South: The Story of Shackleton's Last Expedition, 1914-1917
were not successful. Emperor penguins approached the ship occasionally,
and the birds were captured whenever possible for the fresh meat they
afforded. The _Aurora_ was quite helpless in the grip of the ice, and
after the engine-room bilges had been thawed and pumped out the boilers
were blown down. The pressure had been raised to sixty pounds, but
there was no chance of moving the ship, and the supply of coal was
limited. The story of the _Aurora’s_ drift during long months can be
told briefly by means of extracts from Stenhouse’s log:
“_May_ 21.—Early this morning there appeared to be movements in the
ice. The grating and grinding noise makes one feel the unimportance of
man in circumstances like ours. Twilight towards noon showed several
narrow, open leads about two cables from ship and in all directions.
Unable to get bearing, but imagine that there is little or no
alteration in ship’s position, as ship’s head is same, and Western
Mountains appear the same.... Hope all is well at Cape Evans and that
the other parties have returned safely. Wish we could relieve their
anxiety.
“_May_ 22.—Obtained good bearings of Beaufort Island, Cape Ross, and
Dunlop Island, which put the ship in a position eighteen miles south
75° east (true) from Cape Ross. Since the 14th, when reliable bearings
were last obtained, we have drifted north-west by north seven miles.
“_May_ 24.—Blizzard from south-south-east continued until 9 p.m., when
it moderated, and at 11.45 p.m. wind shifted to north-west, light, with
snow. Quite a lot of havoc has been caused during this blow, and the
ship has made much northing. In the morning the crack south of the ship
opened to about three feet. At 2 p.m. felt heavy shock and the ship
heeled to port about 70°. Found ice had cracked from port gangway to
north-west, and parted from ship from gangway along to stern. Crack
extended from stern to south-east. 7.35 p.m.—Ice cracked from port fore
chains, in line parallel to previous crack. The ice broke again between
the cracks and drifted to north-west for about ten yards. The ice to
southward then commenced to break up, causing heavy strain on ship, and
setting apparently north in large broken fields. Ship badly jammed in.
9.15 p.m.—Ice closed in again around ship. Two heavy windsqualls with a
short interval between followed by cessation of wind. We are in a
labyrinth of large rectangular floes (some with their points pressing
heavily against ship) and high pressure-ridges.
“_May_ 25.—In middle watch felt pressure occasionally. Twilight showed
a scene of chaos all around; one floe about three feet in thickness had
upended, driven under ship on port quarter. As far as can be seen there
are heavy blocks of ice screwed up on end, and the scene is like a
graveyard. I think swell must have come up under ice from seaward
(north-east), McMurdo Sound, and broken the ice, which afterwards
started to move under the influence of the blizzard. Hardly think swell
came from the Sound, as the cracks were wending from north-west to
south-east, and also as the Sound should be getting icebound by now. If
swell came from north-east then there is open water not far away. I
should like to know. I believe the Ross Sea is rarely entirely
ice-covered. Have bright moonlight now, which accentuates
everything—the beauty and loneliness of our surroundings, and
uselessness of ourselves, while in this prison: so near to Cape Evans
and yet we might as well be anywhere as here. Have made our
sledging-ration scales, and crew are busy making harness and getting
sledging equipment ready for emergencies. Temperature –30° Fahr.
“_May_ 26.—If the ship is nipped in the ice, the ship’s company
(eighteen hands) will take to four sledges with one month’s rations and
make for nearest land. Six men and one sledge will endeavour to make
Cape Evans via the western land, Butler Point, Hut Point, etc. The
remaining twelve will come along with all possible speed, but no forced
marches, killing and depot-ing penguins and seals for emergency
retreats. If the ship remains here and makes no further drift to the
north, towards latter end of July light will be making. The sun returns
August 23. The sea-ice should be fairly safe, and a party of three,
with one month’s rations, will proceed to Cape Evans. If the ice sets
north and takes the ship clear of land, we will proceed to New Zealand,
bunker, get extra officer and four volunteers, provisions, etc., push
south with all speed to the Barrier, put party on to the Barrier, about
two miles east of Cape Crozier, and land all necessary stores and
requirements. The ship will stand off until able to reach Cape Evans.
If necessary, party will depot all stores possible at Corner Camp and
go on to Cape Evans. If worst has happened my party will lay out the
depot at the Beardmore for Shackleton. If the ship is released from the
ice after September we must endeavour to reach Cape Evans before going
north to bunker. We have not enough coal to hang about the Sound for
many days.
“_May_ 28.—By the position obtained by meridian altitude of stars and
bearing of Mount Melbourne, we have drifted thirty-six miles north-east
from last bearings taken on 23rd inst. The most of this must have been
during the blizzard of the 24th. Mount Melbourne is one hundred and
eleven miles due north of us, and there is some doubt in my mind as to
whether the peak which we can see is this mountain. There may be a
mirage.... In the evening had the football out on the ice by the light
of a beautiful moon. The exercise and break from routine are a splendid
tonic. Ice-noises sent all hands on board.
“_June_ 1.—Thick, hazy weather. In the afternoon a black streak
appeared in the ice about a cable’s length to the westward and
stretching north and south. 8 p.m.—The black line widened and showed
long lane of open water. Apparently we are fast in a floe which has
broken from the main field. With thick weather we are uncertain of our
position and drift. It will be interesting to find out what this crack
in the ice signifies. I am convinced that there is open water, not far
distant, in the Ross Sea.... To-night Hooke is trying to call up Cape
Evans. If the people at the hut have rigged the set which was left
there, they will hear ‘All well’ from the _Aurora_. I hope they have.
[The messages were not received.]
“_June_ 8.—Made our latitude 75° 59´ S. by altitude of Sirius. This is
a very monotonous life, but all hands appear to be happy and contented.
Find that we are not too well off for meals and will have to cut
rations a little. Grady is taking exercise now and should soon be well
again. He seems very anxious to get to work again, and is a good man.
No wireless calls to-night, as there is a temporary breakdown—condenser
jar broken. There is a very faint display of aurora in northern sky. It
comes and goes almost imperceptibly, a most fascinating sight. The
temperature is –20° Fahr.; 52° of frost is much too cold to allow one
to stand for long.
“_June_ 11.—Walked over to a very high pressure-ridge about a quarter
of a mile north-north-west of the ship. In the dim light walking over
the ice is far from being monotonous, as it is almost impossible to see
obstacles, such as small, snowed-up ridges, which makes us wary and
cautious. A dip in the sea would be the grand finale, but there is
little risk of this as the water freezes as soon as a lane opens in the
ice. The pressure-ridge is about fifteen to twenty feet high for
several hundred feet, and the ice all about it is bent up in a most
extraordinary manner. At 9 p.m. Hooke called Cape Evans, ‘All
well—_Aurora_,’ etc.; 10 p.m., weather reports for 8 p.m. sent to
Wellington, New Zealand, and Melbourne, via Macquarie Island. [The
dispatch of messages from the _Aurora_ was continued, but it was
learned afterwards that none of them had been received by any station.]
“_June_ 13.—The temperature in the chart-room ranges from zero to a
little above freezing-point. This is a very disturbing factor in rates
of the chronometers (five in number, 3 G.M.T. and 2 Sid.T.), which are
kept in cases in a padded box, each case covered by a piece of blanket,
and the box covered by a heavy coat. In any enclosed place where people
pass their time, the niches and places where no heat penetrates are
covered with frozen breath. There will be a big thaw-out when the
temperature rises.
“_June_ 14.—Mount Melbourne is bearing north 14° W (true). Our
approximate position is forty miles east-north-east of Nordenskjold Ice
Tongue. At 9 p.m. Hooke called Cape Evans and sent weather reports to
Wellington and Melbourne via Macquarie Island. Hooke and Ninnis on
several evenings at about 11 o’clock have heard what happened to be
faint messages, but unreadable. He sent word to Macquarie Island of
this in hopes that they would hear and increase the power.
“_June_ 20.—During this last blow with its accompanying drift-snow
there has been much leakage of current from the aerial during the
sending of reports. This is apparently due to induction caused by the
snow accumulating on the insulators aloft, and thus rendering them
useless, and probably to increased inductive force of the current in a
body of snowdrift. Hooke appears to be somewhat downhearted over it,
and, after discussing the matter, gave me a written report on the
non-success (up to the present time) of his endeavours to establish
communication. He thinks that the proximity of the Magnetic Pole and
Aurora Australis might affect things. The radiation is good and
sufficient for normal conditions. His suggestion to lead the down lead
wires out to the ahead and astern would increase scope, but I cannot
countenance it owing to unsettled state of ice and our too lofty poles.
“_June_ 21.—Blowing gale from south-west throughout day, but for short
spell of westerly breeze about 5 p.m. Light drift at frequent
intervals, very hazy, and consequently no land in sight during short
twilight. Very hard up for mitts and clothing. What little we have on
board I have put to one side for the people at the hut. Have given
Thompson instructions to turn crew to making pair mitts and helmet out
of Jaeger fleece for all hands forward. With strict economy we should
make things spin out; cannot help worrying over our people at the hut.
Although worrying does no good, one cannot do otherwise in this present
impotent state. 11 p.m.—Wind howling and whistling through rigging.
Outside, in glare of moon, flying drift and expanse of ice-field.
Desolation!
“_June_ 22.—To-day the sun has reached the limit of his northern
declination and now he will start to come south. Observed this day as
holiday, and in the evening had hands aft to drink to the health of the
King and the Expedition. All hands are happy, but miss the others at
Cape Evans. I pray to God we may soon be clear of this prison and in a
position to help them. We can live now for sunlight and activity.
“_July_ 1.—The 1st of July! Thank God. The days pass quickly. Through
all my waking hours one long thought of the people at Cape Evans, but
one must appear to be happy and take interest in the small happenings
of shipboard.
“_July_ 3.—Rather hazy with very little light. Moderate west-north-west
to south-west winds until noon, when wind veered to south and
freshened. No apparent change in ship’s position; the berg is on the
same bearing (1 point on the port quarter) and apparently the same
distance off. Mount Melbourne was hidden behind a bank of clouds. This
is our only landmark now, as Franklin Island is towered in perpetual
gloom. Although we have had the berg in sight during all the time of
our drift from the entrance to McMurdo Sound, we have not yet seen it
in a favourable light, and, were it not for its movement, we might