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The Riddle of the Sands

Erskine Childers

The steamer backed her paddles, flinging out a wash that set us rolling to our scuppers. There seemed to be very few passengers aboard, but all of them were gazing at the _Dulcibella_ while the packet was warped alongside. On the forward deck there were some market-women with baskets, a postman, and a weedy youth who might be an hotel-waiter; on the after-deck, standing close together, were two men in ulsters and soft felt hats. “There he is!” said Davies, in a tense whisper; “the tall one.” But the tall one turned abruptly as Davies spoke and strode away behind the deck-house, leaving me just a lightning impression of a grey beard and a steep tanned forehead, behind a cloud of cigar-smoke. It was perverse of me, but, to tell the truth, I hardly missed him, so occupied was I by the short one, who remained leaning on the rail, thoughtfully contemplating the _Dulcibella_ through gold-rimmed pince-nez: a sallow, wizened old fellow, beetlebrowed, with a bush of grizzled moustache and a jet-black tuft of beard on his chin. The most remarkable feature was the nose, which was broad and flat, merging almost imperceptibly in the wrinkled cheeks. Lightly beaked at the nether extremity, it drooped towards an enormous cigar which was pointing at us like a gun just discharged. He looked wise as Satan, and you would say he was smiling inwardly. “Who’s that?” I whispered to Davies. (There was no need to talk in whispers, but we did so instinctively.) “Can’t think,” said Davies. “Hullo! she’s backing off, and they’ve not landed.” Some parcels and mail-bags had been thrown up, and the weedy waiter and two market-women had gone up the gangway, which was now being hauled up, and were standing on the quay. I think one or two other persons had first come aboard unnoticed by us, but at the last moment a man we had not seen before jumped down to the forward deck. “Grimm!” we both ejaculated at once. The steamer whistled sharply, circled backwards into the roadstead, and then steamed away. The pier soon hid her, but her smoke showed she was steering towards the North Sea. “What does this mean?” I asked. “There must be some other quay to stop at nearer the town,” said Davies. “Let’s go ashore and get your letters.” We had made a long and painful toilette that morning, and felt quite shy of one another as we sculled towards the pier, in much-creased blue suits, conventional collars, and brown boots. It was the first time for two years that I had seen Davies in anything approaching a respectable garb; but a fashionable watering-place, even in the dead season, exacts respect; and, besides, we had friends to visit. We tied up the dinghy to an iron ladder, and on the pier found our inquisitor of the night before smoking in the doorway of a shed marked “Harbour Master”. After some civilities we inquired about the steamer. The answer was that it was Saturday, and she had, therefore, gone on to Juist. Did we want a good hotel? The “Vier Jahreszeiten” was still open, etc. “Juist, by Jove!” said Davies, as we walked on. “Why are those three going to Juist?” “I should have thought it was pretty clear. They’re on their way to Memmert.” Davies agreed, and we both looked longingly westward at a straw-coloured streak on the sea. “Is it some meeting, do you think?” said Davies. “Looks like it. We shall probably find the _Kormoran_ here, wind-bound.” And find her we did soon after, the outermost of the stack of galliots, on the farther side of the harbour. Two men, whose faces we took a good look at, were sitting on her hatch, mending a sail. Flooded with sun, yet still as the grave, the town was like a dead butterfly for whom the healing rays had come too late. We crossed some deserted public gardens commanded by a gorgeous casino, its porticos heaped with chairs and tables; so past kiosques and _cafés,_ great white hotels with boarded windows, bazaars and booths, and all the stale lees of vulgar frivolity, to the post-office, which at least was alive. I received a packet of letters and purchased a local time-table, from which we learned that the steamer sailed daily to Borkum _via_ Norderney, touching three times a week at Juist (weather permitting). On the return journey to-day it was due at Norderney at 7.30 p.m. Then I inquired the way to the “Vier Jahreszeiten”. “For whatever your principles, Davies,” I said, “we are going to have the best breakfast money can buy! We’ve got the whole day before us.” The “Four Seasons” Hotel was on the esplanade facing the northern beach. Living up to its name, it announced on an illuminated signboard, “Inclusive terms for winter visitors; special attention to invalids, etc.” Here in a great glass restaurant, with the unruffled blue of ocean spread out before us, we ate the king of breakfasts, dismissed the waiter, and over long and fragrant Havanas examined my mail at leisure. “What a waste of good diplomacy!” was my first thought, for nothing had been tampered with, so far as we could judge from the minutest scrutiny, directed, of course, in particular to the franked official letters (for to my surprise there were two) from Whitehall. The first in order of date (October 6) ran: “Dear Carruthers.—Take another week by all means.—Yours, etc.” The second (marked “urgent”) had been sent to my home address and forwarded. It was dated October 15, and cancelled the previous letter, requesting me to return to London without delay—“I am sorry to abridge your holiday, but we are very busy, and, at present, short-handed.—Yours, etc.” There was a dry postscript to the effect that another time I was to be good enough to leave more regular and definite information as to my whereabouts when absent. “I’m afraid I never got this!” I said, handing it to Davies. “You won’t go, will you?” said he, looking, nevertheless, with unconcealed awe at the great man’s handwriting under the haughty official crest. Meanwhile I discovered an endorsement on a corner of the envelope: “Don’t worry; it’s only the chief’s fuss.—M——” I promptly tore up the envelope. There are domestic mysteries which it would be indecent and disloyal to reveal, even to one’s best friend. The rest of my letters need no remark; I smiled over some and blushed over others—all were voices from a life which was infinitely far away. Davies, meanwhile, was deep in the foreign intelligence of a newspaper, spelling it out line by line, and referring impatiently to me for the meaning of words. “Hullo!” he said, suddenly; “same old game! Hear that siren?” A curtain of fog had grown on the northern horizon and was drawing shorewards slowly but surely. “It doesn’t matter, does it?” I said. “Well, we must get back to the yacht. We can’t leave her alone in the fog.” There was some marketing to be done on the way back, and in the course of looking for the shops we wanted we came on the Schwannallée and noted its position. Before we reached the harbour the fog was on us, charging up the streets in dense masses. Happily a tramline led right up to the pier-head, or we should have lost our way and wasted time, which, in the event, was of priceless value. Presently we stumbled up against the Harbour Office, which was our landmark for the steps where we had tied up the dinghy. The same official appeared and good-naturedly held the painter while we handed in our parcels. He wanted to know why we had left the flesh-pots of the “Vier Jahreszeiten”. To look after our yacht, of course. There was no need, he objected; there would be no traffic moving while the fog lasted, and the fog, having come on at that hour, had come to stay. If it did clear he would keep an eye on the yacht for us. We thanked him, but thought we would go aboard. “You’ll have a job to find her now,” he said. The distance was eighty yards at the most, but we had to use a scientific method, the same one, in fact, that Davies had used last night in the approach to the eastern pier. “Row straight out at right angles to the pier,” he said now. I did so, Davies sounding with his scull between the strokes. He found the bottom after twenty yards, that being the width of the dredged-out channel at this point. Then we turned to the right, and moved gently forward, keeping touch with the edge of the mud-bank (for all the world like blind men tapping along a kerbstone) and taking short excursions from it, till the _Dulcibella_ hove in view. “That’s partly luck,” Davies commented; “we ought to have had the compass as well.” We exchanged shouts with the man on the pier to show we had arrived. Illustration: Chart B of Juist, Memmert, and Part of Norderney “It’s very good practice, that sort of thing,” said Davies, when we had disembarked. “You’ve got a sixth sense,” I observed. “How far could you go like that?” “Don’t know. Let’s have another try. I can’t sit still all day. Let’s explore this channel.” “_Why not go to Memmert?”_ I said, in fun. “To Memmert?” said Davies, slowly; “by Jove! that’s an idea!” “Good Heavens, man! I was joking. Why, it’s ten mortal miles.” “More,” said Davies, absently. “It’s not so much the distance—what’s the time? Ten fifteen; quarter ebb—— What am I talking about? We made our plans last night.” But seeing him, to my amazement, serious, I was stung by the splendour of the idea I had awakened. Confidence in his skill was second nature to me. I swept straight on to the logic of the thing, the greatness, the completeness of the opportunity, if by a miracle it could be seized and used. Something was going on at Memmert to-day; our men had gone there; here were we, ten miles away, in a smothering, blinding fog. It was known we were here—Dollmann and Grimm knew it; the crew of the _Medusa_ knew it; the crew of the _Kormoran_ knew it; the man on the pier, whether he cared or not, knew it. But none of them knew Davies as I knew him. Would anyone dream for an instant——? “Stop a second,” said Davies; “give me two minutes.” He whipped out the German chart. “Where exactly should we go?” (“Exactly!” The word tickled me hugely.) “To the depôt, of course; it’s our only chance.” “Listen then—there are two routes: the outside one by the open sea, right round Juist, and doubling south—the simplest, but the longest; the depôt’s at the south point of Memmert, and Memmert’s nearly two miles long.” _[See Chart B]_ “How far would that way be?” “Sixteen miles good. And we should have to row in a breaking swell most of the way, close to land.” “Out of the question; it’s too public, too, if it clears. The steamer went that way, and will come back that way. We must go inside over the sands. Am I dreaming, though? Can you possibly find the way?” “I shouldn’t wonder. But I don’t believe you see the hitch. It’s the _time_ and the falling tide. High water was about 8.15: it’s now 10.15, and all those sands are drying off. We must cross the See Gat and strike that boomed channel, the Memmert Balje; strike it, freeze on to it—can’t cut off an inch—and pass that ‘watershed’ you see there before it’s too late. It’s an infernally bad one, I can see. Not even a dinghy will cross it for an hour each side of low water.” “Well, how far is the ‘watershed’?” “Good Lord! What are we talking for? Change, man, change! Talk while we’re changing.” (He began flinging off his shore clothes, and I did the same.) “It’s at least five miles to the end of it; six, allowing for bends; hour and a half hard pulling; two, allowing for checks. Are you fit? You’ll have to pull the most. Then there are six or seven more miles—easier ones. And then—What are we to do when we get there?” “Leave that to me,” I said. “You get me there.” “Supposing it clears?” “After we get there? Bad; but we must risk that. If it clears on the