Things near & far
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_THINGS NEAR AND FAR_
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
THE TERROR
THE BOWMEN
DR. STIGGINS
THE GREAT RETURN
HIEROGLYPHICS
THE HOUSE OF SOULS
Including THE GREAT GOD PAN and THE THREE IMPOSTORS
THE HILL OF DREAMS
THE CHRONICLE OF CLEMENDY
WAR AND THE CHRISTIAN FAITH
THE SECRET GLORY
FAR OFF THINGS
_THINGS NEAR & FAR_
_BY ARTHUR MACHEN_
_LONDON: MARTIN SECKER_
_Printed in Great Britain_
LONDON: MARTIN SECKER LTD. (1923)
_Chapter I_
The road from Newport to Caerleon-on-Usk winds, as it comes near to
the old Roman, fabulous city, with the winding of the tawny river
which I have always supposed must be somewhat of the colour of the
Tiber. This road was made early in the nineteenth century when
stage-coaching came to perfection, for the old road between the two
towns passed over the Roman bridge--blown down the river by a great
storm in the seventeen-nineties--and climbed the break-neck hill to
Christchurch. Well, this new road as I remember it was terraced, as
it were, high above the Usk to the west, and above it to the east
rose a vast wood, or what seemed a vast wood in 1870, called St.
Julian’s Wood, of some fame as a ghostly place. It was cut down long
ago by an owner who thought timber of high growth better than ghosts.
On the one side, then, the steep dark ascent of St. Julian’s Wood;
on the other, the swift fall of the bank to the yellow river, where,
likely enough, there would be a man in a coracle fishing for salmon.
And then there came a certain turn, where suddenly one saw the long,
great wall of the mountain in the west, and the high dome of Twyn
Barlwm, a prehistoric tumulus; and down below, an island in the green
meadows by the river, the little white Caerleon, shining in the sun.
There is a grey wall on one side of it, a very old and mouldering
wall to look at, and indeed it is old enough, for it is all that
remains of the Roman wall of Isca Silurum, headquarters of the Second
Augustan Legion.
But there, white in the sun of some summer afternoon of fifty years
ago or so, Caerleon still stands for me shining, beautiful, a little
white city in a dream, with the white road coming down the hill, from
Newport, down out of St. Julian’s Wood, and so to the level river
meadows, and so winding in a curve and coming to the town over the
bridge.
That is my vision of the place where I was born; no doubt the
recollection of driving home beside my father on some shining summer
afternoon of long ago; but of later years another vision of the same
white town and white road has come to me. I have “made this up,” as
the children say, though, no doubt, it is all true. The time now
goes back from the early ’seventies to the early ’fifties, and two
young ladies are setting out from the Vicarage--it stood practically
in the churchyard, pretty well in the position of that other, that
illustrious Vicarage at Haworth, and my Aunt Maria could never see
any reason why a vicarage should not be in a churchyard--the two
young ladies closed the Vicarage door, and made their way down the
deserted street, where the grass was green between the cobble-stones,
and so passed over the bridge and into the Newport road. They were
going to meet John, home from Jesus College, Oxford; and no doubt
they talked eagerly of how well John was doing at Oxford, and
wondered when he would be ordained, and where his first curacy would
be, and what a good clergyman he would make, and how they hoped he
would marry somebody nice, and what a pity it was that John was not
at home when Mr. Tennyson came to Caerleon and stayed at the Hanbury
Arms, and smoked a black clay tobacco pipe with his feet on the
mantelpiece; very odd, but poets always were odd people and “Airy
Fairy Lilian” was very pretty. The Vicar had called of course, and
had been a little shocked at the pipe; still, Papa was always so
amiable and ready to make allowances.
“Your grandfather,” Aunt Maria said to me years afterwards, “was
a most amiable man, but he could not bear radishes or the _Adeste
fideles_.”
Well, the two young ladies, Anne and Maria, shading themselves from
the heat of the sun with their fringed parasols, pace decorously
along the Newport road discussing these and many other matters;
parish-matters, of helping poor people and old people and sick
people; county matters, the great doings that there would be at the
Park when Sir (?) Hanbury Leigh was to have a great party from London
on August 12th to shoot grouse on the mountain; Church matters; how
a Mr. Leonard had just been given the living of Kemeys Commander and
had actually been heard to say, “I call myself a Catholic priest”
and, in spite of the Creeds, wasn’t that going rather far? And what
would John say to that? And, somehow, I fancy the talk came circling
again and again back to John, and how glad he would be to be at home
again, and how lucky it was that Mrs. Williams Pantyreos had come in
that very morning because John always said that he never got butter
like the Pantyreos butter anywhere, and how it was to be hoped that
the weather would keep up till Wednesday when they were all going to
drive to Aunt Mary’s at Abergavenny--except Mamma, who said, “Young
gadabout ne’er won a clout”--and how this beautiful sunshine must be
doing Cousin Blanche’s cough a great deal of good: John would like to
see Cousin Blanche again.
And so on, and so on, and the two sisters walk along the white
limestone road, picking a flower now and again, for Anne paints
flowers and Maria is much interested in Botany--I am not sure whether
she had acquired Miss Pratt’s three-volume work on the subject at
that date. And the evening draws along, and the sun hangs over the
huge round of Mynydd Maen in the west, and the scents of St. Julian’s
dark, deep wood fill the stilled air; till Maria says suddenly:
“Anne! here is the omnibus at last, and, there! I believe I can see
John’s face.”
The old dim yellow and faded chocolate omnibus from the Bull--I
remember it in its last days just before they made the line, and
never will I speak of _this_ omnibus as a ’bus--comes lumbering on
its way, and the old driver, recognising the “two Miss Joneses the
Vicarage” and knowing that Master John is inside, causes it to stop.
John, a mild-looking young man with little side whiskers, gets out
and kisses his sisters; and the three then get in, and the omnibus
lumbers down the hill towards Caerleon, the three chattering of
Oxford, of plans and prospects, of Caerleon news and how happy Papa
looked at breakfast. And so the evening draws on and the shadows
deepen and the walls of white Caerleon glimmer and grow phantasmal
like the old grey Roman wall as they cross the bridge and the Usk
swims to high tide, the tawny yellow tinged with something of the
sunset redness that glows over the mountain. The three are talking
and chattering all the while, making plans for holidays and happiness
and long bright years and the joy of life--a correct joy, but still
joy--before them, and John is enquiring eagerly after Cousin Blanche
and nodding and smiling to the Bluecoat boys and girls and saying:
“I’ll unpack my box to-night and show you my prizes--Parker’s ‘Gothic
Architecture,’ in three volumes, and Hooker and a lot more,” and they
are hoping again and again that Wednesday will be fine, and Blanche
is sure to be quite well by this, and John is feeling his young
cheeks grow a little red when--it is night.
Alas! They are all dead, years and years ago. The kind Vicar and his
grim, good wife are dead. Poor Cousin Blanche perished of consumption
in her fresh youth; no summer sun could allay the racking of that
cough of hers. Anne followed her, by the same way to the same end: I
have the “Holy Dying” that John, my father, gave her. There are two
inscriptions in it; one facing the rubricated title-page, now “foxed”
with time. This runs:
To Anne E. Jones
from her affectionate
Brother John Edward
On her Birthday, and in
remembrance of the 29th
September, 1857[A]
April 16th, 1858.
[A] The date, I think, of their father’s death.
The other, on the recto of the leaf, is as follows:
Johannes Edvardus Jones,
In memoriam A.E.J.J.
Quæ obdormivit in Jesu
29 mo Martii MDCCCLIX
And those of the party that lived longer knew more of sorrow, and
more of broken hopes and of dreams that never came true. And thus,
advisedly, I begin this second chapter in the story of a young man’s
dreams and hopes and adventures. _Ego quoque_--I am forgetting my
Latin tags--I, too, have walked on the white road to Caerleon.
* * * * *
To walk a little faster, to comply, in fact, with the request of the
whiting in Lewis Carroll’s beautiful Idyll, the end of 1884 and the
beginning of 1885 found me in something of a backwater. “The Anatomy
of Tobacco,” the book I had written in the 10 by 6 cell in Clarendon
Road, Notting Hill Gate, had been published in the autumn of 1884,
and soon after I had set about the translating of the “Heptameron.”
Every evening I worked at this task till it was ended; and now it
was done, and there seemed nothing to do next. I wandered up and
down the country about Llanddewi Rectory in my old way, lost myself
in networks of deep lanes, coming out of them to view woods that
were strange and the prospect of hills that guarded undiscovered
lands. Thus on my wider and more prolonged travels, but I had haunts
near home, nooks and retreats where nobody ever came. There was an
unfrequented lane, very dark, very deep, that led from a hamlet
called Common Cefn Llwyn--the Ridge of the Grove--to Llanfrechfa,
used scarcely at all save by labouring men going to their work in
the early morning and returning in the evening. All the length of
this lane there was only one house in sight--the farms in Gwent are
mostly in the heart of the fields, remote even from the by-ways--and
this one house must have fallen into ruin eighty or a hundred years
ago. From what remained one judged that it had been the _petit
manoir_ of some dead and forgotten race of little squires; it was
of grey stone, of fifteenth-century workmanship, and the corbels
supporting the chimney were still sound and clean cut. All about
the old broken house were the ruins of the garden, apple trees and
plum trees run wild, hedges that had become brakes, a confusion of
degenerate flowers; and by the tumbledown stile that led to this
deserted place I would linger for an hour or more, wondering and
dreaming and setting my heart on the hopeless endeavour of letters.
Weather made no difference to my goings; a heavy greatcoat, boots
with soles an inch thick, and leather gaiters up to the knee, made a
wild wet winter’s day a thing to be defied and enjoyed; and indeed I
loved to get abroad on such days and see all the wells of the hills
overflowing and rushing down to swell the Soar or the Canthwr, red
and foaming, and making whirlpools of barmy froth as they fell into
the brooks. And then, when the rain changed to snow, what a delight
to stand on some high, lonely place and look out on the wide, white
land, and on the hills where the dark pines stood in a ring about
some ancient farm: to see the wonder of the icy sunlight, of the
violet winter sky. These were my great adventures, and I know not
whether in reality there are any greater, since it is a great thing