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time we took passage northward for St. Louis in the "Pride of the West"
steamer, which left her wharf just at dusk. My brother was unwell,
and lay in his berth from the moment we left till the next morning; he
seem'd to me to be in a fever, and I felt alarm'd. However, the next
morning he was all right again, much to my relief.
Our voyage up the Mississippi was after the same sort as the voyage,
some months before, down it. The shores of this great river are very
monotonous and dull--one continuous and rank flat, with the exception of
a meagre stretch of bluff, about the neighborhood of Natchez,
Memphis, &c. Fortunately we had good weather, and not a great crowd of
passengers, though the berths were all full. The "Pride" jogg'd along
pretty well, and put us into St. Louis about noon Saturday. After
looking around a little I secured passage on the steamer "Prairie Bird,"
(to leave late in the afternoon,) bound up the Illinois river to La
Salle, where we were to take canal for Chicago. During the day I rambled
with my brother over a large portion of the town, search'd after a
refectory, and, after much trouble, succeeded in getting some dinner.
Our "Prairie Bird" started out at dark, and a couple of hours after
there was quite a rain and blow, which made them haul in along shore
and tie fast. We made but thirty miles the whole night. The boat was
excessively crowded with passengers, and had withal so much freight that
we could hardly turn around. I slept on the floor, and the night was
uncomfortable enough. The Illinois river is spotted with little villages
with big names, Marseilles, Naples, etc.; its banks are low, and the
vegetation excessively rank. Peoria, some distance up, is a pleasant
town; I went over the place; the country back is all rich land, for sale
cheap. Three or four miles from P., land of the first quality can be
bought for $3 or $4 an acre. (I am transcribing from my notes written at
the time.)
Arriving at La Salle Tuesday morning, we went on board a canal-boat, had
a detention by sticking on a mud bar, and then jogg'd along at a slow
trot, some seventy of us, on a moderate-sized boat. (If the weather
hadn't been rather cool, particularly at night, it would have been
insufferable.) Illinois is the most splendid agricultural country I ever
saw; the land is of surpassing richness; the place par excellence for
farmers. We stopt at various points along the canal, some of them pretty
villages.
It was 10 o'clock A.M. when we got in Chicago, too late for the steamer;
so we went to an excellent public house, the "American Temperance," and
I spent the time that day and till next morning, looking around Chicago.
At 9 the next forenoon we started on the "Griffith" (on board of which I
am now inditing these memoranda,) up the blue waters of Lake Michigan.
I was delighted with the appearance of the towns along Wisconsin. At
Milwaukee I went on shore, and walk'd around the place. They say the
country back is beautiful and rich. (It seems to me that if we should
ever remove from Long Island, Wisconsin would be the proper place to
come to.) The towns have a remarkable appearance of good living, without
any penury or want. The country is so good naturally, and labor is in
such demand.
About 5 o'clock one afternoon I heard the cry of "a woman over-board."
It proved to be a crazy lady, who had become so from the loss of her
son a couple of weeks before. The small boat put off, and succeeded in
picking her up, though she had been in the water 15 minutes. She was
dead. Her husband was on board. They went off at the next stopping
place. While she lay in the water she probably recover'd her reason, as
she toss'd up her arms and lifted her face toward the boat.
_Sunday Morning, June 11_.--We pass'd down Lake Huron yesterday and last
night, and between 4 and 5 o'clock this morning we ran on the "flats,"
and have been vainly trying, with the aid of a steam tug and a lumbering
lighter, to get clear again. The day is beautiful and the water clear
and calm. Night before last we stopt at Mackinaw, (the island and
town,) and I went up on the old fort, one of the oldest stations in
the Northwest. We expect to get to Buffalo by to-morrow. The tug has
fasten'd lines to us, but some have been snapt and the others have no
effect. We seem to be firmly imbedded in the sand. (With the exception
of a larger boat and better accommodations, it amounts to about the
same thing as a becalmment I underwent on the Montauk voyage, East
Long Island, last summer.) _Later_.--We are off again--expect to reach
Detroit before dinner.
We did not stop at Detroit. We are now on Lake Erie, jogging along at
a good round pace. A couple of hours since we were on the river above.
Detroit seem'd to me a pretty place and thrifty. I especially liked
the looks of the Canadian shore opposite and of the little village
of Windsor, and, indeed, all along the banks of the river. From the
shrubbery and the neat appearance of some of the cottages, I think it
must have been settled by the French. While I now write we can see a
little distance ahead the scene of the battle between Perry's fleet and
the British during the last war with England. The lake looks to me a
fine sheet of water. We are having a beautiful day.
_June 12_.--We stopt last evening at Cleveland, and though it was dark,
I took the opportunity of rambling about the place; went up in the heart
of the city and back to what appear'd to be the courthouse. The streets
are unusually wide, and the buildings appear to be substantial and
comfortable. We went down through Main street and found, some distance
along, several squares of ground very prettily planted with trees and
looking attractive enough. Return'd to the boat by way of the lighthouse
on the hill.
This morning we are making for Buffalo, being, I imagine, a little more
than half across Lake Erie. The water is rougher than on Michigan or
Huron. (On St. Clair it was smooth as glass.) The day is bright and dry,
with a stiff head wind.
We arriv'd in Buffalo on Monday evening; spent that night and a portion
of next day going round the city exploring. Then got in the cars and
went to Niagara; went under the falls--saw the whirlpool and all the
other sights.
Tuesday night started for Albany; travel'd all night. From the time
daylight afforded us a view of the country all seem'd very rich and well
cultivated. Every few miles were large towns or villages.
Wednesday late we arriv'd at Albany. Spent the evening in exploring.
There was a political meeting (Hunker) at the capitol, but I pass'd
it by. Next morning I started down the Hudson in the "Alida;" arriv'd
safely in New York that evening.
_From the New Orleans Picayune, Jan. 25, 1887._
SMALL MEMORANDA
_Thousands lost--here one or two preserv'd_
ATTORNEY GENERAL'S OFFICE, _Washington, Aug. 22, 1865_.--As I write
this, about noon, the suite of rooms here is fill'd with Southerners,
standing in squads, or streaming in and out, some talking with
the Pardon Clerk, some waiting to see the Attorney General, others
discussing in low tones among themselves. All are mainly anxious about
their pardons. The famous 13th exception of the President's Amnesty
Proclamation of ----, makes it necessary that every secessionist, whose
property is worth $20,000 or over, shall get a special pardon, before he
can transact any legal purchase, sale, &c. So hundreds and thousands of
such property owners have either sent up here, for the last two months,
or have been, or are now coming personally here, to get their pardons.
They are from Virginia, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, North and South
Carolina, and every Southern State. Some of their written petitions are
very abject. Secession officers of the rank of Brigadier General, or
higher, also need these special pardons. They also come here. I see
streams of the $20,000 men, (and some women,) every day. I talk now and
then with them, and learn much that is interesting and significant. All
the southern women that come (some splendid specimens, mothers, &c.) are
dress'd in deep black.
Immense numbers (several thousands) of these pardons have been pass'd
upon favorably; the Pardon Warrants (like great deeds) have been issued
from the State Department, on the requisition of this office. But for
some reason or other, they nearly all yet lie awaiting the President's
signature. He seems to be in no hurry about it, but lets them wait.
The crowds that come here make a curious study for me. I get along, very
sociably, with any of them--as I let them do all the talking; only now
and then I have a long confab, or ask a suggestive question or two.
If the thing continues as at present, the property and wealth of the
Southern States is going to legally rest, for the future, on these
pardons. Every single one is made out with the condition that the
grantee shall respect the abolition of slavery, and never make an
attempt to restore it.
_Washington, Sept. 8, 9, &c., 1865_.--The arrivals, swarms, &c., of the
$20,000 men seeking pardons, still continue with increas'd numbers and
pertinacity. I yesterday (I am a clerk in the U. S. Attorney General's
office here) made out a long list from Alabama, nearly 200, recommended
for pardon by the Provisional Governor. This list, in the shape of a
requisition from the Attorney General, goes to the State Department.
There the Pardon Warrants are made out, brought back here, and then sent
to the President, where they await his signature. He is signing them
very freely of late.
The President, indeed, as at present appears, has fix'd his mind on a
very generous and forgiving course toward the return'd secessionists.
He will not countenance at all the demand of the extreme Philo-African
element of the North, to make the right of negro voting at elections a
condition and sine qua non of the reconstruction of the United States
south, and of their resumption of co-equality in the Union.
A GLINT INSIDE OF ABRAHAM LINCOLN'S CABINET APPOINTMENTS. ONE ITEM OF
MANY.
While it was hanging in suspense who should be appointed Secretary of
the Interior, (to take the place of Caleb Smith,) the choice was very
close between Mr. Harlan and Col. Jesse K. Dubois, of Illinois. The
latter had many friends. He was competent, he was honest, and he was a
man. Mr. Harlan, in the race, finally gain'd the Methodist interest, and
got himself to be consider'd as identified with it; and his appointment
was apparently ask'd for by that powerful body. Bishop Simpson, of
Philadephia, came on and spoke for the selection. The President was
much perplex'd. The reasons for appointing Col. Dubois were very strong,
almost insuperable--yet the argument for Mr. Harlan, under the adroit
position he had plac'd himself, was heavy. Those who press'd him adduc'd
the magnitude of the Methodists as a body, their loyalty, more general
and genuine than any other sect--that they represented the West, and
had a right to be heard--that all or nearly all the other great
denominations had their representatives in the heads of the
government--that they as a body and the great sectarian power of the
West, formally ask'd Mr. Harlan's appointment--that he was of them,
having been a Methodist minister--that it would not do to offend them,
but was highly necessary to propitiate them.
Mr. Lincoln thought deeply over the whole matter. He was in more than
usual tribulation on the subject. Let it be enough to say that though
Mr. Harlan finally receiv'd the Secretaryship, Col. Dubois came as near
being appointed as a man could, and not be. The decision was finally
made one night about 10 o'clock. Bishop Simpson and other clergymen
and leading persons in Mr. Harlan's behalf, had been talking long and