Selections from the Writings of Kierkegaard
husband and yet on the sly seduce every girl; to seem a seducer and
yet harbor within one all the ardor of romanticism--there would be
something to that, for the concession in the first instance were
then annihilated in the second. Certain it is that man finds his
true ideality only in such a reduplication. All merely unconscious
existence must be obliterated, and its obliteration ever cunningly
guarded by some sham expression. Such a reduplication is incomprehensible
to woman, for it removes from her the possibility of expressing man's
true nature in one term. If it were, possible for woman to exist in
such a reduplication, no erotic relation with her were thinkable. But,
her nature being such as we all know it to be, any disturbance of the
erotic relation is brought about by man's true nature which ever
consists precisely in the annihilation of that in which she has
her being.
Am I then preaching the monastic life and rightly called Eremita? By
no means. You may as well eliminate the cloister, for after all it
is only a direct expression of spirituality and as such but a vain
endeavor to express it in direct terms. It makes small difference
whether you use gold, or silver, or paper money; but he who does not
spend a farthing but is counterfeit, he will comprehend me. He
to whom every direct expression is but a fraud, he and he only,
is safeguarded better than if he lived in a cloister-cell--he
will be a hermit even if he travelled in an omnibus day and night.
Scarcely had Victor finished when the Dressmaker jumped to his feet
and threw over a bottle of wine standing before him; then he spoke
as follows:
(The Dressmaker's Speech)
Well spoken, dear fellow-banqueters, well spoken! The longer I hear
you speak the more I grow convinced that you are fellow-conspirators--I
greet you as such, I understand you as such; for fellow-conspirators
one can make out from afar. And yet, what know you? What does your
bit of theory to which you wish to give the appearance of experience,
your bit of experience which you make over into a theory--what does
it amount to? For every now and then you believe her a moment
and--are caught in a moment! No, I know woman--from her weak side,
that is to say, I know her. I shrink from no means to make sure about
what I have learned; for I am a madman, and a madman one must be to
understand her, and if one has not been one before, one will become
a madman, once one understands her. The robber has his hiding place
by the noisy high-road, and the ant-lion his funnel in the loose
sand, and the pirate his haunts by the roaring sea: likewise have
I may fashion-shop in the very midst of the teeming streets, seductive,
irresistible to woman as is the Venusberg to men. There, in a
fashion-shop, one learns to know woman, in a practical way and
without any theoretical ado.
Now, if fashion meant nothing than that woman in the heat of her
desire threw off all her clothing--why, then it would stand for
something. But this is not the case, fashion is not plain sensuality,
not tolerated debauchery, but an illicit trade in indecency authorized
as proper. And, just as in heathen Prussia the marriageable girl
wore a bell whose ringing served as a signal to the men, likewise
is a woman's existence in fashion a continual bell-ringing, not
for debauchees but for lickerish voluptuaries. People hold Fortune
to be a woman--ah, yes it is, to be sure, fickle; still, it is fickle
in something, as it may also give much; and insofar it is not a
woman. No; but fashion is a woman, for fashion is fickleness in
nonsense, and is consistent only in its becoming ever more crazy.
One hour in my shop is worth more than days and years without, if
it really be one's desire to learn to know woman; in my shop, for
it is the only one in the capital, there is no thought of competition.
Who, forsooth, would dare to enter into competition with one who
has entirely devoted himself, and is still devoting himself, as
high-priest in this idol worship? No, there is not a distinguished
assemblage which does not mention my name first and last; and
there is not a middle-class gathering where my name, whenever
mentioned, does not inspire sacred awe, like that of the king;
and there is no dress so idiotic but is accompanied by whispers
of admiration when its owner proceeds down the hall--provided
it bears my name; and there is not the lady of gentle birth who
dares pass my shop by, nor the girl of humble origin but passes
it sighing and thinking: if only I could afford it! Well, neither
was she deceived. I deceive no one; I furnish the finest goods
and the most costly, and at the lowest price, indeed, I sell
below cost. The fact is, I do not wish to make a profit. On the
contrary, every year I sacrifice large sums. And yet do I mean
to win, I mean to, I shall spend my last farthing in order to
corrupt, in order to bribe, the tools of fashion so that I may
win the game. To me it is a delight beyond compare to unroll
the most precious stuffs, to cut them out, to clip pieces from
genuine Brussels-lace, in order to make a fool's costume--I sell
to the lowest prices, genuine goods and in style.
You believe, perhaps, that woman wants to be dressed fashionably
only at certain times? No such thing, she wants to be so all the
time and that is her only thought. For a woman does have a mind,
only it is employed about as well as is the Prodigal Son's substance;
and woman does possess the power of reflection in an incredibly high
degree, for there is nothing so holy but she will in no time
discover it to be reconcilable with her finery--and the chiefest
expression of finery is fashion. What wonder if she does discover
it to be reconcilable; for is not fashion holy to her? And there
is nothing so insignificant but she certainly will know how to
make it count in her finery--and the most fatuous expression of
finery is fashion. And there is nothing, nothing in all her attire,
not the least ribbon, of whose relation to fashion she has not a
definite conception and concerning which she is not immediately
aware whether the lady who just passed by noticed it; because,
for whose benefit does she dress, if not for other ladies!
Even in my shop where she comes to be fitted out _à la mode_,
even there she is in fashion. Just as there is a special bathing
costume and a special riding habit, likewise there is a particular
kind of dress which it is the fashion to wear to the dressmaker's
shop. That costume is not _insouciant_ in the same sense as is
the negligée a lady is pleased to be surprised in, earlier in the
forenoon, where the point is her belonging to the fair sex and
the coquetry lies in her letting herself be surprised. The dressmaker
costume, on the other hand, is calculated to be nonchalant and a
bit careless without her being embarrassed thereby; because a
dressmaker stands in a different relation to her from a cavalier.
The coquetry here consists in thus showing herself to a man who,
by reason of his station, does not presume to ask for the lady's
womanly recognition, but must be content with the perquisites
which fall abundantly to his share, without her ever thinking
of it; or without it even so much as entering her mind to play
the lady before a dressmaker. The point is, therefore, that her
being of the opposite sex is, in a certain sense, left out of
consideration, and her coquetry invalidated, by the superciliousness
of the noble lady who would smile if any one alluded to any
relation existing between her and her dressmaker. When visited
in her negligée she conceals herself, thus displaying her charms
by this very concealment. In my shop she exposes her charms with
the utmost nonchalance, for he is only a dressmaker--and she is
a woman. Now, her shawl slips down and bares some part of her
body, and if I did not know what that means, and what she expects,
my reputation would be gone to the winds. Now, she draws herself
up, _a priori_ fashion, now she gesticulates _a posteriori_;
now, she sways to and fro in her hips; now, she looks at herself
in the mirror and sees my admiring phiz behind her in the glass;
now, she minces her words; now, she trips along with short steps;
now, she hovers; now, she draws her foot after her in a slovenly
fashion; now, she lets herself sink softly into an arm-chair,
whilst I with humble demeanor offer her a flask of smelling salts
and with my adoration assuage her agitation; now, she strikes
after me playfully; now, she drops her handkerchief and, without
as much as a single motion, lets her relaxed arm remain in its
pendent position, whilst I bend down low to pick it up and return
it to her, receiving a little patronizing nod as a reward. These
are the ways of a lady of fashion when in my shop. Whether Diogenes[44]
made any impression on the woman who was praying in a somewhat
unbecoming posture, when he asked her whether she did not believe
the gods could see her from behind--that I do not know; but
this I do know, that if I should say to her ladyship kneeling
down in church: "The folds of your gown do not fall according
to fashion," she would be more alarmed than if she had given
offense to the gods. Woe to the outcast, the male Cinderella,
who has not comprehended this! _Pro dii immortales_,[45] what,
pray, is a woman who is not in fashion; _per deos obsecro_,[46]
and what when she is in fashion!
Whether all this is true? Well, make trial of it: let the swain,
when his beloved one sinks rapturously on his breast, whispering
unintelligibly: "thine forever," and hides her head on his bosom--let
him but say to, her: "My sweet Kitty, your coiffure is not at
all in fashion."--Possibly, men don't give thought to this; but he
who knows it, and has the reputation of knowing it, he is the most
dangerous man in the kingdom. What blissful hours the lover passes
with his sweetheart before marriage I do not know; but of the
blissful hours she spends in my shop he hasn't the slightest
inkling, either. Without my special license and sanction a marriage
is null and void, anyway--or else an entirely plebeian affair. Let
it be the very moment when they are to meet before the altar, let
her step forward with the very best conscience in the world that
everything was bought in my shop and tried on there--and now, if
I were to rush up and exclaim: "But mercy! gracious lady, your
myrtle wreath is all awry"--why, the whole ceremony might be
postponed, for aught I know. But men do not suspect these things,
one must be a dressmaker to know.
So immense is the power of reflection needed to fathom a woman's
thought that only a man who dedicates himself wholly to the task
will succeed, and even then only if gifted to start with. Happy
therefore the man who does not associate with any woman, for she
is not his, anyway, even if she be no other man's; for she is
possessed by that phantom born of the unnatural intercourse of
woman's reflection with itself, fashion. Do you see, for this
reason should woman always swear by fashion--then were there
some force in her oath; for after all, fashion is the thing she
is always thinking of, the only thing she can think together with,
and into, everything. For instance, the glad message has gone
forth from my shop to all fashionable ladies that fashion decrees
the use of a particular kind of head-dress to be worn in church,
and that this head-dress, again, must be somewhat different for
High Mass and for the afternoon service. Now when the bells are
ringing the carriage stops in front of my door. Her ladyship
descends (for also this has been decreed, that no one can adjust
that head-dress save I, the fashion-dealer), I rush out, making
low bows, and lead her into my cabinet. And whilst she languishingly
reposes I put everything in order. Now she is ready and has looked