and that if she should touch at this, and be in want of anything, he was
to supply her; but he was not to suffer her to make any stay, nor to
distribute, or leave behind her to be distributed, any valuable presents
to the inferior Natives. This we looked upon to be Afection that hardly
answer'd any purpose, unless it was leting us see how the Dutch had
insinuated themselves into favour with these people, which never could be
his intention. However, both he and the King still promised we should
have what we wanted, but pretended the Buffaloes were far in the Country,
and could not be brought down before night. With these excuses we were
obliged to be satisfied. The King gave us a dinner of boil'd Pork and
Rice, served up in Baskets after their manner, and Palm wine to drink;
with this, and some of our own Liquor, we fair'd Tolerable well. After we
had dined our Servants were called in to pertake of what remain'd, which
was more than they could Eat.
Thursday, 20th. We stay'd at the King's Pallace all the Afternoon, and at
last were obliged to return on board without doing anything farther than
a promise of having some Buffaloes in the morning; which we had now no
great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on shore again, and was
showed one small Buffaloe, which they asked 5 Guineas for. I offer'd 3,
which the man told me he would gladly take, and sent a Message to the
king to let him know what I had offer'd. The Messenger soon return'd, and
let me know that I could not have it under 5 Guineas; and this I refused
to give, knowing it was not worth one fifth part of the money. But this,
my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon
after about 100 Men, some Arm'd with Musquets, others with Lances, came
down to the Landing Place. Besides the officer that commanded this party,
there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese, and I believe was
born of Portuguese Parents. This man is here (as we afterwards
Understood) as an Assistant to the Dutch Factor. He deliver'd to me the
King's order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which
was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the
people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for
nothing, etc.; whereas the Natives shew'd the greatest inclination
imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more
desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us
Fowls and Syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this
and other Circumstances we were well Assured that this was all the
Dutchman's doing, in order to extort from us a sum of Money to put into
his own pocket. There hapned to be an old Raja at this time upon the
beach, whose Interest I had secured in the Morning by presenting him with
a Spy-glass; this man I now took by the hand, and presented him with an
old broad sword. This effectually secured him in our Interest, for the
Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and
made him and the Officer commanded the party to sit down at his back
side. Immediately after this trade was restored again for Fowls, etc.,
with more Spirit than ever; but before I could begin a Trade for
Buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10
Guineas for 2, one of which weigh'd only 160 pounds. After this I bought
7 more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid
for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove
them down to the Water side by Herds; but having got as many as I well
know'd what to do with, and likewise a number of Fowls, and a large
quantity of Syrup, I resolved to make no longer stay.
Friday, 21st. We got under sail, and stood away to the Westward along the
North side of the Island, and another smaller Island, which lies farther
to the Westward, which last bore from us at Noon South-South-East,
distant 2 Leagues.
[Description of Savu.]