The Bābur-nāma in English (Memoirs of Bābur)
take their way by Bāmīān and Saighān, but those crossing by it in
winter, go on by Āb-dara (Water-valley).[752] Shibr-tū excepted, all the
Hindū-kush roads are closed for three or four months in winter,[753]
because no road through a valley-bottom is passable when the waters are
high. If any-one thinks to cross the Hindū-kush at that time, over the
mountains instead of through a valley-bottom, his journey is hard
indeed. The time to cross is during the three or four autumn months when
the snow is less and the waters are low. [Sidenote: Fol. 131.] Whether
on the mountains or in the valley-bottoms, Kāfir highwaymen are not few.
The road from Kābul into Khurāsān passes through Qandahār; it is quite
level, without a pass.
Four roads lead into Kābul from the Hindūstān side; one by rather a low
pass through the Khaibar mountains, another by way of Bangash, another
by way of Naghr (var. Naghz),[754] and another through Farmūl;[755] the
passes being low also in the three last-named. These roads are all
reached from three ferries over the Sind. Those who take the Nīl-āb[756]
ferry, come on through the Lamghānāt.[757] In winter, however, people
ford the Sind-water (at Hāru) above its junction with the
Kābul-water,[758] and ford this also. In most of my expeditions into
Hindūstān, I crossed those fords, but this last time (932 AH.-1525 AD.),
when I came, defeated Sl. Ibrāhīm and conquered the country, I crossed
by boat at Nīl-āb. Except at the one place mentioned above, the
Sind-water can be crossed only by boat. Those again, who cross at
Dīn-kot[759] go on through Bangash. Those crossing at Chaupāra, if they
take the Farmūl road, go on to Ghaznī, or, if they go by the Dasht, go
on to Qandahār.[760]
(_f. Inhabitants of Kābul._)
There are many differing tribes in the Kābul country; in its dales and
plains are Turks and clansmen[761] and `Arabs; in its town and in many
villages, Sārts; out in the districts and also [Sidenote: Fol. 131b.] in
villages are the Pashāī, Parājī, Tājīk, Bīrkī and Afghān tribes. In the
western mountains are the Hazāra and Nikdīrī tribes, some of whom speak
the Mughūlī tongue. In the north-eastern mountains are the places of the
Kāfirs, such as Kitūr (Gawār?) and Gibrik. To the south are the places
of the Afghān tribes.
Eleven or twelve tongues are spoken in Kābul,—`Arabī, Persian, Turkī,
Mughūlī, Hindī, Afghānī, Pashāī, Parājī, Gibrī, Bīrkī and Lamghānī. If
there be another country with so many differing tribes and such a
diversity of tongues, it is not known.
(_e. Sub-divisions of the Kābul country._)
The [Kābul] country has fourteen _tūmāns_.[762]
Bajaur, Sawād and Hash-nagar may at one time have been dependencies of
Kābul, but they now have no resemblance to cultivated countries
(_wilāyāt_), some lying desolate because of the Afghāns, others being
now subject to them.
In the east of the country of Kābul is the Lamghānāt, 5 _tūmāns_ and 2
_bulūks_ of cultivated lands.[763] The largest of these is Nīngnahār,
sometimes written Nagarahār in the histories.[764] Its _dārogha's_
residence is in Adīnapūr,[765] some 13 _yīghāch_ east of Kābul by a very
bad and tiresome road, going in three or four places over small
hill-passes, and in three or four others, through [Sidenote: Fol. 132.]
narrows.[766] So long as there was no cultivation along it, the
Khirilchī and other Afghān thieves used to make it their beat, but it
has become safe[767] since I had it peopled at Qarā-tū,[768] below
Qūrūq-sāī. The hot and cold climates are separated on this road by the
pass of Bādām-chashma (Almond-spring); on its Kābul side snow falls,
none at Qūrūq-sāī, towards the Lamghānāt.[769] After descending this
pass, another world comes into view, other trees, other plants (or
grasses), other animals, and other manners and customs of men. Nīngnahār
is nine torrents (_tūqūz-rūd_).[770] It grows good crops of rice and
corn, excellent and abundant oranges, citrons and pomegranates. In 914
AH. (1508-9 AD.) I laid out the Four-gardens, known as the Bāgh-i-wafā
(Garden-of-fidelity), on a rising-ground, facing south and having the
Sūrkh-rūd between it and Fort Adīnapūr.[771] There oranges, citrons and
pomegranates grow in abundance. The year I defeated Pahār Khān and took
Lāhor and Dipālpūr,[772] I had plantains (bananas) brought and planted
there; they did very well. The year before I had had sugar-cane planted
there; it also did well; some of it was sent to Bukhārā and
Badakhshān.[773] The garden lies high, has running-water close at hand,
and a mild winter [Sidenote: Fol. 132b.] climate. In the middle of it, a
one-mill stream flows constantly past the little hill on which are the
four garden-plots. In the south-west part of it there is a reservoir, 10
by 10,[774] round which are orange-trees and a few pomegranates, the
whole encircled by a trefoil-meadow. This is the best part of the
garden, a most beautiful sight when the oranges take colour. Truly that
garden is admirably situated!
The Safed-koh runs along the south of Nīngnahār, dividing it from
Bangash; no riding-road crosses it; nine torrents (_tūqūz-rūd_) issue
from it.[775] It is called Safed-koh[776] because its snow never
lessens; none falls in the lower parts of its valleys, a half-day's
journey from the snow-line. Many places along it have an excellent
climate; its waters are cold and need no ice.
The Sūrkh-rūd flows along the south of Adīnapūr. The fort stands on a
height having a straight fall to the river of some 130 ft. (40-50
_qārī_) and isolated from the mountain behind it on the north; it is
very strongly placed. That mountain runs between Nīngnahār and
Lamghān[777]; on its head snow falls when it snows [Sidenote: Fol. 133.]
in Kābul, so Lamghānīs know when it has snowed in the town.
In going from Kābul into the Lamghānāt,[778]—if people come by
Qūrūq-sāī, one road goes on through the Dīrī-pass, crosses the
Bārān-water at Būlān, and so on into the Lamghānāt,—another goes through
Qarā-tū, below Qūrūq-sāī, crosses the Bārān-water at Aūlūgh-nūr
(Great-rock?), and goes into Lamghān by the pass of Bād-i-pīch.[779] If
however people come by Nijr-aū, they traverse Badr-aū (Tag-aū), and
Qarā-nakariq (?), and go on through the pass of Bād-i-pīch.
Although Nīngnahār is one of the five _tūmāns_ of the Lamghān _tūmān_
the name Lamghānāt applies strictly only to the three (mentioned below).
One of the three is the `Alī-shang _tūmān_, to the north of which are
fastness-mountains, connecting with Hindū-kush and inhabited by Kāfirs
only. What of Kāfiristān lies nearest to `Alī-shang, is Mīl out of which
its torrent issues. The tomb of Lord Lām,[780] father of his Reverence
the prophet Nuḥ (Noah), is in this _tūmān_. In some histories he is
called Lamak and Lamakān. Some people are observed often to change _kāf_
for _ghain_ (_k_ for _gh_); it would seem to be on this account that the
country is called Lamghān.
The second is Alangār. The part of Kāfiristān nearest to it is Gawār
(Kawār), out of which its torrent issues (the Gau or Kau). This torrent
joins that of `Alī-shang and flows with it [Sidenote: Fol. 133b.] into
the Bārān-water, below Mandrāwar, which is the third _tūmān_ of the
Lamghānāt.
Of the two _bulūks_ of Lamghān one is the Nūr-valley.[781] This is a
place (_yīr_) without a second[782]; its fort is on a beak (_tūmshūq_)
of rock in the mouth of the valley, and has a torrent on each side; its
rice is grown on steep terraces, and it can be traversed by one road
only.[783] It has the orange, citron and other fruits of hot climates in
abundance, a few dates even. Trees cover the banks of both the torrents
below the fort; many are _amlūk_, the fruit of which some Turks call
_qarā-yīmīsh_;[784] here they are many, but none have been seen
elsewhere. The valley grows grapes also, all trained on trees.[785] Its
wines are those of Lamghān that have reputation. Two sorts of grapes are
grown, the _arah-tāshī_ and the _sūhān-tāshī_;[786] the first are
yellowish, the second, full-red of fine colour. The first make the more
cheering wine, but it must be said that neither wine equals its
reputation for cheer. High up in one of its glens, apes (_maimūn_) are
found, none below. Those people (_i.e._ Nūrīs) used to keep swine but
they have given it up in our time.[787]
Another _tūmān_ of Lamghān is Kūnār-with-Nūr-gal. It lies somewhat
out-of-the-way, remote from the Lamghānāt, with its borders in amongst
the Kāfir lands; on these accounts its people give in tribute rather
little of what they have. The Chaghān-sarāī [Sidenote: Fol. 134.] water
enters it from the north-east, passes on into the _bulūk_ of Kāma, there
joins the Bārān-water and with that flows east.
Mīr Sayyid `Alī _Hamadānī_,[788]—God's mercy on him!—coming here as he
journeyed, died 2 miles (1 _shar`ī_) above Kūnār. His disciples carried
his body to Khutlān. A shrine was erected at the honoured place of his
death, of which I made the circuit when I came and took Chaghān-sarāī in
920 AH.[789]
The orange, citron and coriander[790] abound in this _tūmān_. Strong
wines are brought down into it from Kāfiristān.
A strange thing is told there, one seeming impossible, but one told to
us again and again. All through the hill-country above Multa-kundī,
_viz._ in Kūnār, Nūr-gal, Bajaur, Sawād and thereabouts, it is commonly
said that when a woman dies and has been laid on a bier, she, if she has
not been an ill-doer, gives the bearers such a shake when they lift the
bier by its four sides, that against their will and hindrance, her
corpse falls to the ground; but, if she has done ill, no movement
occurs. This was heard not only from Kūnārīs but, again and again, in
Bajaur, [Sidenote: Fol. 134b.] Sawād and the whole hill-tract.
Ḥaidar-`alī _Bajaurī_,—a sulṯān who governed Bajaur well,—when his
mother died, did not weep, or betake himself to lamentation, or put on
black, but said, "Go! lay her on the bier! if she move not, I will have
her burned."[792] They laid her on the bier; the desired movement
followed; when he heard that this was so, he put on black and betook
himself to lamentation.
(_Authors note to Multa-kundī._) As Multa-kundī is known the
lower part of the _tūmān_ of Kūnār-with-Nūr-gal; what is below
(_i.e._ on the river) belongs to the valley of Nūr and to
Atar.[791]
Another _bulūk_ is Chaghān-sarāī,[793] a single village with little
land, in the mouth of Kāfiristān; its people, though Muṣalmān, mix with
the Kāfirs and, consequently, follow their customs.[794] A great torrent
(the Kūnār) comes down to it from the north-east from behind Bajaur, and
a smaller one, called Pīch, comes down out of Kāfiristān. Strong
yellowish wines are had there, not in any way resembling those of the
Nūr-valley, however. The village has no grapes or vineyards of its own;
its wines are all brought from up the Kāfiristān-water and from
Pīch-i-kāfiristānī.
The Pīch Kāfirs came to help the villagers when I took the place. Wine
is so commonly used there that every Kāfir has his leathern wine-bag
(_khīg_) at his neck, and drinks wine instead of water.[795]
Kāma, again, though not a separate district but dependent on Nīngnahār,
is also called a _bulūk_.[796] [Sidenote: Fol. 135.]
Nijr-aū[797] is another _tūmān_. It lies north of Kābul, in the
Kohistān, with mountains behind it inhabited solely by Kāfirs; it is a
quite sequestered place. It grows grapes and fruits in abundance. Its
people make much wine but, they boil it. They fatten many fowls in
winter, are wine-bibbers, do not pray, have no scruples and are
Kāfir-like.[798]
In the Nijr-aū mountains is an abundance of _archa_, _jīlghūza_, _bīlūt_
and _khanjak_.[799] The first-named three do not grow above Nigr-aū but
they grow lower, and are amongst the trees of Hindūstān. _Jīlghūza_-wood