Real Life In London, Volumes I. and II.
the repeated attempts to stop the issue of books and pamphlets sold, at
what is denominated the Temple of Reason, a part of the shop had been
boarded off, so as completely to screen the venders of any publication
from the eye of the purchaser, and by this means to render abortive all
future attempts to identify any supposed offender.
“Why,” said Dashall, “it is an old saying, and I believe a very
true one, If you tread upon a worm it will turn. Such appears to be
exemplified in the case of this man. You have also heard me remark, that
in London it signifies little by what means a man obtains popularity,
and here is a case exactly in point. An extensive body of rich men have
combined their efforts to crush an individual of little importance in
the world, and who perhaps would before this have been forgotten, but
for their indiscreet interference with his pursuits. They are now not
only foiled in their endeavours to obtain fresh exercise for their
Yeomen, and more work for their Lawyers, but, in consequence of their
determined opposition, the world is likely to be deluged with every
obnoxious publication, without any chance of detecting the sellers.”
“It is a curious manouvre,” said Tallyho.
“Yes, and it appears to have the desired effect with the Carliles and
their adherents. They carry on the war in ambuscade, and are selling,
without fear, books and ~77~~ pamphlets, of which but for the
_Constitutional Committee_, as they call themselves, perhaps half the
world would have known nothing. Such, however, is frequently the effect
of intemperate zeal, and these Gentlemen have blown into notoriety that
which they intended to suppress, whether upon the substantial grounds of
reason or propriety, I leave others to decide.”
Becoming now entangled in a double row of carriages, with little
prospect of making further progress for some time, our friends resigned
the curricle to the care of the servant, and proceeded on foot to the
City Coffee House, Ludgate Hill, for refreshment.{1}
1 When the City Coffee House was first opened, Dr. Johnson
frequently called there, and one morning observing a large
book upon the table, took it up, and after inspecting the
outside with great attention, he found it to be Minshew's
Dictionary of Twelve Languages; upon which he turned round
to the master of the house and asked him, “What use he could
have for such a book?” “To amuse literary Gentlemen,” was
the reply. “Do you under-stand any of these languages?” “I
find it a very difficult task, Sir, to understand my own,
and I am not possessed of the erudition of a Johnson.” The
Doctor looked at him stedfastly and replied, “Sir, you are a
very impudent fellow.” “Sir, I am sorry you think so,”
replied the proprietor, “and I hope we shall both of us mend
our manners.” On this the Doctor drank his chocolate, and
marched out of the house.
This Coffee House is much resorted to, and, in point of comfortable
accommodation, is perhaps not surpassed by any in London.
Having regaled themselves, and looked over the leading papers of the
day, they proceeded to inspect the interior of that noble edifice, the
pride of the British empire, St. Paul's Cathedral.
“According to vulgar tradition,” said Dashall, “this church occupies the
site of a Roman temple, which was consecrated to Diana; but the son of
Sir Christopher Wren, in his Parentalia, controverts this opinion, and
contends, that the first cathedral of the Episcopal see of London was
built in the area, the seat of the Roman Prætorian camp, the precise
spot on which the present church stands. It is supposed to have been
destroyed in the general persecution under the emperor Dioclesian, to
have been re-edified under Constantine, to have been demolished by the
Pagan Saxons, and to have been restored in the seventh century, when the
Saxons embraced ~78~~ Christianity. From this period it has been four
times rebuilt, and at the great fire of London was totally destroyed.”
These remarks premised by Dashall for the information of his friend,
they proceeded to view the several statues and funeral monuments,
displayed with uniformity and executed with considerable taste, by which
the interior of the church has been much improved in appearance.{1}
After having examined these stately and expressive mementos of
mortality, the two visitors were asked by their attendant, whether they
would pass to the stone and iron galleries outside of the church; but
this, having so lately enjoyed the extensive prospect from the Monument,
they declined, and proceeded at once to the Library, the first object to
be seen in the ascent.
Our two visitors were very much pleased with this handsome room, which
in its dimensions is about fifty feet by forty, having shelves of books
to the top, with a gallery
1 The statues of Dr. Johnson, and Howard the philanthropist,
both executed by the late Mr. Bacon, were opened for public
inspection in 1796. That of Dr. Johnson represents a moral
philosopher, with the attitude and expression of intense
thought, leaning against a column, indicative of the
firmness of mind and stability of principles of the man whom
it is intended to commemorate.
The statue of Howard, in which the character of active
benevolence is well expressed, stands upon a pedestal of
white marble, on which is a group of bas-relief,
representing a scene in a prison, where the philanthropist,
having broken the chains of the prisoners, is bringing
provision and clothing for their relief.
The statue of Sir William Jones, a man well known for his
extensive and multifarious erudition, whose study it was to
make the British name honoured and revered amongst the
nations of the East, is also the work of Bacon, and was
erected by the East India Company.
Amongst the monuments lately raised in commemoration of de-
parted worth, is that of Nelson, and in design and execution
it is not exceeded by any in the Cathedral.
In the open part of the Cathedral, the stranger will be
struck with the appearance of numerous tattered flags, the
trophies of British valour. Those over the aisle leading
from the western door, were taken in part during the
American War, and the rest by the Duke of York at
Valenciennes. Those on both sides near the north door, were
reprisals made from the French by Lord Howe, on the 1st of
June, 1794; opposite to which, on the right hand, are the
flags taken from the Spaniards by Lord Nelson, in 1797; and
on the left are those taken from the Dutch by Lord Duncan,
at Camperdown, and by Lord Keith at the Cape of Good Hope.
~79~~running along the sides. The floor is of oak, consisting of 2376
small square pieces, and is not only curious for its being inlaid,
without a nail or a peg to fasten the parts, but is very neat in the
workmanship, and beautiful in its appearance. The principal things
pointed out to a stranger, are several carved stone pillars, some Latin
manuscripts, written by Monks 800 years ago, and an English manuscript
illuminated, containing rules for the government of a convent, written
in old English, about 500 years since, all in fine preservation.
The clock-work and the great bell were the next curiosities that
attracted the attention of our visitants. On the latter, weighing
11,470lbs. the hammer of the clock strikes the hours. It was now noon,
and the ponderous hammer put itself into motion, and slowly, yet with
astounding impetus, struck the bell, and the reverberation tingled on
the auricular organs of the two strangers with painful and stunning
effect throughout the long protracted intimation of the hour; nor was it
until a considerable time had elapsed, that their hearing recovered from
the clanging agitation.{1}
1 This bell is never tolled but upon the death of some of
the Royal Family, of the Bishop of London, or of the Dean of
St. Paul's, and then the clapper is moved and not the bell.
In the stillness of night, the indication of the hour by the
deeply sonorous tone of this bell may be heard, not merely
over the immense Metropolis, but in distant parts of the
country. The fact is well known of the sentry at Windsor,
who, when accused of having been asleep one night on his
post, denied the charge, saying, “That he had been listening
to St. Paul's in London, which had just struck thirteen!”
And this assertion was, upon enquiry, satisfactorily
corroborated.
They were now ushered into the _Whispering Gallery_, which is
constructed on the very simple principle of an unbroken communication.
It is 140 yards in circumference, and a stone seat runs round the
gallery along the foot of the wall. On the side directly opposite to the
entrance door, Dashall and his friend seated themselves, when the person
who shewed the gallery whispered close to the door, at the distance
of 140 feet, and yet they heard his voice seemingly at their ear. The
shutting of the door resembled a clap of thunder. From this gallery,
round the inner circle of which is an iron balustrade, the marble
pavement of the church exhibits a beautiful appearance, and the
paintings of the dome, which have ~80~~ greatly suffered by time, are
thence seen to the greatest advantage.
The ascent to the ball is attended by some difficulty, and is
not encountered by many. Our two visitants therefore declined its
inspection. The interior diameter of the ball is six feet two inches,
and will contain twelve persons.{1}
1 A new ball and cross have lately replaced the former, of
similar dimensions. The erection of the scaffolding, and
subsequent proceedings of the workmen, at so fearful a
height from the “haunts of men,” excited a very general
interest, more particularly so on the recent happy
accomplishment of the undertaking, when the in-trepid
aeronauts cheered the admiring multitude far beneath, and,
seated in the clouds like the deities of Mount Olympus,
drank to the prosperity of their friends in the nether
regions.
The best view of the metropolis is obtained, in a clear day, from the
gallery at the foot of the lantern. The diminutive appearance of the
passengers and other objects beneath is extremely amusing, and resembles
the Elfin Panorama of the capital of Lilliput.
The calm serenity of the interior, the awful grandeur of the structure
itself, and the reflections arising from the contemplation of monuments
erected to the memory of departed worth, with the splendid achievements
of heroic minds, formed a strange contrast to the scene which presented
itself to their view on leaving this magnificent pile. The hurry,
bustle, and confusion of the street, the noisy vociferations of
coachmen, carmen, &c. burst upon their senses at a moment when the mind
had been soothed by reflection, and the eye gratified with a sight which
led imagination into futurity, before which the past and the present
had appeared to evaporate. The Hon. Tom Dashall, however, was quickly
recalled by observing his curricle so completely hemmed in between
contending parties to obtain liberation at the corner of Paul's chain,
as to afford but little chance of escape from its intricate situation
for some time.
“Zounds,” said Tom, “we had better return and take a seat among the
worthies within, for I have no idea of mounting the curricle, to sit and
be quizzed.”
“Any chance,” said Bob, “is better than that; but at all events your man
is able to take care of the carriage and cattle, and we are competent to
the care of ourselves.”